ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Heater Control Lights
- Thread starter Rich!
- Start date
Have a butchers at this then: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?448765-LED-Dash-Information&highlight=led
Does seem strange that they have all blown though.
Does seem strange that they have all blown though.
2004 clio 182 ff
ive just replaced the bulbs in my gf's clio. there horrible to do. the panel below the heater controls pulls out, the radio has to be removed also and there are 2x t20 screw there. then u need to turn the heater controls as much as possible to gain access to the rear of them. i did it without removing them though as couldnt get the cables disconnected from the dials
RB 182
Right I had another go following this guide here...
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showt...-bulb-changing
Still can't get to the back of the heater controls. I've removed the two torx screws at the bottom, as in this photo...
But undoing them seems to do.... nothing.
it seems to be these two screws and some clips holding the controls in...
there is not enough play in the controls for me to do anything, i'm really stumped :/
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showt...-bulb-changing
Still can't get to the back of the heater controls. I've removed the two torx screws at the bottom, as in this photo...
But undoing them seems to do.... nothing.
it seems to be these two screws and some clips holding the controls in...
there is not enough play in the controls for me to do anything, i'm really stumped :/
Less
The bottom two screws in your photos do nothing, as you say. If you've removed the two from the headunit aperture then the heater controls should be free to pull away. It is quite awkward and from what I remember (several years ago now) you need to push it down and then forward.
There isn't a great deal of play in the attached cables so you may need to detach them before being able to change the bulbs.
There isn't a great deal of play in the attached cables so you may need to detach them before being able to change the bulbs.
Last edited:
Laguna sport tourer
just them 2 screws in the bottom photo need removing then if you push the heater controls back they will unclip, its a right b**ch to manouver out though and the bulbs are 1.2 watt capless
BoatNonce
ClioSport Club Member
They are an absolute nightmare. I had both of mine working... once.
clio grande
To recap what some have said and relay my experience yesterday doing this bulb replacement on a Clio mk 2, 5 door, 1149cc, D7F engine (yes the boring 8V one), and no aircon just 3 dials in a row (L to R it is TEMP, AIR PATH, FAN SPEED) firstly get yourself the tiny 1.2W 12V push-in style filament bulbs, or the LED ones I got, the label from an Ebay supplier says SKU015459 white EVK 0130--12607 then G-D-04-11. The method:
- Sit in the passenger seat, and move it back a little for comfort
- Correctly stated already, there are 2 screws showing externally below the heater, Torx 20 I think, remove
- Now it's only clips.
- First, note that I can tell you the top edge is 'hung on' when you come to refit the unit. In other words, you want to UNCLIP the bottom two clips (they are about where the screws were) so reach behind with left hand, kind of flex the plastic facia surrond hanging under the unit downward, and push part of the lower edge of the dial flat face section, away from you so as to dislodge it. It'll give, just pull down harder and push back harder and as long as it's not freezing cold, nothing should snap - I took a run in the car first. Do the same for the other side.
- Now, it's just two 'hanger tongues' or whatever at the top of the little dial unit that are holding it, if you reach behind with your left hand and help with the right at the front, push up and backward, it'll un-hang.
- SET THE DIALS - as others have said, this is necessary - just turn them all CLOCKWISE say fully.
- The unit should now be loose and you can see down to the floor etc behind it. The next step is to unclip the black flat face of the dial area, from the white plastic of the unit backing that holds the cables, circuit board etc.
- You can see the 'U' shape little moulding from the black dial face, that clip over the moulded bumps in the white backing unit. Ideally, some piece of metal strip that is a small 'J' shape would be available, like a micro-sized crowbar. Because you need to get behind the black plastic 'U' moulded bits, and pull them up so the dial face will tip off at the tope edge from the white back unit.
-Underneath, similar situation. I struggled with an ordinary screwdriver, and broken fingernails. I thought a computer blanking plate could be good, but opted for discomfort and impatience instead.
- NOW AT LAST the two pieces are separated from the facia AND each other, so you can d*ck about heaving them this way and that until you get the front dial face completely off the back part, and extract it through the facia hole, set it down so you don't tread on it - and you set all the dials fully clockwise or ACW right?
- Plenty of light needed, you'll see the two lousy bulbs, maybe 5mm diameter, sticking out of their sockets in the circuit board. Pull them out with fingers or some grippy mat and fingers or pliers with soft tissue or whatever.
- NOW to put the new bulbs in!
- The LED ones are much bigger-looking, but fit. Be prepared to test the lights - don't need ignition key in - BEFORE re-assembling. I know you were going to do this.
