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Idle Too High?



  BMW M135i
Have had a wierd problem develop yesterday evening, basically when cold you can rev the car and it'll hold idle at 1500-2000rpm then slowly decrease (sometimes not) and when its warm its not as bad but the car doesn't loose revs like it did before much more slowly and sometimes holds.

Any ideas? I'm thinking possible throttle body?

I've had it off and cleaned all the gunk out of it and no change, and theres no air leaks I can find either.
 
Have had a wierd problem develop yesterday evening, basically when cold you can rev the car and it'll hold idle at 1500-2000rpm then slowly decrease (sometimes not) and when its warm its not as bad but the car doesn't loose revs like it did before much more slowly and sometimes holds.

Any ideas? I'm thinking possible throttle body?

I've had it off and cleaned all the gunk out of it and no change, and theres no air leaks I can find either.

Did I see you yesterday heading down from the M69 A5 junction?

The FBW throttle body off my 182 is sat in my shed. PM me if you want to try it.
 
  Clio 182
when i start mine from cold its like 1350 ish? have you looked at air filter or MAF sensor?
Just ideas.
 
  BMW M135i
Cold idle level is fine, so is the hot idle its just that it never uses them! Filter is fine, the 172 F4R uses MAP instead of MAF and that looks fine too.
 
  BMW M135i
Thought this as well but the engine temp gauge doesn't move about, and it doesn't hold the cold idle anyway. Usually way above that, had it holding at 2krpm earlier.
 
  White R26/Stripped Valver
This has started on my car, even though its old lol, after my ecu went and got a new one it started, so for me its sounds like a tuning problem. But not sure if it could be the same thing for your car.
 
  BMW M135i
Erm, can you not get a diagnostic test run on it? Would tell you straight off... ring the aa?

Was thinking of getting a fault code reader on it but its not showing any warning lights so I doubt theres been any faults stored. Its not like its in limp home mode, its very strange as it still drives fine apart from this.
 
  Clio MkII 172 K reg
Even if there isn't any light in dash, It is not always tell that there is no fault stored in ECU. I found out this yesterday. Coennected it to CLIP and saw fault in knock sensor but there wasn't any light in dash.

Connect it to Diagonstic to be sure.
 
  BMW M135i
I've got a fault code reader coming in the post to check on that one, i'm also borrowing a throttle pedal and body from MarkM so hopefully should be able to narrow it down between those two.
 
  BMW M135i
Righto, need to bump this back up as the problem has returned. I refuse to believe another throttle body has died in the space of 5 weeks or so.

Anything else to check other than the above? Fault codes show nothing.
 
  LY 182
you may want to get a decent code reader/clip on it as im not too sure on renaults but on fords pending fault codes wont turn the mil light on only actuals, and the pendings arent stored in the code memory they are only stored in freeze frame data
 
  Clio MkII 172 K reg
Few weeks ago, I posted thread about it and you told me that my TB is dying.
Now, After I posted the thread for few weeks it was ok until a week ago.
I found that with my big legs, I touched by accident the TB Electronic cable that runs from the pedal sensor to the UCH unit and clips in the way to clutch pedal that just hold it. After it started again, I started to shake this cable and check the connection between to connectors (near the clutch pedal) and the idle just decreased and became as it suppost to be.
Just follow the connection between the acceleraotor sensor (hella stuff if somebody intersted) to the UCH unit. In the way check the connectors on the clutch pedal (you won't missed it).
I did this when it happened to me, and it's gone.
I blame as we all, The french stupied electric and the way they put it in the car.:mad:
 
  BMW M135i
you may want to get a decent code reader/clip on it as im not too sure on renaults but on fords pending fault codes wont turn the mil light on only actuals, and the pendings arent stored in the code memory they are only stored in freeze frame data

Nothing in the freeze frame data either.
 
  BMW M135i
Few weeks ago, I posted thread about it and you told me that my TB is dying.
Now, After I posted the thread for few weeks it was ok until a week ago.
I found that with my big legs, I touched by accident the TB Electronic cable that runs from the pedal sensor to the UCH unit and clips in the way to clutch pedal that just hold it. After it started again, I started to shake this cable and check the connection between to connectors (near the clutch pedal) and the idle just decreased and became as it suppost to be.
Just follow the connection between the acceleraotor sensor (hella stuff if somebody intersted) to the UCH unit. In the way check the connectors on the clutch pedal (you won't missed it).
I did this when it happened to me, and it's gone.
I blame as we all, The french stupied electric and the way they put it in the car.:mad:

Will give it a try, doubt its that because last time I disconnected/reconnected that cable a fair few times and it made no difference.
 
You know your stuff so if you cant fix it then im doubting anyone on here will know... I would say mechanical over electric if there is no fault codes

Possible air leak in the plenum maybe?
 
