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Going from a 1*2 to a Williams



  R14 CUP
Hey Guys,

It looks like i have now sold my Cup, after a very very emotional 15 months of ownership. I know i will regret selling her, but sometimes needs must.

I am looking at buying a very very nice Williams 2 to replace her, maybe one of the nicest in the country.

What are they like as a daily driver, are they that unreliable? What are availability of parts like?

I am hoping i may only have to run it on a day to day basis in the next 6 months or so tbh, as i am very hopeful that i will get a company car to drive to and from work/winter!

Jamie
 
If its been looked after it will be fine... I had a valver that had 20k of reciepts, on 175k... I drove it for 6 months and never had to touch it, though winter too. All depends on its past IMO..

on the other hand you could get a bad one and everything go wrong on it, like my grey valver. Although, its fine now - but its meant replacing every single thing over the past two years lol.
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
It does look very nice!

My best bit of advice though, is take someone who knows Williams/Clio 16valvers. I don't mea Bob from the pub who once serviced his mates 1.4 Automatic CLio either!

If you know what you're looking for, you can spot problems a mile off. (I'm mainly aiming this at rot and service history)

Thats not the original Radio though. ;)
 
  R14 CUP
I know Whiteley and Grey are more than willing to come along with me too. They both know them inside out, which is a plus.

Whilst i love the originality of the car, i will be changing the stereo for something a bit more.. iPhone friendly!
 

Jamie

ClioSport Club Member
I'm sure I've seen you on WC. Anyway, that's Daz's old motor. Owned by Baj I think now. Daz didn't have any problems with it. Looks really nice. Only thing that puts me off is it's not a Williams 1. I think if I was buying another it would have to be a 1.
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
Take a magnet aswell and try it on all the sills/arches.

The amount of Clio rear ends with filler instead of proper repair panels is upsetting!
 
  R14 CUP
Jamie, Yeah ive been posting on WC. I would love a Williams 1, but there aren't many around in a good condition and they seem to hold a premium over others.

Yeah, i am well aware of Mk1 problems with rear arches, the sills all look in one piece from the pictures i've seen too. Everything seems to be done properly, even the wheels have the silver edge on them, where as most dont.

The bloke has been honest about the rust problems, on the tailgate area around the drain plug - i dont doubt his honesty on bit.
 
  535d / t5 caravelle
if you get Daz's old williams i imagine your on the right track! i had a williams 3, apart from the gearbox, ran it daily no problems at all, same went for my clio valver which i covered over 50k in, get a good one and it will be fine
 
  R14 CUP
Thanks for you comments lads - between you lot, you've instilled enough confidence to go ahead and do it!
 

16v_paddy

ClioSport Club Member
  Valvers & 172 Cup
No more or no less reliable than any other french car tbh, you'll be fine with that one. Mine has been my daily driver for nearly 3 years now (ok it's a valver but they're pretty much the same) only times it's ever let me down on 2 occasions with snapped clutch cables :mad: so don't worry about it ;)
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
I personally love using them as daily drivers. (Probably why I have the mk1 van, Williams 2 and the valver! lol) The seats are the most comfortable seats ever produced, they''re easy to drive, they have enough power, they sound lovely...
I just really really like them.
 
  R14 CUP
I haven't driven one but i have been passenger in a few - i imagine they will be a similiar experience to the cup, albeit much rawer with plenty of character.

I'm gonna make the plunge - im gonna go buy it at the weekend - RESULT!
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
Make sure you get a full on thread up! Plenty of pics!

Theres not enough mk1 love on this forum anymore.
 

Rob

ClioSport Moderator
I haven't driven one but i have been passenger in a few - i imagine they will be a similiar experience to the cup, albeit much rawer with plenty of character.

I'm gonna make the plunge - im gonna go buy it at the weekend - RESULT!

You haven't driven one but you're that serious about buying one? Mental!

Daniel, you still have that Williams? WTF?

Oh, and I agree on the mk1 love, although it seems to have made a come back with the f4r'ers and the guy who restored the Williams.
 
  R14 CUP
For the time being this will be staying very much standard - i don't think i could modify a classic. Valver maybe, Williams no :(

I will get plenty of pictures up in due course :)
 

Cookson

ClioSport Club Member
  Mk1 Audi TT 3.2 V6
Watch for the gearstick jumpring around - Dogbone mount (you can add a front g/box mount from a R19 16V)
As said, magnet to the rear arches. That said, if they look/feel fine, then they been replaced to a high standard
dinks in the roof are commen when they have been used hard. And lets face it, no one buys a williams to potter to the shops and back.
Diff circlips on the boxes are a weak, but easy repaired problem
Check the DATE that belt was done. Costsly to do IIRC (not 172 price though)

£2500 is alot though for what is, essentially, a valver with 200cc more and widetrack.

As has been said, its not a non-sunroof willy one, and it wasnt limited run on those.

Still a nice car, nonetheless............... but I would be looking elsewhere

http://www.clio16valver.co.uk/board/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=41782
 
  Clio 197
make sure you still give it a good going over, sounds like you have already decided to buy without viewing it?
 

Ali

  V6, Trackhawk, GTS
Hummm...They look good. Thats all i've got to say about my ownership experience.
 
  Black Clio GT
thats a tidy car, well worth 2.5k and if fred says it went mint then that would be enough for me to buy it...
 
  182
this is what i done to my old valver to stop clutch cable snapping i know its volvo parts but you can get the exact parts of a 172 or 182 or stealership
engine.gif

Soft Pedal Clutch Conversion This Guide describes how to make your Clutch Pedal lighter!
Published by Chet T16
12th October 2006
Soft Pedal Clutch Conversion
This is the same conversion carried out by the likes of BB Performance. It involves switching the standard clutch release lever/fork for a Volvo one along with some other bits.

Here are the Volvo main dealer part numbers for the longer clutch lever and other bits:

Fork V03455952
Bracket V03424195
Nylon Cap V03467278
Brass Bush V03455957
Flange lock Nut V00971098
Flange Bolt V00946329

Clutch Pedal Stop Plastic Block from Renault 6006 003 944 is £1.28 inc VAT.

Total parts cost is around £23.00.

The nylon bearing is fitted while the clutch is out. The arm is fitted to the gearbox when the new clutch goes in. The extension bracket is fitted to the bell housing mounting point where the large round clutch cable sheath end used to fit up to and through. The bush goes through this large hole to hold the bolt that clamps the bracket in place.

The extension of the release arm compared with the standard one is: Long lever; 62mm from tip of release bearing end to pivot and 225mm overall, Short lever; 60mm and 160mm overall. So the long lever is 65mm longer. The bracket is necessary to extend the sheath end to about the same distance so the cable can run straight into the sheath.

(For those who want to calculate the total leverage ratios the clutch pedal is 230mm from just beyond the centre of the rubber foot to the centre metal pivot, then about 50 to 55mm from the pivot to the top where cable runs through.)

The nylon cup is a replacement pivot bearing that the clutch release lever sits on inside the bell housing. The old one will probably have worn. The new one was quite a bit higher on mine. The old cap can (while the gearbox is out of the car) be easily removed by working the open end of an about 12 to 14mm spanner behind it and gently levering. The new one just pushes on.

The arm cannot be retro fitted from the outside afterwards as it's too big to go through the hole in the bell housing. So is the standard arm by the way.

In the car you will need to take off the 'clutch pedal stop' and hacksaw some off the height so the pedal sits higher and therefore starts to de-clutch sooner. Otherwise you will find that the pedal has to be pushed through the carpet to get the gears in. The pedals stops vary in height so you will have to experiment.
 


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