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High rpm clutch drag. Is it normal?



  2002 Clio II Ph2 172
Hello.

Clio Ph2 172, all stock.
If i put my car in 1st from a standstill, and rev all the way to red-line while always fully keeping the clutch pedal down, the car starts to slowly creep forward on its own, with a vibration and slight burning clutch smell. This only happens after 6200 rpms all the way to 7200. Is this normal? shouldnt i be able to freely rev to redline without the clutch engaging on its own, without it dragging? What worries me the most about this is high rpm shifting. I have been told that this is to be considered normal?

Box always shifts fine during everyday use. Typical synchromesh feel everywhere, but really high rpm shifts sometimes are bit too notchy..? Literally redlined 4th the other day and was a bit too quick on the upshift to 5th and got a slight grind, it felt like i wasnt fully putting the clutch pedal down.
Fifth, as all other gears, is always nice going in at lower rpms. I think it was the slight clutch drag at high rpms.

Clutch engagment is about halfway, and auto adjuster and cable seem fine. Clutch fork travel seems within spec.

Should i try putting a new valeo kit in? What if it keeps behaving the same? Is a slight rpm clutch drag normal on these cars, and do we just take it easier on higher rpms if we want things to last a bit longer? Maybe its a sligthly worn pressure plate?

Thank you very much.

@NorthloopCup
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
Ok so flywheel is bolted to the crank, the clutch cover is bolted to the flywheel, so when you redline it with the clutch depressed, you will still be spinning the gearbox input shaft. That’s normal, but I wouldn’t be revving it like that at a standstill personally.

Gears feeling notchy is worth dropping the oil out and refilling with redline mtl. But mechanical sympathy is key to success with the Jc5. If you start rushing the box, you’ll kill synchros and gears/dog teeth.
 
  2002 Clio II Ph2 172
Thanks for the response. So i guess that slight high rpm clutch drag may be unavoidable then?
This guy describes exactly what is happening in my case, and says it should not happen.. he even tests it the same way. : https://www.jackstransmissions.com/blogs/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros

Could a better performance clutch kit prevent it?

Maybe i should just accept it, leave it as it is and take it easy with the box... Its no big deal really. Everyone says these boxes do not like being rushed, anyway. Its all just physics in the end. And cheap drivetrains.

Using the correct ELF NFJ oil by the way.

Thank you.
 
  2002 Clio II Ph2 172
Yeah, ill just leave at it is. Its no big deal really, and ill just take is as being normal then. 200000kms on factory gearbox and engine and still going strong. I intend to keep it like that for as long as possible. Really like this car.
Just regular maintenance. And a few odd bits like new injectors and so on.

Thank you all for the responses, and the helpful forum.
 

Brigsy

ClioSport Club Member
  Kangoo 172cup
Normal, when drag racing you use the handbrake or a stage brake to stop creep whilst in gear with clutch down before launch.
 
  2002 Clio II Ph2 172
UPDATE: I fitted a new powerflex insert on the upper engine mount, and a new transmission upper mount, and already had a powerflexed dogbone before.
BUT my lower transmission mount was loose on the lower stud! I could move it with a steel bar. It literally took a few turns on the bolt to tighten it back up! The one that connects to the subframe directly. This lower trans mount is some kind of racing mount, it does not have the usual rubber support piece.
Torqued everything according to spec and now everything feels as it should. It feels great at all rpms. Lots of vibrations, and the added mechanical noises are cool! LOL
Also the sudden vibration (thats what scared me the most, it was harsh!) after roughly 6200 rpms that i also described on my first post is gone.
Much better shifting when going near redline.

Always check your mounts! (y)
 


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