Help, 182 running issues! Hot starting and spluttering at high rpm.

[Nick197rs]

Hi everyone,
I’m desperately in need of help.
Normally I’m able to fix pretty much everything, but this time I’m lost.
So I’ve got a Clio 182 (2004)
I’ve got a couple of issues...
I bought the car with a bad misfire, and turned out to be a trapped plug lead which was arcing. I replaced the leads and plugs and it ran very well.
After driving it, discovered another fault!
Once warm/hot, and car turned off, it would restart straight away. But if left for longer than 10-15mins, it struggled to restart again. It would crank over and over very quickly and slowly splutter back to life.
But it revs freely and feels responsive etc as it should... which brings me onto the next issue, over 6k it splutters, bogs, pops, misfires and bangs (as if it had antilag and launch control) when it does this I’ve noticed the eml flicker once or twice.

So far I’ve changed
•HT Leads
•Plugs
•CPS
•CTS
•Injectors

After a few days of getting it running again it wouldn’t start at all and threw up codes for CPS, so I replaced it with a new one which didn’t work, but after swapping wires around in plug it worked...

It’s really becoming a headache 😞

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[JamesBryan]

I would have guessed injectors from what you've said, but you've replaced them.

Brand new ones were they?

 

[STEVE.M]

Hi everyone,
I’m desperately in need of help.
Normally I’m able to fix pretty much everything, but this time I’m lost.
So I’ve got a Clio 182 (2004)
I’ve got a couple of issues...
I bought the car with a bad misfire, and turned out to be a trapped plug lead which was arcing. I replaced the leads and plugs and it ran very well.
After driving it, discovered another fault!
Once warm/hot, and car turned off, it would restart straight away. But if left for longer than 10-15mins, it struggled to restart again. It would crank over and over very quickly and slowly splutter back to life.
But it revs freely and feels responsive etc as it should... which brings me onto the next issue, over 6k it splutters, bogs, pops, misfires and bangs (as if it had antilag and launch control) when it does this I’ve noticed the eml flicker once or twice.

So far I’ve changed
•HT Leads
•Plugs
•CPS
•CTS
•Injectors

After a few days of getting it running again it wouldn’t start at all and threw up codes for CPS, so I replaced it with a new one which didn’t work, but after swapping wires around in plug it worked...

It’s really becoming a headache 😞

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Were the spark plugs NGK PFR6E-10?
If not, there`s your problem.

 

[JamesBryan]

Could possibly be the fuel pump on its way out, but it's not that common really.

 

[bloke]

what you reading codes with? rare for crank sensor to throw a code.

 

[Nick197rs]

Injectors are brand new.
I’ll check which plugs I got.
I’ve had it on can clip and my snap on code reader. Came up with crank sensor when it wouldn’t start at all. And has been randomly throwing up ‘flywheel target’ but since clearing a few days ago it hasn’t come back.

 

[Nick197rs]

Spark plugs are correct

 

[Mr Plums]

It sounds as if something might be flooding when its been left a while causing it to splutter when starting it, possibly the new injectors? Are they oem? Or oil into the cylinders?

 

[Nick197rs]

Then it would struggle from cold too?
When cold it fires as soon as you turn the key

 

[Vaughan]

Has it been remapped? What’s the air intake like — blocked filter?

 

[Nick197rs]

Yes it was mapped by ktec... so that could be the issue but unsure...
Air filter is a ram air which is clean

 

[bloke]

Crank sensor fault is probably from when. You had it connected wrong way round.

Cycle the ignition a few times before you start it when warm. Each time it's on leave it on for a couple of seconds, if you can listen out for the fuel pump priming and then stopping, it's under the back seat on the drivers side.

 

[Nick197rs]

No the fault code was before touching crank sensor.

I’ve noticed it’s better to start if you have foot on accelerator. I’ll try this later on when I’ve left the car to cool for 20 min.

Would a throttle body fault cause symptoms like this?

 

[bloke]

Throttle body fault should bring up electrical fault light. Wiggly line in the box.

