I'm new and interested in a Clio 1.8 16v.

[Danny-ACE!]

Hello there!
I'm Danny and I would like to say hello to everyone as I am new here.

I am going to look at a 1993 Clio 16v 1.8 tomorrow. I was wondering if theres anything I should look out for when looking at it.

I am going to ask when the cam belt was last changed and I know that the oil filter and oil has been changed recently because he said it was a pain in the arse!

So yeah, If you could give me the usual things to check and enquire about then I would greatly appriciate it.

Thanks very much!

Danny.

 

[Rich]

Welcome to CS.

Hope you find a nice valver.

Normal checks apply, I am sure someone will give you specifics though. Look out for rotten rear arches.

 

[Rhino172]

hey, welcome to the club....

just look for the usual realy, as said rusty rear arch is common, stearing rack/column can be a bit dodge but I'm not 100% sure on how to check for that....


what mileage is it on, any idea?

 

[Maz]

Hi Danny welcome to cliosport

 

[Justin]

yeah rusty arches, leaking sunroof (if it has one?) and camelt are the main ones!

 

[White16valver]

Don't forget to check if the sunroof works or leaks! lol

Check all the electric things work and, if he takes you out in it, see if he canes it from cold. If he does then perhaps steer clear... they all sound a little noisy from cold but should soon clear once warmed up. Check it doesn't run hot (water temperature guage next to the speedo or oil temperature guage in the bank of 3 dials in the middle). Check the oil pressure is good - should vary between 0.5-1bar at idle when warm to about 3-4 bar when at speed. Should be nice and high on start up from cold as well!

 

[Danny-ACE!]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

I know its got about 95,000 miles on the clock and that it has a sun roof that is fully functionable.

So you call them valvers? I saw another thread about them and what to look out for but I didn't know thats what you called them. I will go and have a read of it!

Thanks again.

 

[Danny-ACE!]

Thanks to this guy!

Oh dear god. The list is quite long mate.

Rust:

Rear arches

I would open the rear side windows and check under where each end of the rubber seal joins as that can harbour rust

Have a feel under the scuttle panel as well, underneath the lower edge of the windscreen (going via the plastic cowling openings) for rust. Again the seal at the base of the windscreen is poor and sludge can build up over time and I suspect there are lots out there with potential problems in this area that they don't know of.

Tailgate drainage holes rust as well

Mechanically:

Check CV gaitors, blue smoke, mayo in oil cap, general listen at the engine for tappety-ness and how it idles. Idling problems can be a ballache to sort.

Check shockers for leaks and check the struts for play which can be the top mounts going. Check for play in the steering with the steering lock off but no engine. Steering column bushes are a common failure. Check the gearbox for it popping out of gear, and also check the clutch. They are quite heavy anyway but should not be excessively so. If they are either the cable is fecked, the clutch is going or (as inmy case) the wrong cable was fitted.

Check brakes obviously and all fluid levels. Keep an eye on the coolant temps when it's up to temp. Should sit at the 2nd mark 2/3rds of the way up the gauge. Oil temp should be 90-110 and pressure should be about 3 bar at cold idle falling when warm to between 0-1. Should rise healthily when moving to 5-6 when cold or 3-4 when warm.

Then beyond that it's the usual checks really.

Good luck.

Constant Velocity joint rubber gaitors. There's one each end of the driveshafts. Check for splits or signs of the grease/oil leaking.

Belts should be every 70k/5yrs but tbh they should be done more often than that. More like every 40k.

Check the sunrrof for leaks. They're a bugger to fix as well.

 

[White16valver]

Think that's covered most things! lol

Check for tyre wear that is even (uneven might just be tracking - inside edge worn on both front tyres could be if it is lowered) and also try to feel where the spring sits in the front suspension cup - the spring 'end' should come to an end and just be flat, like the end of a sealed pipe - if it's jagged then the spring has snapped and will need replacing. (Well, you don't have to, but you can use it to knock him down lol)

 

[White16valver]

oh, check the front foglights in the front bumper aren't smashed - they're about £40 each if they are.

 

[White16valver]

Feel free to take some pics and tell him you'll get back to him and then post them up by the way - we can offer our opinion on it then!

Don't be suckered in if it doesn't feel right! lol

 

[Danny-ACE!]

Thanks alot!

I will take some pictures of it.

Its been lowered quite alot. I think he said 90mm rear and 40-60mm on the front. Saves me having to fart around with the torsion bar anyway!

Its had a new clutch and it has a Cat 1 alarm and immobiliser. 2 new tyres on the front and the oil and oil filter changed.

I did a brief scan round of the car and couldn't see anything wrong with it but I'll have a better look tomorrow.

Cheers!

Danny

 

[Danny-ACE!]

Hey,
Just thought I'd let you know.

I went to see it today. Just got back. Its in great condition and I am buying it as soon as my car has been sold. Hopefully I will sell it soon and I hopefully will see some of you down at the French car show.

Ill be back soon with pictures! BYE!

 

[Timmay]

welcome to CS mate by the way!

 

[dannyboy]

dont forget to check for wheel bearing whinning, thats quite a common fault too!

 

[GarethM]

welcome to the club fella, hope you find a nice valver.

 

[neil80]

dont forget to check for wheel bearing whinning, thats quite a common fault too!

How do you check for that as i think mine might have developed that noise!!!! Hums at certain rpm whilst driving????

Wheel bearing????

Neil