IF I were to change springs what else should I do at the same time?

[RichB]

Hi Guys
I'm just looking into my options and have noticed the cooksport springs being quite popular. I use my clio once a week to drive to the office and at weekends for trackdays etc when I have the time. If I was to get cooksport springs should I change my dampers and if so what is the best solution? New OEM dampers, Trophy dampers or another aftermarket option? (My clio has the cup pack dampers)

Also if I was to do this is it worth changing anything else whilst the suspension is off like the top mounts etc? I dont want to go OTT with anything like solid mounts but I'm not adverse to poly bushing etc.

 

[banther]

Cooksports with OEM Dampers seem to be the fashion.

I'm sure someone who knows things about cars will be able to assist you more

 

[Goodj]

Depends what the mileage is on your existing suspension.
Whacking lowering springs on 120k-old dampers may swiftly lead to knackered dampers, for instance.

 

[Diagro]

I would suggest replacing the shocks all round.

They are around 38 each for cup ones

 

[ldubl]

Sounds like yours is mainly a toy as you're lucky enough to only drive to the office once a week!

Cooksports would be a good option as they handle really well, give a low stance and are good value. Currently have these with the Trophy dampers and it does handle very well. Considering sportlines myself as more compliant for my daily commute.

Trophy dampers are very expensive to buy and maintain, so depends on your budget. Twingo R1 dampers are the new version from Renault, £1000+. H&R coilovers are a good alternative, but again pricey. The evo buying guide mentioned that dampers, esp rear ones, can be past their best after 20k so refreshing with std cup dampers should improve handling for less than £200!

I'm planning on oem suspension refresh: wishbones (come with bushes & ball joints); track rods; track rod ends; arb & steering bushes.
Was considering polybushing but again, as it's my dd, I want to avoid added vibrations / squeaking etc. As yours is mainly a weekend / track toy, polybushing could be a good idea.

When I do springs & dampers, I'll do top mounts. Not researched std / poly / solids on these yet but will prob stick to oem.

 

[Martin_172]

as a minimum id stick new dampers and top bearings on but ideally I would want to do track rods and track rod ends too then have it setup on a hunter machine.

if your flush with cash you can look at lower arms too which come with new bushes and ball joints and replace the ARB bushes while its in bits, altho the inner ones are fiddley!

 

[DaveDreads]

I didn't change a damn thing when I put Eibach Prolines on mine,
7 years later and my standard dampers and top mounts are still going strong
and i've done trackdays with them too.

 

[AlexW]

Doesn't mean yours couldn't be a lot better though dave.

Minimum I'd want to do is at least check the condition of the shocks, top mounts and balljoints etc. If its not broke, don't fix it. I'd imagine your shocks, and top mounts are probably a bit past it, and for the price of shocks, it could well be worth it.

 

[Drew!]

I keep seeing the recommendation when refreshing the suspension to go for the cup dampers opposed to standard items, what the reason behind this.
Are they a stronger unit with a larger diameter shaft?
Do they have different valveing to the stock items?

 

[AlexW]

I keep seeing the recommendation when refreshing the suspension to go for the cup dampers opposed to standard items, what the reason behind this.
Are they a stronger unit with a larger diameter shaft?
Do they have different valveing to the stock items?

Don't quote me on this, but I think they are valved differently, No larger shaft. Supposed to be a litle stiffer.

As they cost no more than standard dampers, its a bit of a no brainer to go for them if you're replacing anyway!

 

[172_Tom]

Surprised nobody has mentioned camber bolts yet - they are only £20. I had mine set up to about 2 degrees negative camber, handling is great on the road and I haven't really suffered any uneven tyre wear on track. I've heard of cars with standard camber wearing front tyres on the outside edges.

My car was on 107k when I got it - at least one of the rear shocks had been replaced before and one of the front shocks was knackered. I replaced the whole lot with brand new cup items with Eibach Pro-kit springs and the handling is now spot on and very predictable. Top mounts on mine were fine (not sure if originals or not) but I replaced all the dust covers too as they had seen better days. I find my set up a bit too soft for dry tracks but excellent for the road.

If you want to spend a bit more then do the front wishbones (and possibly poly bush them) and front ARB bushes too. Decent, matching tyres will also make a nice difference if you've currently got budget/mid range ones or mis matched makes on the same axle.