 

[Nick197rs]

So it definitely helps if food is on accelerator to start when it’s been left for abit.
Cranks over about 5-6 times then starts, it does run lumpy for a few seconds then it’s ok.

 

[bloke]

Sounds like fuel pressure.

 

[Nick197rs]

Is the fuel pressure reg in with the pump in tank? I know they are on the later RS stuff

 

[bloke]

Yup, in the tank. Try it first thougg with cycling the ignition a few times and if that cures it then new pump.

 

[Mr Plums]

Could it be a faulty fuel pump relay?

 

[Nick197rs]

Tried cycling fuel pump 5 times prior to starting the car. No difference

 

[STEVE.M]

Tried cycling fuel pump 5 times prior to starting the car. No difference

You can read the rest, but jump straight to post 51?
https://www.cliosport.net/threads/rojers-182.803330/page-2

 

[JamesBryan]

Sounds like the pump to me then with it not starting after priming several times and also struggling for fuel at 6000rpm by the sounds of it.

 

[Nick197rs]

I’m not sure, I’ve just started it, and did it’s usual 5-6 cranks.
Left it idling for 5 mins, then turned it off and started it back up and it took about 6 cranks to start up again...
So it seems if it’s not been driven after struggling to start, it still does same thing...
I’m so confused

 

[Nick197rs]

I can hear the pump priming when ignition turned on

 

[Nick197rs]

I wonder if it might be a failing lambda sensor...

 

[Amos91]

I wonder if it might be a failing lambda sensor...

Swap the lambdas around as a test.

Or if you unplug, it should do to the default map and try restarting the car then.

 

[Nick197rs]

Just been out in it again. At 4200rpm it cut power (like hitting rev limiter) car kangarood, popped and banged.... how embarrassing

 

[Mr Plums]

Plug it into clip?

 

[Nick197rs]

Done that loads of times.
Nothing really, had ‘Flywheel Target’ come up a few times.
I’m going to change the CPS again for a 3rd new one... and change wiring. See if that helps

 

[STEVE.M]

Just been out in it again. At 4200rpm it cut power (like hitting rev limiter) car kangarood, popped and banged.... how embarrassing

That`s just it dropping into limp mode though?

 

[Amos91]

Timing? When and who did the belts?

 

[bloke]

what make of crank sensor are you using?

 

[Nick197rs]

That`s just it dropping into limp mode though?

No it’s not limp mode, if you keep foot on accelerator it pops and bangs like mad and revs abit higher, but misfiring like hell.

Timing? When and who did the belts?

Could be... but timing out wouldn’t cause the intermittent horrendous misfiring at high rpm.

what make of crank sensor are you using?

It’s a Euro car parts one, I ordered a new one which arrived today, blue one with the new plug and cables

 

[bloke]

so it's only had black one so far?

 

[Nick197rs]

Yeah

 

[bloke]

fingers crossed it's had an iffy plug on the loom. the pins can pull back on them and you get a dodgy connection.

 

[Nick197rs]

Quick update.
Changed for the upgraded plug/wiring/sensor...
No change at all. Still doing it

 

[STEVE.M]

Quick update.
Changed for the upgraded plug/wiring/sensor...
No change at all. Still doing it

Not the best day you`ve ever had then?

I assume the new injectors were Magneti Marelli?
https://www.trodo.eu/injector-valve-magneti-marelli-805001446001

If you could substitute a known good coil pack, that would be one more box ticked.

You referred to a possible K-Tec remap, the very subject that was the start of their fall from CS grace if I remember correctly.

Could you get the car into EFI to find out what`s going on?

 

[oVerboost.]

Could be lambda related... On cold starts it's not actually using the lambda reading, so the ECU is controlling the fueling etc from the map, rather than live data.
I'd check the wiring on the lambda sensors, and the earth (might be ecu earth pin) isn't damaged and check all your other main earths from that loom too.

 

[bloke]

If you could substitute a known good coil pack, that would be one more box ticked.

doubt it would be the coil, if one side fails then it will still run or at least try and run on the other side on two cylinders? fwir clip has two codes for the coil pack relating to each side?