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Does your epas setup do this??



RuskiWeldFab

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172, RS4 B7
Cool! Yeah tests needed first, when you turn the car on for the first time it could start spinning lock to lock really quick and take your hand out or something :oops:

Hahha it’s not PlayStation [emoji23]


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Eddie555

ClioSport Club Member
  Q7 2018 & 172 Cup.
@pule333 Have you seen the quick release I had? It was a rapfix, zero play, it locates with ball bearings that are being pushed by springs so as/if things start to wear the spring just push the ball more to slacken up the gap (there is no gap)

How about a deal you can have the rapfix if you weld and wire in a 197 column for me? :unsure:
You better get in the queue mate.. I'll be first in line thank you.. [emoji23]

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Another socket ordered (41mm) This is for the nut that holds the worm gear in as Im having difficulty putting the column back into the housing, perhaps just a wack but not keen. Will take the worm gear out first then see from there, Im not sure what could be causing the problem, I think the main gear on the column has shifted somehow which is causing a binding on the worm gear, I have no clue what the official names for them are!
Should I get a 197 column so I can have a look inside...:unsure:
 

RuskiWeldFab

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172, RS4 B7
Another socket ordered (41mm) This is for the nut that holds the worm gear in as Im having difficulty putting the column back into the housing, perhaps just a wack but not keen. Will take the worm gear out first then see from there, Im not sure what could be causing the problem, I think the main gear on the column has shifted somehow which is causing a binding on the worm gear, I have no clue what the official names for them are!
Should I get a 197 column so I can have a look inside...:unsure:

Yes please!!! I didn’t have a nerve to disassemble mine [emoji12] wanna see what’s inside!


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7E269004-3670-4751-BE1B-3A40658DE3E5.jpeg

A3EB8025-7584-4B19-9ECB-3774195F8AA4.jpeg
719D0B34-98C1-4C9E-B3AF-BA5BC0B0443C.jpeg


looks like the bearing and gear are pressed on, no idea. I think Im going to take apart the one on the car to see if theres any other things that look wrong because that one is real noisy.

I watched a video on a modern lexus column with electronic postion adjustments and its a similar concept to this so 197 should be no different.
 
Just put the car back down and the steering is more consistent so there is a result so far, I didnt leave the pre load like in the picture, I done it up a bit more but I was checking the resistance of the rack a lot in different pre loads. Rack is moving slightly and I think that could be the clunks so have ordered the solid bushes, hopefully this rules out that the rack internals are fine also and the pre load is done up enough. Its not the actual column, I took it apart and its solid, what I did find was that the other green sticker column where I said was harder to turn is actually of 'better' health than the blue one, as the blue one does have some wear in the gears so on centre is slightly less resistance than when turned. I dont see how the green one should be like that or any epas column for that matter as that unnecessary extra resistance is taking away power from the motor. Its not an efficient system, the actual internals of the column flex under moderate load as well.
Getting there though, first time doing this work so dont know what to expect but Im eager to know how it works, Ive made a couple mistakes but ultimately the mistakes of the racks that were not my fault has forced me to learn new skills.
 
Fit the solid rack bushes and also tightened up the pre load as to rule out that I hadn’t loosened it too much. Still play and clunks. That’s play in the rack, the bushes have made the rack not move at all
6EA65804-354C-4012-AF0F-BC869277E0E0.jpeg
 
What am I’m doing wrong? The rack goes on in one position only, I drive very considerate to the car, when there are ruts or pot holes I’m very light on the steering, I never force the wheel. When I put all together it’s free moving, uj turns okay. 😕
 
Put the rack back together with the piston or whatever its called on the left, adjusted the pre load until there was no twisting of the rack. Put everything back on the car and couldnt wait until tomorrow to try it out so just got it off the stands and so far......... Its the smoothest its ever turned, the clunking has gone and it turns fairly linear so doesnt lose loads of assistance when turning certain ways, fairly linear as there is still a bit but its much better. Will try it out up and down and the street tomorrow. You could say it wasnt the piston but the pre load, but as seen earlier in this thread, how easy it was to turn. Why would these manual racks be way harder to turn than normal? Is it because of the grease and not pas fluid?
 
Went out again because its on my mind and yeah clunking hasnt gone its just less, did you think this was over? :ROFLMAO: s**t setup and s**t parts, all falls apart like a crumbly biscuit.
 

Filters

Wales - South
ClioSport Area Rep
I don't get why you're having so many issues with the rack mate, as you know I've got the BRT rack. Honestly think your EPAS motor or controller is fudged as mines the same as @scruffydubber

Have you tried a new motor on there yet?
 
I don't get why you're having so many issues with the rack mate, as you know I've got the BRT rack. Honestly think your EPAS motor or controller is fudged as mines the same as @scruffydubber
,,,,,,6
Have you tried a new motor on there yet?

Gotta admit I was over reacting on that last post about it still being buggered lol.

I had to go out yesterday and can confirm that it is in fact fixed. I think that the end seal going originally as per another thread I made screwed things up a bit. But its fixed now anyway, Ive never worked on a rack before so diagnosing problems is completely unknown. Another job to tick off the list!
 

Eddie555

ClioSport Club Member
  Q7 2018 & 172 Cup.
Omg.. That would give me sleepless nights

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