Everyday 172 track prep (weight loss)

[Dan_Henderson]

Ok so I fancey a few track days this year in my 172 cup but the car is used as a daily so what items could I remove quite quickly and put back in after the track day, I'm swapping the drivers seat to a bucket seat at some point soon

 

[Paprika123]

You don't need to strip it to death to have fun.

 

[Fletcher]

Rear bench, isofix bar.

 

[Tommo.]

No need to do anything IMO.

Just make sure the car is in good order mechanically.

 

[Cub.]

Rear bench, isofix bar.

Fletch is bang on.

Then I'd swap the steering wheel for a 330mm or 300 one (permanent swap for an OMP Trecento or Sabelt jobbie) and get a set of light wheels (15" oz F1's) with some decent tyres (Yoko ADO8s or Toyo 888's etc), up the discs to Brembo HC with decent brake fluid and decent pads, and then go and have fun.

Oh and get the front end suspension (TRE's, bushes etc) refreshed if needed...

 

[Dan_Henderson]

Fletch is bang on.

Then I'd swap the steering wheel for a 330mm or 300 one (permanent swap for an OMP Trecento or Sabelt jobbie) and get a set of light wheels (15" oz F1's) with some decent tyres (Yoko ADO8s or Toyo 888's etc), up the discs to Brembo HC with decent brake fluid and decent pads, and then go and have fun.

Oh and get the front end suspension (TRE's, bushes etc) refreshed if needed...

I plan on doing all of the above mate iv just put some new budget discs and pads on aswell as new budget tyres as I plan on replacing them closer to track day time with good quality items, I was just thinking what is quick and easy to remove to shed a few pounds without much hassle
i bought a dished steering wheel for £10 off a mate the other day but I fancey a sabelt one

 

[Tony Hunter]

Sorry mate, but this is getting done to death atm. And tbqh it's not really worth it. Imo anyway.

 

[Munson]

Just take it out as it is. The only thing worth doing in advance for your first few track days is uprating the front brake pads. Particularly as first timers tend to expect unlimited braking performance.

 

[Dan_Henderson]

I deffo want better discs pads and fluid, the brake fade on these new budget ones are terrible! Half hour of hard driving and the brakes are cooked and shite! Excuse the language

 

[Munson]

IMO brakes are misunderstood by many newbies. Pad fade is normal - hard pedal but reduced stopping power. You can uprate the pads, but this will move the weakest link further up the chain. Eventually you'll boil the fluid, and suffer a longer pedal and virtually no stopping power. You can then use a racing fluid, but even then you'll eventually boil it if you have no concept of temperature management. Then you need to start thinking about active cooling, bigger callipers etc. etc.

It's a slippery slope. I'm not trying to come across as a hero. I'm speaking from experience. For your first few trackdays you really only need uprated pads. If you start having problems then be kinder on your brakes.

 

[Knuckles]

Curl one out first

 

[...]

IMO brakes are misunderstood by many newbies. Pad fade is normal - hard pedal but reduced stopping power. You can uprate the pads, but this will move the weakest link further up the chain. Eventually you'll boil the fluid, and suffer a longer pedal and virtually no stopping power. You can then use a racing fluid, but even then you'll eventually boil it if you have no concept of temperature management. Then you need to start thinking about active cooling, bigger callipers etc. etc.

It's a slippery slope. I'm not trying to come across as a hero. I'm speaking from experience. For your first few trackdays you really only need uprated pads. If you start having problems then be kinder on your brakes.

Everything standard and fresh and working with an uprated pad is spot on.... make sure fluid is not years old and dark

 

[Jekyll]

Have a search mate as this has been covered many times.