HELP: My car is Immobilised

[J@Y]

My car has been through a variety of checks on this.

I thought it was an immobiliser issue on the Sigma alarm for a while but as it turns out, I don’t think the Sigma S32 immobiliser is connected!

I now think it maybe that the key is no longer coded to the car after the car was left stood for 6 weeks and the battery went entirely flat. The reason I think this is because the ignition is being cut after just 2-3 turns of the engine but the fuel is also being cut. I took the supply line off the fuel rail and no fuel at all was coming through. I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking when the ignition is switched on but I can’t hear the fuel pump prime…

My next thought; Has the car lost it’s coding to the key chip? I have two keys for it, neither of which start the car. The fact that both ignition and fuel are being cut suggests it could be the car’s immobilisation system. The Sigma S32 is only single point immobilisation so would only cut on one or the other.

If this is the case, is there a way I can go about re-coding the keys to the car?

 

[MicKPM]

Right, as you can here the fuel pump relay actuating, assuming of course you are checking the actual fuel pump relay and not the main control or A/C relay, it is unlikely to be an Imobiliser issue as the UCH/ECM will not normally activate these components unless the security checksum has been run and passed.

First thing you need to do is check the +12v feed that the relay switches is actually there. IF it is jump in the rear and remove the rear seat bench to enable you to access the fuel pump itself. Disconnect the multiplug and with the aid of a multi-meter set to measure voltage, probe the two thick wires and then key on the ignition. IF you see +12v for around 3 seconds the circuit is fine and the fuel pump is most likely faulty. IF you don't see voltage try running a dedicated +12v feed to run the pump and then attempt to start the car.

If the car runs with the pump having a dedicated +12v feed then you will need to check the wiring between the fuel pump relay and the pump itself including the multiplugs for sogns of damage and corrosion.

Mick

 

[J@Y]

Right, as you can here the fuel pump relay actuating, assuming of course you are checking the actual fuel pump relay and not the main control or A/C relay, it is unlikely to be an Imobiliser issue as the UCH/ECM will not normally activate these components unless the security checksum has been run and passed.

First thing you need to do is check the +12v feed that the relay switches is actually there. IF it is jump in the rear and remove the rear seat bench to enable you to access the fuel pump itself. Disconnect the multiplug and with the aid of a multi-meter set to measure voltage, probe the two thick wires and then key on the ignition. IF you see +12v for around 3 seconds the circuit is fine and the fuel pump is most likely faulty. IF you don't see voltage try running a dedicated +12v feed to run the pump and then attempt to start the car.

If the car runs with the pump having a dedicated +12v feed then you will need to check the wiring between the fuel pump relay and the pump itself including the multiplugs for sogns of damage and corrosion.

Mick

Thanks Mick. That's very helpful. I will do that on Saturday when I get to the car. It's actually stuck at a friends at the moment.

When I say I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking, I'm having a friend switch the igntion on whilst I stand listening to the fuse/relay box in the N/S of the engine bay and there is definitely a click coming from there.

Do you have any idea as to why the engine cranks for roughly three turns then cuts out? When I removed the engine and refitted but missed reconnecting the earth strap it just kept turning but wouldn't start. I'm confused as to why it keeps cutting after just a few turns of the engine.