*HELP* What is easiest way remove a 1*2 engine ?

[D1CKY]

I have a bit of work to do to my 1*2, Sump Gasket, Gearbox and Clutch amongst a few other bits

I was thinking it'd be easier to do this work with the engine out the car.

What is they easiest way to remove the engine and gearbox from the car ?
Can they be removed in one piece ?
Or does the box have to be broken apart from the gearbox to enable the engine to be removed from above with a engine crane ?
I would like to avoid removing and lowering the subframe if i can as i have heard the steering rack is a nightmare to remove and refit.

I heard the PAS hoses/pipes can be a bit of a pain.
Is there anyway i can leave these connected and put to one side to the keep integrity of system ?
And still remove the engine ?

I was planning on :
Draining g/box and cooling system
Remove front bumper, slam panel, headlights, bonnet along with radiator(s) and airbox
Unplugging engine sensors, engine wiring loom c/w ecu and battery
Unbolting manifold
Removing driveshafts
Removing A/C and PAS pipes if needed
Remove engine and gearbox mount bolts

Can anyone think of anything i have missed ?

Or know any tips that may save me time ?


Richard

 

[Martin_172]

ive never done a 172/182 but done a few non RS petrol and diesels.

personally id take it out the top if your just doing it in your garage, you will need to split the box and engine, you may need to lower the subframe to get enough room to get the box out the road, but because your just dropping it slightly the rack etc can still stay where it is, just keep an eye on the PAS hoses.

EDIT:: you can be pikey and leave the N/S shaft in if your leaving the box where it is to save draining and replacing the box oil if its resonably new stuff, or atleast you can on a 1.2 (i done this for a guy on a budget lol)

 

[mgoode180566]

i have had the motor out twice now. once for a clutch \ belt change and once to fit a new motor.

not a difficult job. just take your time and remember there are no short cuts. you have pretty much covered it all. if a belt change is also needed then get it done at the same time. can be a bit tricky lifting the motor but i comes out as one lump, engine and box together. when you lift it you will need to angle the box side down and inch it out and watch the pulleys as they are very close to the inner wing driver side. tricky part is getting it back in as it such a tight fit. you need to inch it in and keep checking as you go. goes back in bearbox side first as far over as you can go with the gearbox under the chassis. this gives you more room as the engine side slides in.

have fun...

 

[DannyR]

I should really do a guide for this next time, I'll try remember now though.

Jack car up and remove wheels.

Disconnect battery and remove.

Remove front bumper, headlights, front cross member and grille.

Drain gearbox and engine oil and put plugs back in.

Drain coolant by undoing top and bottom hose on the radiator with a pair of mole grips.

Unplug radiator, temp switch and aircon plugs.

Undo pipes to aircon radiator, this may piss out some nice green gas so beware, it may make you jump.

Undo small 8/10mm bolt holding PAS pipe to assembly.

Remove radiator and fan assembly.

Remove remaining aircon pipes just so they're out the way.

Undo 3 x 10mm nuts/bolts holding ECU and bracket in, undo plug and remove as one.

Undo 30mm driveshaft nut, this can be done at the beginning when car is on floor if you can get through centre cap, if not, impact gun or someone inside car using the brakes.

Undo 21mm nut/washer on top of struts, easier done with an impact gun.

Undo two 21mm bolts for the shock to hub assembly and pull out shock.

Remove drivers side shaft off of gearbox then pull out of hub.

Undo 3 x 13mm bolts on passenger side shaft, pull out of the hub first and then gearbox.

Undo 16mm bolt passenger side at the front of the subframe that holds the lower gearbox mount on.

Undo rear gearbox to subframe mount, Ph1 is two 16mm nut and bolts, unsure of Ph2, slightly different mount.

If on a Ph1 it's worth removing the actual mount from the gearbox as this can knock the PAS pipes.

Undo 13mm gear linkage nut, worth marking linkage as its a b*****d to get back on.

Back up top and remove 16mm nut from drivers side top engine mount.

Unplug loom plugs from top inlet. Throttle body, coil pack, map sensor, air temp sensor and ICV if Ph1. Also remove brake servo pipe and FPR vacuum hose if Ph1.

Remove top inlet, 7 x 10mm bolts.

