Doing the timing belt myself on 182?

[markt8]

I'm considering doing my own timing belt on my 182, but read that these are horrible to do and autodata is listing 6hrs, I'm wondering whats hard about them? ive done Vauxhall chains and belts for instance the 1.3 cdti with a floating crank and no timing marks ive done several of them myself. I can lend the timing tools so not a problem there.

Is it hard to do because the Renault engine has no timing marks that makes it hard compared to other engines? Next question is do I need both cam locking tools 100% and whats the need in the timing belt side cam locking tool, does the dephaser need timed using this as I need to do dephaser aswell or is this not timed just the cams timed at gearbox side?

Cheers
Mark

 

[DannyR]

Firstly, if your questioning it give it to a specialist.

Secondly, Autodata's method is wrong.

Thirdly, yes of course you need all the tools, they wouldn't make one if you didn't need it.

Fourthly, search for everyone else who asked about doing it themselves, did it, never replied again...

 

[markt8]

Yes but most people that ask haven't done timing belts before, im all for doing it just wondering why I would need to lock the cams at both ends and why everyone else says it should be done by a specialist?

 

[DannyR]

Yes, most have, or at least say they have.

You need the horseshoe to lock the cams and need the pulley side one to time it back up, as well as the locking pin to lock the crank.

 

[dangerous dave]

i hadn't done one so I decided why not do 2 and chase it up with a 225 after..

It can be done and you have only fked up when you cant get the horseshoe in and decide, that'll do... You try again, tweek you method of taking the tension out the belt, fitting the tools etc...

When you horse shoe slots in, your done..

Honestly I don't understand the drama...

 

[masekwm]

I've done belts on the 1.9 8v 205 Gti engine & the GTi6 engine.
I wouldn't touch the Clio one. Little access, need the timing to be bang on, etc. Give it to a specialist and drink some coffee whilst they do it.

 

[NorthloopCup]

You need to lock the cams with the horseshoe tool to get them in the correct timing position. The pulley locking tool is there to stop you bending the horseshoe locking tool, or worse, snapping the lugs on the end of the cams. Seen it done. Laughed. Wee came out. Finished off with 'told you'.

The pulley locking tool is also there to enable you to undo/tighten the exhaust cam pulley nut and the dephaser pulley bolt. The exhaust pulley nut is especially tight.

In the manual it says you don't need the pulley locking tool if your only changing the belt and not loosening the eh cam or dephaser. I haven't done one where it's all gone back together and lined up properly afterwards, so I've had to re-time it all and loosen the pulley off.

In terms of is it difficult, the simple answer is no it's not. But they are a monumental pain in the f**king arse as space is at a premium and you've got to f**k about jacking the engine up and down. Other than that, I find them very easy. I also have the genuine locking tools as the cheaper ones are a bit soft and bendy.

There's a lot of scare story's on here, but if you have all the right tools and the horseshoe/crank pin locks in after you've tightened up all the pulleys and turned the engine over by hand, you'll be fine. Timing on these engines is critical for them to perform, which is where the others have gone wrong. Because they didn't use the correct tools.

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

^^great post

 

[markt8]

Excellent post cheers mate, I'm not scared of it just wondering why everyone else is and also why the need of 2 cam locking tools which you've answered for me thanks mate

 

[MicKPM]

In the manual it says you don't need the pulley locking tool if your only changing the belt and not loosening the eh cam or dephaser. I haven't done one where it's all gone back together and lined up properly afterwards, so I've had to re-time it all and loosen the pulley off.

The later manuals for the same engine has now removed that option all together as it was s**t, it never worked and just injected further confusion in to doing the job. OP - It's a straight forwards enough job providing you appreciate what it is you're doing and most importantly of all, that you don't try to circumvent the process in any way. Use all tools required, replace all fixings and dial in the fixings as required.

Mick

 

[car.crash]

It's not as hard as everyone makes out.
It's a procedure and if followed correctly then you will be fine.
Correct tools are a must.

 

[MicKPM]

This is what you're aiming for after checking and tensioning:



Mick

 

[markt8]

Thanks for replies lads appreciate it

Mark

 

[dablk]

after a quick chat with @NorthloopCup . I spoke to Paul at renaultpartsdirect who has now changed the cambelt "tool kit" on the website from 3 piece to 4 piece to inc the extra long cog that needs swapping in. I think it added a couple of quid to the price so comes in at £138 delivered. I'm a also interested to try this dark art but will start with just having a check of the current timing on the car without touching anything bar the end seals.

..Pink Clio minus belt to be seen on a transporter probably around spring

 

[Mr Plums]

Change the end seals after taking them off, mine pooped out causing me to run on 1l of oil without me even realising.

 

[dablk]

Cheers MrT..yep, that was nlc's advise too.

 

[Chrisgti6]

Change the end seals after taking them off, mine pooped out causing me to run on 1l of oil without me even realising.

They should be replaced anytime they are removed, that's standard practice (and common sense!)

 

[Mr Plums]

They should be replaced anytime they are removed, that's standard practice (and common sense!)

Mine were but it still managed to pop out

 

[car.crash]

Not sure how. They are a pig to get out and are a perfect fit and need tapping in.

 

[Mr Plums]

Not sure how. They are a pig to get out and are a perfect fit and need tapping in.

I think there's been a problem with excessive pressure myself as the dipstick also used to love showing its lengh.

 

[bloke]

if you lube the edges of them then they will pop back out.

 

[dangerous dave]

I think there's been a problem with excessive pressure myself as the dipstick also used to love showing its lengh.

Totally, excess pressure blew my crank shaft oil seal.. Somethings gonna give..

 

[Rob669]

I hate this thread! It means I have no excuse anymore not to do mine myself.

 

[Mr R.]

You need to lock the cams with the horseshoe tool to get them in the correct timing position. The pulley locking tool is there to stop you bending the horseshoe locking tool, or worse, snapping the lugs on the end of the cams. Seen it done. Laughed. Wee came out. Finished off with 'told you'.

The pulley locking tool is also there to enable you to undo/tighten the exhaust cam pulley nut and the dephaser pulley bolt. The exhaust pulley nut is especially tight.

In the manual it says you don't need the pulley locking tool if your only changing the belt and not loosening the eh cam or dephaser. I haven't done one where it's all gone back together and lined up properly afterwards, so I've had to re-time it all and loosen the pulley off.

In terms of is it difficult, the simple answer is no it's not. But they are a monumental pain in the f**king arse as space is at a premium and you've got to f**k about jacking the engine up and down. Other than that, I find them very easy. I also have the genuine locking tools as the cheaper ones are a bit soft and bendy.

There's a lot of scare story's on here, but if you have all the right tools and the horseshoe/crank pin locks in after you've tightened up all the pulleys and turned the engine over by hand, you'll be fine. Timing on these engines is critical for them to perform, which is where the others have gone wrong. Because they didn't use the correct tools.

Great info there bud. :up:

I just wanted to add one more thing to the OP, you should replace the crankshaft bolt while your at it. :smiley:

(id also replace the oil seals and nuts/dephaser bolt)