  BMW M135i
Nope no leak and i'm almost sure it'll be electrical.

Has anyone got a contact email for MarkM? Need to get in touch to see if I could borrow some parts off him again but can't pm him because he's banned for whatever reason.
 
  CB600FS
Ben have you checked the connections in the pedal?

Whats your temp gauge doing aswell - I've had a few coolant temp sensors cause that, it doesn't throw a light on the dash either. It'd just run really high/rich and almost cut out in excessive cases.
 
  BMW M135i
Ben have you checked the connections in the pedal?

Whats your temp gauge doing aswell - I've had a few coolant temp sensors cause that, it doesn't throw a light on the dash either. It'd just run really high/rich and almost cut out in excessive cases.

Temp gauge is steady thought it might be that initially but the temp gauge operates as normal. Connections seem fine, have waggleded them around and can't get revs to change or any response.

Has has got a spare throttle pedal i'm going to try later on tonight if that makes no difference then i'm going to have to get hold of another throttle body to try that.
 
  BMW M135i
Its strange because I changed the throttle body 6 weeks ago with the same fault and it went away after that. Then suddenly its back again was fine in the morning and fooked in the afternoon.
 
  BMW M135i
Right, tried a new throttle body today and no change. Its also been on clip and no faults logged and reset everything and still no change.

Changed the plugs from super 4s to normal bosch ones and its got slightly better, got some of the proper ngk's coming in the post sometime too.

Any other ideas? ECU possible? Runs fine otherwise so i'm not jumping on the ecu straight away, but it is the only other link in the throttle chain really. Unless its the ecu revving the engine in responce to another condition.
 
Low battery power or check the throttle pedal and connnectro when they get loose or disconnect the engine revs up.
 
  Impreza STI v5
had the same well sounds the same for about a month and a half changed the battery and it has cured it the old one must have been fooked and not giving out enough volts or somthing like that and making the ecu do funnie things so woth getting it checked out m8
 
  172 A Cupwork Orange™
engine temperature sensor i'd agree this reason being i had a citroen xsara once which had the exact same probs as yours was something to do with the car thinking it was cold all the time and thus the choke was on constantly overfueling it, my temp sensor on my dash looked normal also, now im not saying this is the prob just a coincidence there both french and both have the same symptoms lol
 
  Clio MkII 172 K reg
Does the fuel consumption is average or changed to worse ?
(mine is about 10.5 kilometers for city/inter-city).
Lior
 
  BMW M135i
Fuel consumption never changed, deffo isn't a coolant temp sensor fault as its no different when warm. Its not the battery either, healthy 12.5-13v and 14.4v when charging also it was changed 6 months ago.

Its a very strange problem because it won't do it in neutral, only when you drive with it.

After changing the plugs and a run to leeds and back yesterday (250 miles) all seems well this morning its back to normal. Have got the NGK plugs so will fit them this afternoon as a matter of cause but other than that i'm left with just hoping it won't return even though i'm pretty sure it will.

Also to add its back running on its original throttle body now, not the one I replaced 6 weeks ago!
 
  Clio MkII 172 K reg
If you remember, few weeks ago you told me (in another thread) that the problem is TB. Sorry to hear that you have trouble with new one. If I was you, I would take the new TB back to renault (if they told you to replace it at first).
As I said before, the problem in my opinion is in pedal sensor or its loom but hope for you that it cured.

What plugs you put in ? NGK PFR6E- 10 ?

Lior
 
  LY 182
only when you drive it you say? on fords they suffer alot with speed sensors on the gearbox that cause the exact same fault.
on them we just tend to unplug them.
if your car has the speed sensor on the gearbox not through the abs i would change that the speedo still works normally but can cause engine management problems.
 
  172 A Cupwork Orange™
Mine xsare one was exactly the same wether cold or warm mate thats what im saying, your car thinks its cold constantly and will have the choke on constantly because of it,
it uses a tiny tiny bit more fuel but not enough for u to notice u could rev it up and the revs would stay on 2-3k and go down slowly seriously sounds like its the same fault...

i changed allsorts lamb sensors fuel filters etc etc untill i got it on the reader that told me what it was
 
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  BMW M135i
I could be that then, but usally in the Clio when the temp sensor is shot the temp gauge on the dash will float all over the shop and it'll start running rough not just idling high.

That and as it stands all is well, hence why its a very strange fault.
 
  172 A Cupwork Orange™
mine was intermittent would be fine for a couple of days then went like that for days etc,

was a strange one

personaly.. i'd get in in a gge and let them whack it on the comp for a check

when i got my xsara one done it cost £69.00 for fitting inc parts etc which i though was ok as id changed allmost everyother fook'in part lol
hope you sort mate
 
  BMW M135i
As i've said above its been on clip thursday and nothing and i'd bet money its not the CTS, i've seen them shot before and its doesn't behave like this.
 


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