Block up breather hole and 4 inlet holes, best using duck tape.

Undo 2 x 13mm nuts on fuel rail guard.

Unclip fuel lines and pull right out of the way.

You can now remove 9 x 10mm manifold nuts.

Undo clamp on water pump main pipe, thermostat pipe, expansion bottle x 2, top of thermostat housing, rear of thermostat housing and remove expansion bottle, 2 x 10mm nuts.

Now the two that go to the heater matrix are tough, you should be able to just push the two tabs in either side and pull off, but this is never the case. It's worth pulling and pulling until the pipe comes off and out and then you can remove these clamps. I'd then replace with some more constant tension clamps or jubilee clips.

That should now be all coolant pipes out the way.

Undo 19mm (?) nut assembly in the high pressure PAS line and un clip PAS switch plug, you'll need maybe a small jug just to catch fluid. Also undo constant tension clamp to the other line and pull off and bung some tissue in to catch any fluid. The flexible hose can now be moved out the way by putting under window wiper.

Pull out clutch cable and pull through passenger side wheel arch.

Undo 16mm bolt holding PAS pipe to gearbox.

Then in passenger side wheel arch undo 16mm bolt holding the thick earth strap to gearbox.

Unplug reverse switch and tuck into engine bay.

Open fuse box and unclip all 5 fuse holders and fuses, take a photo to remind what goes where.

Undo big white plug, plug that goes to ABS unit and unclip bank of relays and pull out of fuse box. Will also be a 13mm bolt holding the earth on just behind passenger side headlight.

Undo 4 x 13mm bolts that hold battery tray to chassis.

Undo 3 x 16mm bolts that hold battery tray to gearbox.

Undo 13/16mm(?) bolt on side of gearbox at the top holding PAS line on and pull line into arch out of the way.

Unplug lambda sensor(s) towards rear of engine bay.

Hook your engine crane up to the rear hoist mount on driver side and one on the front of the head. I usually wrap a chain around thermostat and secure it there but I take no responsibility in case it breaks!

When lifting gearbox will then drop and engine out at an angle.


I think that's everything, I may of missed little bits out but that's a fairly comprehensive guide from memory!

So in answer to your questions.

Gearbox (and loom) all stay attached to engine.
PAS pipes can mostly be tucked out of the way.
Subframe doesn't need to be touched.

 

[Cr33do]

^Good write up!

Its been a few months since we took our engine out but I don't think we actually removed the struts. Iirc we removed the lower ball joint bracket from the wishbone and this was enough to get the drive shafts out.

I will certainly refer to the above list though when we put it back in. It's a good checklist - nice one!

 

[DannyR]

Struts are a lot easier to take off I've found, hate doing ball joints!

I'll grab some pictures next time and get a proper guide up.

 

[mgoode180566]

be careful of the air con. that stuff is dangerous to breathe in and should really be removed professionally. unfortunately my hand slipped when i did mine and it leaked out !

 

[Dan519]

If it was me, I'd have the subframe off, and do both jobs in the car. I do have the benefit of a ramp and a brace to hold the engine up though

 

[DannyR]

Having a ramp or a pit it probably would be to take the subframe off admittedly.

I'm down to getting a engine out in 2 hours on the drive though and with the above guide I'd like to think it could be done by someone with moderate experience in 3 hours.

Plus with all these captive nuts rusting and breaking its a safer bet removing engine from the top

 

[Dan519]

IF the engine has to come out, I always go out the top.

 

[DannyR]

Of course, I just meant that rather than subframe off to get gearbox out, easier to take all out the top.

 

[D1CKY]

Cheers for the replies guys.

Thats the engine/gearbox out, f**k me it was a tight squeeze.
Getting it level was fun as was inching it out bit by bit as there was bugger all space at the pulleys side and the alternator pulley caught a few times.
My + terminal nut on the alternator kept spinning the wholeterminal stud/post due to corrosion so i had to break the ring connector to remove the wire, it was the same with the starter motor.
both were working fine and putting out good current before removal too
So i will have a go at removing them now the engine is out and its easier to work on.
I hope i can grip something then remove the nut or its new altenator/starter time.
Then its onto replacing the clutch.

 

[DannyR]

Use two spanner or socket and spanner to loosen them.