Engine not attempting to turnover

[finch wxm]

Installed a replacement interior loom and rear loom as these had been chopped by previous , the immobiliser light wasnt going out and also noticed i wasnt getting engine management light coming on then off. I couldnt hear the fuel pump prime either.

Swapped both looms and immobiliser light goes of with the ignition key and i get the engine management light to come on and off. The fuel pump primes ,I do have a highbeam light constantly on the dash though which i didnt get with the other looms.

The car doesnt even attempt to turnover on the key , just get 1 click and nothing. I checked the cabling to starter motor and the positive to alternator and got it to fire up and start so thought maybe i had a bad connection.

Since then i have had to disconnect the ecu and throttle body etc in order to repair a thread and the car is doing the same thing again , not turning over.

The fact it ran on sunday im thinking there is a bad connection somehwere or break in a whire. It does still have the old crank sensor wiring and sensor , i dont have the electrical fault light on dash or engine management light. My code reader doest give me any codes either.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

So just to be clear, did the car start with the old loom?

and now it doesn't start with the new loom?

 

[finch wxm]

James no it didnt start with the loom that came with the car. It had been chopped out and didnt have a connection for fly by wire , i got a spare loom with my othet clio but noticed the loom connector for the rear loom was different so i bought a interior loom and rear loom of somebody from here.

Its cured afew things up but does have a high beam on the dash when battery is connected.

It just doesnt attempt to turnover but on sunday i just disconnected the starter motor positive and reconnected and also alternator and the car turned over and started.

Afew days later its not trying to start again and i did remove those bits to do the thread but i was confused when i did get it to start.

I was going to remove the starter motor and check thats operating correctly when hooked up to the battery.

 

[finch wxm]

Its definitely either the crank sensor wiring or thermostat sensor as if i disconnect both of them the car then turns over and starts. I do have a new sensor and cabling to try and the temp sensor wiring looks to have been repaired.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Its definitely either the crank sensor wiring or thermostat sensor as if i disconnect both of them the car then turns over and starts. I do have a new sensor and cabling to try and the temp sensor wiring looks to have been repaired.

It shouldn't start with the crank sensor removed 🤔😂

 

[finch wxm]

It shouldn't start with the crank sensor removed 🤔😂

No it doesnt 😂 , i mean i disconnected it and reconnected. Same for the temp sensor so must be a dodgy wire possibly

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

No it doesnt 😂 , i mean i disconnected it and reconnected. Same for the temp sensor so must be a dodgy wire possibly

Ahh yeah.

Go with crank sensor first, as it needs that to even start and tell the fuel pump to send fuel.

Temp sensor only comes into it when the ECU is controling the fueling on cold start (open loop I think)

 

[finch wxm]

Ahh yeah.

Go with crank sensor first, as it needs that to even start and tell the fuel pump to send fuel.

Temp sensor only comes into it when the ECU is controling the fueling on cold start (open loop I think)

Yeah will get it fitted on the weekend , i had to fit one on my old clio

Ahh yeah.

Go with crank sensor first, as it needs that to even start and tell the fuel pump to send fuel.

Temp sensor only comes into it when the ECU is controling the fueling on cold start (open loop I think)

Thats good to know , whats the best method for doing it ! Ive found in the past the renault wire impossible to solder !

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Yeah will get it fitted on the weekend , i had to fit one on my old clio

Thats good to know , whats the best method for doing it ! Ive found in the past the renault wire impossible to solder !

Try either those heatshrink solder butt connectors

or if you have the right crimp tool, the heatshrink crimp butt connectors. They give a solid join and are waterproof once shrunk down.
Arguably better than plain solder and heatshrink, as the solder usually cracks over time with vibration.