Help needed! (F4R timing)

[Fodda172]

Hi all!
Ive done/doing the cam belt change on my 172, this the second time I’ve done it, using the gen tools. Im struggling to get the horse shoe tool 2 slide into cams nicely, it will go if u force it! But it’s p**sing me off because it was spot on when I started. I’ve gone bk through the motions 3 times now & can I f**k get it 2 slide in any ideas?? Or will it b ok as is??
Cheers

 

[TonkaTruck]

Send it to an expert?

Cams 180 degrees out?

 

[Fodda172]

Send it to an expert?

Cams 180 degrees out?

Thanks 4 the reply, it was spot on when taking it all apart with all tools in place so 180 degrees out is very unlikely 👍🏻

 

[JamesBryan]

I'm guessing you've evened the belt tension out first by leaving the pulleys loose and spinning them round a few times?

 

[Fodda172]

I'm guessing you've evened the belt tension out first by leaving the pulleys loose and spinning them round a few times?

Yes mate, probably 5/6 times b4 tightening

 

[JamesBryan]

Yes mate, probably 5/6 times b4 tightening

How far off is it, got a pic?

Just keep trying, if you're doing everything right it should work out.

 

[Fodda172]

How far off is it, got a pic?

Just keep trying, if you're doing everything right it should work out.

How far off is it, got a pic?

Just keep trying, if you're doing everything right it should work out.

 

[JamesBryan]

That's not far off at all is it 😅

I'd probably be ok with that.

 

[Fodda172]

That's not far off at all is it 😅

I'd probably be ok with that.

🤣 no it’s not, it’s just p**ing me off because it slid in 2 start with!, I’ll live with it then & rebuild it cheers mate 👍🏻

 

[JamesBryan]

🤣 no it’s not, it’s just p**ing me off because it slid in 2 start with!, I’ll live with it then & rebuild it cheers mate 👍🏻

It's probably not even a degree or half a degree. More like a gnats bollock!

 

[mgoode180566]

Do the feeler gauge trick to take the tension off the inlet side

 

[dangerous dave]

I imagine you’re running the tension off the belt, locking the pulleys.. shoe in, then going full torque on each cam in sequence.

Instead. The front cam tends to rock anti clockwise and the rear rocks clockswise creating tension before you even start.
So.. Lock the pulley tool, take out the horseshoe, tweak the front one up (clockwise) using the cam tool as a spanner and nip up the dephaser pulley, then lightly tweak the rear down/anti-clockwise and nip up the exhaust pulley.
Now when you put the shoe in it should rattle around like the videos and slide about, if not un nip the pulleys and go again until they’re totally at rest and the shoes rattles when the exhaust and dephaser are just nipped up. If you get that right you’ll rip the exhaust and dephaser up to torque first time and it’ll be perfect.
What normally happens is as you rip on the pulleys in sequence to full torque one moves and throws it out, partly because sh1t happens, but also because the pressure hits the shoe before you complete the sequence. Easy as peas.

 

[Fodda172]

Thanks 4 that!!! I totally get what ur saying, took me a while to figure that out😂 but got there in the end what a pain in the arse these engines are!. All sorted now & runs a lot better thanks 4 the info 👍🏻

 

[Brigsy]

I also found that when torquing the cam pulleys using the original renault pulley lock, the cog can move a little. I use an 8mm spanner on the end to keep hold of it.

Also on my first attempt i done it with the cam slot upover, engine needed another rotation which give me a bit of a headache as horseshoe kept going in tight. It can be done this way but its a b*****d to get right, ive since made sure cams are right way as per manual and never had an issue.

 

[Fodda172]

Yeah I was surprised having locked the tools up FT how much they moved/flexed. They are a b***ed ur right, I’ll do 4 the next year then the engines going into a van!👍🏻 Cheers mate