fuel pump wont prime again

[wilky19]

bit of a strange one this

Yesterday i was driving the car when it cut out, it then re started then cut out just round the corner. I checked to see if the pump was priming and it wasn't i checked the relays and the wiring all seemed fine, the RAC then turned up and between us we determined that the pump had most probably lost its impeller. We came to this conclusion due to getting 12v on ignition and on cracking to fuel pump plug and the car wouldn't pump fuel even when the pump was given 12v direct and could be heard to be spinning very fast. I have changed the pump and whilst testing both on the bench the old one spun faster than the new one, sounding like it had no resistance.

I swap the two pump and it still wouldn't prime, I again checked for 12v on ignition and cracking which the plug got, also put a direct 12v to the pump which it span and let the car start cos it pumped enough fuel to fail for it to start.

also the fuel gauge is not working when it was before it started to cut out.

It seems to me there might be a problem with the plug, is this common and what the best way to resolve it.

thanks in advance.

 

[wilky19]

i just bypassed the plug using some small spade connectors and some wire. and it primed and started straight away. so it confirms its the plug that is at fault. i think it could have do this due to all the times its had a multimeter shoved down it when test for the last priming fault and this pump fault.

what's the best way of replacing it? getting a new plug and soldering it on or with little spade connectors.

 

[MicKPM]

Yep, most likely a poor connection between the plug pins and the terminals - Can't you "modify" them with a small screwdriver to make them meet again? New pins are available but they're not cheap for what they are (and you can only buy them in packs of 32)

 

[Bluebeard]

Funnily enough I fitted my Warlboro pump today and while doing it I noticed my plg was a bit crappy.

I ended up soldering the wires together and fitting spade connectors further down. Seems to be fine now.*touch wood!*

 

[wilky19]

Yep, most likely a poor connection between the plug pins and the terminals - Can't you "modify" them with a small screwdriver to make them meet again? New pins are available but they're not cheap for what they are (and you can only buy them in packs of 32)

ill give it a go with modifying them tomorrow, just getting really fed up with the car. where would you get the pins from? are they generic spades or specific ons

Funnily enough I fitted my Warlboro pump today and while doing it I noticed my plg was a bit crappy.

I ended up soldering the wires together and fitting spade connectors further down. Seems to be fine now.*touch wood!*

where you get you walbro from, think im ging to put one in mine cos the pump in it now is f0xy spare so need to give it back soon.

 

[MicKPM]

You can buy them from an automotive electrical specialist - For me they're called "Midland Magneto" but eBay *may* be another source. Dave Walker at Emerald also sells the pins you'll need for the fuel pump multiplug but you will also need a special tool to 'de-pin' the plug (Unless you fancy risking ramming a small screwdriver in to your hand - I know first hand this = Ouch!).

Raiding one from a scrapper and soldering the wires in place might be a faster option for you, not to mention cheaper - They're not specific to the Clio II or even the RS models... Pretty sure its the same pump/plug setup in the Scenic I Phase 2, Megane I Ph2, Laguna II, Megane II, Etc

Mick

 

[Bluebeard]

I got mine off ebay, £77 delivered iirc.

 

[Whiteley]

My plug was temperamental too. Take it off and you'll see how you can play with the pins slightly to make better contact. Been perfectly fine on mine since.

 

[wilky19]

My plug was temperamental too. Take it off and you'll see how you can play with the pins slightly to make better contact. Been perfectly fine on mine since.

tried that but they pretty fucked from the multimeter. got a new plug coming of mat brown and if its still playing up then spade connectors it is either way not letting it defeat me. just getting fed up of messing me about.

 

[MicKPM]

Just be carefull with spade connectors... They're okay in some situations but to an auto-electrician like me they're the devils along with "Choc-blocs" and "Scotch Locks"!

They're fine in *most* applications but remember this is your fuel pump so fairly critical as far as systems go. Firstly, the pump/sender terminals are very small and in a tight grouping making life tricky and arcing between the pins is possible. Secondly, bumps, knocks and general movement in the vehicles suspension will ensure that the spades work loose over time so I urge you to replace the connector for a proper OEM locking type and simply solder the wires and use a good quality heat shrink on the joints rather than insulation tape.

Do the job once - do the job right... its better than being stuck at the road side this winter

Mick

 

[Bluebeard]

Just be carefull with spade connectors... They're okay in some situations but to an auto-electrician like me they're the devils along with "Choc-blocs" and "Scotch Locks"!

They're fine in *most* applications but remember this is your fuel pump so fairly critical as far as systems go. Firstly, the pump/sender terminals are very small and in a tight grouping making life tricky and arcing between the pins is possible. Secondly, bumps, knocks and general movement in the vehicles suspension will ensure that the spades work loose over time so I urge you to replace the connector for a proper OEM locking type and simply solder the wires and use a good quality heat shrink on the joints rather than insulation tape.

Do the job once - do the job right... its better than being stuck at the road side this winter

Mick

FLOL!! You sound just like my dad!

in all seriousness though, I covered my spade connectors (sorry) in solder, then wrapped them in insulation tape. Reckon this will be ok? The last thing I want is the things arcing out about 3 cm from a load of fuel!! :S

 

[MicKPM]

Maybe I am you Dad :lol:

12v @ 10A isn't gonna arc that far - Its more likely that the spades will move and touch one another causing a short but if they're soldered on they're not gonna go anywhere unless you can't solder for shiz.

 

[wilky19]

spade connectors are the last option if this new plug I'm being sent doesn't work.

know what you mean with choc blocs and all that s**t just encourages people to bodge stuff that should be bodged.