Fitting new discs/pads/lines - what order?

[Benny06]

Hi guys,

I'm a total n00b when it comes to changing/faffing with brakes so please bear with me! I have read the guides however lines weren't changed at the same time as the pads/discs were fitted in the guide.

If somebody could confirm the order for me i'd be very grateful.

I have brembo HC discs, DS2500's, Standard Rear Pads, Braided Lines, Fluid, Bleed Kit.

I will also need a selection of spanners 13mm/17mm/19mm I think and also need to purchase some copper grease and brake cleaner (if this is necesary).

Loosen wheel nuts.
Jack up and place on axle stands.
Wheels off.
Engine Cover off so I can access the reservior.
Undo the line into the back of the caliper and remove caliper.
Remove Pads/Shims & clean shims/caliper.
Place shims onto DS2500's with copper grease on the back (filling edges down if necesary) & fit back into caliper.
Remove old front discs & clean hub
Fit Brembo front discs with copper grease behind.
Re-fit caliper.

Same for rears

Fit Lines

Bleed.

Wheels on.

Job done?

For the lines I can just follow the guide however I wanted to know if it'd be best to change the lines first and then the pads/discs or to do the discs/pads first and then lines?

Also upon removing the lines will brake fluid not **** out everywhere? I don;t want the reservior to empty and end up with air in the ABS pump.

Obviously it makes sense to bleed them after everything has changed rather than bleed them after fitting pads/discs and then bleed them again after doing the lines.

It also makes sense to open one of the bleed nipples and let the reservior drain a little bit so that upon bleeding old fluid is flushed and new is drawn through as opposed to ending up with a mix of old/new.

Thats all I can think of for now.

Any other tips or advice from any experiences are welcomed!

Thanks

BennyC

 

[Benny06]

The order in which to bleed 'furthest from the master cylinder working your way back. Guessing this works out as Rear left, rear right, front left, front right?

Edit: Tad confused as the bleed guide has this:

Front passenger
Front Drivers
Back passenger
Back Drivers.

Also is it worth painting round the outer edge of the discs to stop rusting?

 

[Benny06]

Note to self: ditch the shims + file ends of pads slightly.

 

[yee_har]

...
Also upon removing the lines will brake fluid not **** out everywhere? I don;t want the reservior to empty and end up with air in the ABS pump....

BennyC

On a previous car the trick was to push a piece of suitable tubing over the solid pipe and clamp that off with a Mole grips

 

[Soot1e]

:slap:So that is 3 threads you have started on the same subject.

 

[Mr R.]

Always bleed brakes from the furthest point away from the master cylinder :-

Passenger rear.
drivers rear.
passenger front.
drivers front.
If you work quick then the fulid will not run out.

 

[Fred@BTM]

you DO NOT use grease on race pads

 

[Benny06]

I noticed a slight bit of squeal at very low speeds/when pulling up this morning so just now I took the pads out and filled a little more of each end.

However now the squeal is intermitent. Sometimes at around 20mph light breaking, sometimes with heavy braking. Here's a photo to show how much play one of the pads has.

I noticed that the front left pad isn't sat on the end of the carrier closest to the ground but is pushed up against the top edge of the carrier. Is this likely to be it? Hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from when driving.

Should I have pushed the caliper piston back in again before re-fitting the caliper?

 

[Soot1e]

You've fitted them ok, a bit off squeal is to be expected from these pads, don't worry about it.