ENGINE WORK

[clio_king]

im looking to get some work done on my 1.4rt engine but i cant afford the garage costs, is there anything i get that i can do my self (cams e.t.c).

cheers jamie.

 

[BUTRE]

eheh... Im into it also.
For know Im only working the head. Valves that close with 30 a 33º. A little tweaked cam. Exhaust and intake struture all polished.

All this so that I can have a smooth power going up the rpm.

Im having some problems in geting ths material.

BUTRE

 

[benworley]

King, speak to BenR he knows all about the 1.4RT engine.

 

[steve a]

Yeah ben r can do head work for you.

 

[BenR]

hello all, im back!!

 

[BenR]

what do you mean by 30-33 deg? lobe centre angle? valve seat angle?

 

[BUTRE]

well.. I dont know how to explain it in English... But I can try.

30º to 33º when the valve closes. The area it touches with the head. I think you call it "valve seat".

BenR, Im too far away from England, so I cant get to you my 1.4 energy engine.
Luckly I know the best guy in this country to work on it. The problem is that he only does fiat 600 engine mods unless you give him the things you want him to do.
By this... can you give an idea about what changes must be done so that this engine could gain some more life?

The taking out and putting all together is done by me. "cleaning" and smootering the admin and exhaust head channels are also done by me. The "valve seat" is something that the "fiat 600 man" has to do as the cam reprofile which he is expert in.

If you cant give this kind of information, I understand. Its just that the only too ppl that I know who could give me some hints are from England... BenR and PowerHill. :/

BUTRE

P.S.- damn...

 

[BenR]

no worries mate.

with the valves seats you should get them cut with a 30 degree top cut a 45 deg middle cut and 70 deg bottom cut.

Inlet ports should be a minimum of 75% of the valve diameter for fast road and 80-90% for full race, but low rpm running will be very rough, especially with a wild cam. This is down to the low airspeed at low rpm and fuel suspension in the airstream becomes difficult an you may get pools of fuel at bends. Exhuats ports should be minimum of 80% of the valve diameter, and larger doesnt matter.

manifolds should be matched to the ports in the head. The finish in the inlet should be done with a smooth 80 grit flap wheel.

Exhaust manifold should be bored out as much as possible, and polished if you like....a 4-2-1 manifold is better though, with the longest primary headers you can get.

The ultimte problem will be fuelling. The stick SPI system is poo, and you can upgrade to the 1.8l laguna SPI system....but if you want the best...find a set of twin webber 40dcoes with 36mm venturis. and see if any manifolds fit. If not, get a dcoe manifolds, and cut the bottom mounting points off, tig weld this to the bottom of your existing RT manifold.

If you would like an futher help, email me @ Ching@iamwasted.com.

if you can manage it, cut the valve spring recesses deeper and fit double springs and larger inlet valves...