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Fitting rear camber shims
- Thread starter banhama
- Start date
Have you had the stub axles off before? If not the bolts will be old and ideally should replace them, pure do them as a pack, they're just high tensile countersunk though.
Take the dampers out for easier access as well. Unbolt the calipers so they can be prop'd up, as you might have to file down the surface between the shims.
Take the dampers out for easier access as well. Unbolt the calipers so they can be prop'd up, as you might have to file down the surface between the shims.
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Turn the nut on the rusty bolts, not the torx head. Top tip 😂
just as well I decided to fit the shims, as in the process I found the offside wheel bearing is shot, and the thrust washer is missing, which is probably why the bearing is shot, and in fact is probably why the I went to fit the shims in the first place as the OSR camber read positive on the last alignment check, probably due to where the wobbly wheel settled on the rig, so probably don't need the shims anyway!
Rant over.
I have all the bills from the one and only previous owner, and it looks like she had the rear discs changed in 2013, and for the next 4 years the annual service reported noisy OSR bearings, and she had the discs changed a further 3 times before she sold the car. I guess the washer was lost on the first replacement, and no one since has noticed.
Anyway, I have a race at Lydden Hill next weekend so need to get new disc, no problem, thrust washer, maybe a problem, and then find the time to fit them and do a rough camber check to know if I need any shims, then fit them.
Where will I get the thrust washer quickly, I see RTR do them but haven't dealt with them before. Can't see them on PMS website. Any ideas?
Rant over.
I have all the bills from the one and only previous owner, and it looks like she had the rear discs changed in 2013, and for the next 4 years the annual service reported noisy OSR bearings, and she had the discs changed a further 3 times before she sold the car. I guess the washer was lost on the first replacement, and no one since has noticed.
Anyway, I have a race at Lydden Hill next weekend so need to get new disc, no problem, thrust washer, maybe a problem, and then find the time to fit them and do a rough camber check to know if I need any shims, then fit them.
Where will I get the thrust washer quickly, I see RTR do them but haven't dealt with them before. Can't see them on PMS website. Any ideas?
RTR is a top bloke, used him a few times
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
@George@RTR_Parts is spot on, you'll have no issues ordering with him.
Genuine rear discs and the washers behind the discs and you'll be good to go.
Genuine rear discs and the washers behind the discs and you'll be good to go.
George@RTR_Parts
ClioSport Trader
Thanks all, just got your PM Andy , I can get you sorted with the Renault rear discs and spacers washers, on the shelf so can have them Tuesday mate 
Thanks George, you definitely live up the recommendations.
I just had a chance to look at the NSR and that bearing's gone as well, and guess what, no washer to be found!
Without the forum and previous 'how to' threads I wouldn't have known the washer existed, would have fitted new discs just to have them fail again.
So, very happy I joined up.
I just had a chance to look at the NSR and that bearing's gone as well, and guess what, no washer to be found!
Without the forum and previous 'how to' threads I wouldn't have known the washer existed, would have fitted new discs just to have them fail again.
So, very happy I joined up.
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Just make sure you fit the spacers the right when round when fitting. There's a tapered side and a flat side. Tapered faces the stub axle and the bearing of the disc faces the flat
George@RTR_Parts
ClioSport Trader
No worries Andy, happy to help
They catch a lot of people out the spacer washers, so i spread the word as much as I can, and tell every 172/182 owner about them when they ask about rear discs
As above Tapered side Towards car and re-torque hub nut to 175NM
They catch a lot of people out the spacer washers, so i spread the word as much as I can, and tell every 172/182 owner about them when they ask about rear discs
As above Tapered side Towards car and re-torque hub nut to 175NM
No worries Andy, happy to help
They catch a lot of people out the spacer washers, so i spread the word as much as I can, and tell every 172/182 owner about them when they ask about rear discs
As above Tapered side Towards car and re-torque hub nut to 175NM
Many thanks George, great service, particularly as it was the weekend, much appreciated it will give me a chance to fit the discs and check the camber, and then fit shims as necessary before Saturday's race.
I'll certainly be telling the garage that fitted the last set of discs, as they obviously didn't know about the spacers!
Cheers, Andy
Sorry for opening up an old thread. Is it worth getting the Pure Motorsport rear axle shims on a standard car? It's more to tightening/stiffen things up, or is it better to invest in new dampers and any worn rear bushes?
The car doesn't feel bad by any stretch of the imagination but the back end certainly doesn't feel as tight as the front.
I'm just planning modifications to help improve the handling a bit in the future.
Thanks
The car doesn't feel bad by any stretch of the imagination but the back end certainly doesn't feel as tight as the front.
I'm just planning modifications to help improve the handling a bit in the future.
Thanks
I fitted the shims to get just over a degree of negative camber on the rears. (The fronts have 3 degrss OS and 2 degrees NS)
Unfortunatley the following race in October was a wash out, the rain and poor choice of tyres meant no useful information.
Now we have been able to take the car on track again, at last, I have done the exact same lap time at Lydden as I did before putting the camber on the rear!
The rear seems to have too much grip in relation to the front, and experimenting with putting hard tyres on the rear and grippy ones on the front made the car handle much better. The rear slipped just enough to help the car around the corners without any heroic oversteer etc.
I guess it's best the set the alignmnet to maximize grip, then adjust either end with tyres, tyre pressures, suspension adjustment etc.
Just my amatuer thoughts though.
Unfortunatley the following race in October was a wash out, the rain and poor choice of tyres meant no useful information.
Now we have been able to take the car on track again, at last, I have done the exact same lap time at Lydden as I did before putting the camber on the rear!
The rear seems to have too much grip in relation to the front, and experimenting with putting hard tyres on the rear and grippy ones on the front made the car handle much better. The rear slipped just enough to help the car around the corners without any heroic oversteer etc.
I guess it's best the set the alignmnet to maximize grip, then adjust either end with tyres, tyre pressures, suspension adjustment etc.
Just my amatuer thoughts though.
I think I will do that bud, that's good advice. Tbh the car drives really nice and straight as it is, and brakes well under speed. It probably won't be seeing a track so I may just go with camber bolts on the front and new bushes/dampers on the rear. [emoji106]
Hello
Can you tell me the torque spec for shim bolts?
Hub nut is 175nm?
Can you tell me the torque spec for shim bolts?
Hub nut is 175nm?
This should help: https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/images/fitting_guides/Camber_shims_instructions.pdf
57nm for the M10s
29nm for the M8s
57nm for the M10s
29nm for the M8s
Thank you, found it