- With the new LEDs or just filament bulbs in, try the lights - just the sidelights will do, but might as well flip the whole lot on and off again. DOES IT WORK? Lucky you mine didn't. It's merely that the little wire folded back on the LED bulb, didn't make good contact on one of them - had to pull it out and shove it back a couple of times.
THAT IS IT - if you tested the light switch on the stalk makes these new bulbs come on, put it back together. Rmember the dials need to point how they did before you took it apart, the front dial face first clips over the back white moulding of the unit (make sure it snaps into place all round), then you sort of 'hang' the top of the whole thing onto the clips you cannot see behind the main facia, THEN pull the bottom forward to make it clip into position.
THEN, you will be able to screw the almost-pointless self tapper screws back in. When trying to 'hang' the top of the dial unit back into the main facia again, look down to see the LOWER EDGE clips are aligned. This tells you the unit is in the correct place, left to right wise, before you expend effort.
Others correctly say, it's a fart to do. I thank the previous posters, for helping me get started. Best to all.
PS you will understand why I fitted LEDs once you've done the job. Don't worry about them being taller, they do fit and work fine.
.
.
- Sit in the passenger seat, and move it back a little for comfort
- Correctly stated already, there are 2 screws showing externally below the heater, Torx 20 I think, remove
- Now it's only clips.
- First, note that I can tell you the top edge is 'hung on' when you come to refit the unit. In other words, you want to UNCLIP the bottom two clips (they are about where the screws were) so reach behind with left hand, kind of flex the plastic facia surrond hanging under the unit downward, and push part of the lower edge of the dial flat face section, away from you so as to dislodge it. It'll give, just pull down harder and push back harder and as long as it's not freezing cold, nothing should snap - I took a run in the car first. Do the same for the other side.
- Now, it's just two 'hanger tongues' or whatever at the top of the little dial unit that are holding it, if you reach behind with your left hand and help with the right at the front, push up and backward, it'll un-hang.
- SET THE DIALS - as others have said, this is necessary - just turn them all CLOCKWISE say fully.
- The unit should now be loose and you can see down to the floor etc behind it. The next step is to unclip the black flat face of the dial area, from the white plastic of the unit backing that holds the cables, circuit board etc.
- You can see the 'U' shape little moulding from the black dial face, that clip over the moulded bumps in the white backing unit. Ideally, some piece of metal strip that is a small 'J' shape would be available, like a micro-sized crowbar. Because you need to get behind the black plastic 'U' moulded bits, and pull them up so the dial face will tip off at the tope edge from the white back unit.
-Underneath, similar situation. I struggled with an ordinary screwdriver, and broken fingernails. I thought a computer blanking plate could be good, but opted for discomfort and impatience instead.
- NOW AT LAST the two pieces are separated from the facia AND each other, so you can d*ck about heaving them this way and that until you get the front dial face completely off the back part, and extract it through the facia hole, set it down so you don't tread on it - and you set all the dials fully clockwise or ACW right?
- Plenty of light needed, you'll see the two lousy bulbs, maybe 5mm diameter, sticking out of their sockets in the circuit board. Pull them out with fingers or some grippy mat and fingers or pliers with soft tissue or whatever.
- NOW to put the new bulbs in!
- The LED ones are much bigger-looking, but fit. Be prepared to test the lights - don't need ignition key in - BEFORE re-assembling. I know you were going to do this.
- With the new LEDs or just filament bulbs in, try the lights - just the sidelights will do, but might as well flip the whole lot on and off again. DOES IT WORK? Lucky you mine didn't. It's merely that the little wire folded back on the LED bulb, didn't make good contact on one of them - had to pull it out and shove it back a couple of times.
THAT IS IT - if you tested the light switch on the stalk makes these new bulbs come on, put it back together. Rmember the dials need to point how they did before you took it apart, the front dial face first clips over the back white moulding of the unit (make sure it snaps into place all round), then you sort of 'hang' the top of the whole thing onto the clips you cannot see behind the main facia, THEN pull the bottom forward to make it clip into position.
THEN, you will be able to screw the almost-pointless self tapper screws back in. When trying to 'hang' the top of the dial unit back into the main facia again, look down to see the LOWER EDGE clips are aligned. This tells you the unit is in the correct place, left to right wise, before you expend effort.
Others correctly say, it's a fart to do. I thank the previous posters, for helping me get started. Best to all.
PS you will understand why I fitted LEDs once you've done the job. Don't worry about them being taller, they do fit and work fine.
.
.
Still looking my self.. cant seem to get no help on it lol
Similar threads
