Immobiliser Troubles, i think.

[mattPH2]

So my immobiliser has been playing up since i bought my car (1.4 mk2 ph2). Basically when i try to start it the immobiliser light either flashes or stays solid.

I have noticed it seems to flash when i use one key, but stay solid when i use the other... when it stays solid and i turn the ignition off the light doesn't start flashing again until after about 7 seconds...to me that indicates the car has picked up the signal from that key but doesn't want to start for another reason.

Earlier, after being stuck at the petrol station for about an hour, i turned the key real quick and it tried to turn over but obviously didnt start.... the next attempt the car started straight away (this was with the key that makes the light solid).

Is there a link between that light and the fuel pump? i know the car will start and the immobiliser light will go out because i can hear the fuel pump priming... if its not gonna start you can just hear a small 'clunk'.

Can anyone help?

 

[mattPH2]

Oh yeah, ive tried changing the batteries in both the keys and checked the fuses.

 

[Bassplayer]

A long shot. I had a problem with my 182 starting for a second then stopping. It turned out to be the battery, even though it would crank the engine. Also the terminals were a bit corroded. Worth a try?

 

[CSSMerkage]

Hi Matt,

Ive been having an issue with my 1.4 16v and starting. Like you go to crank and you just get a relay click from the fuse box area and thats all. By getting out and locking and opening the car again it makes a tone so it acknowlegdes something isnt right. Some times itll then it will crank but only for 2 seconds and then stop. Im pointing at the UCH in my case. Through a series of trial and error when I really needed the car to start I found that pulling the UCH fuses from the fuse box (and reinserting them) with the ignition on causes something to click back and the car can then be started.

Might get you out of a situation if its the same problem, No full solution yet though, havent noticed what the stimulus is for it to happen. My battery is good and all earth straps etc are secure.

Lemme know if you find a fix,

Cheers,

Pete

 

[Mike@Rentech]

New key required Approx £150

 

[mattPH2]

Cheers Pete, il give that one a go next time it happens.

I have been reading about new keys being needed, though its strange how two different lights are being produced by using different keys. And also why does the immobiliser light not start flashing for about 7 seconds after the keys been removed after a solid lights produced.

It'd be interesting to know what a solid light means and what a flashing light means...anyone?

 

[RoryW]

I had the same issue on my 172. Turn it quick and no luck but 9 out of 10 times it would start after that. £78 for a brand new key and blade programmed to the car using a local company. Think they were called foxtec. Repaired my old key too which only cost £13 to repair.

 

[mattPH2]

Cheers Rory, everyone seems to be saying a new key. What light was being produced with your car? was it flashing or staying solid?

I read this on another forum...

"I've always found that a solid red light usually means the UCH can't get a response from engine ecu. Flashing usually means the UCH isn't happy with the key."

I'll have a check over the wiring tomorrow when its light and check over the fuses and relays too. Im a bit reluctant to spend £150 on a new key when it could be something else...

 

[mattPH2]

Pete, i just had it happen when i was trying to start the car this morning.

Solid light produced
Left the key turned in the ignition
Unplugged the UCH fuse....Click
Plugged it back in....Click

Tried to start it again and it fired up as it should... So people, what does this indicate?

Ive checked the relays, they all seem fine, and i cant see any problems with the wiring?

 

[RoryW]

It I got a solid light I'd leave the ignition on for 10 seconds, turn off an then turn on an it would start. If I got a flashing light I'd sit then turning it until it either started OR I'd get the solid light and do above.

The company I used didn't mean the key code from renault either, they read it from the car and provided me the keys and code for future reference if ever needed.

I might have a vid of my issue, I'll check it out.

 

[mattPH2]

So a new key sorted out the issue all together? no solid or flashing lights now?

Does your new key have the button to unlock the car or is it just the blade with the transponder in it?

Cheers for your help.

 

[Paul89]

Dont know if this will help but my 182 immobilised itself last night and i just got the STOP button on the dash light up with The Red dot staying on.

I locked/unlocked the car, turned ignition all the way on for 45 seconds then off for 45 seconds then back on for 45 seconds then of again for 45 seconds. Then turn key all the way to start and it worked. keeping the key in the ignition throughout the whole process.

 

[RoryW]

So a new key sorted out the issue all together? no solid or flashing lights now?

Does your new key have the button to unlock the car or is it just the blade with the transponder in it?

Cheers for your help.

For my money (above) I got a genuine Renault key and blade. That obviously includes blip etc. Same as your current key but massive difference is it starts the car

I've not had a single issue since. Starts everytime which means no more going to get petrol at 11pm just so I avoid the looks if it doesn't start lol

 

[mattPH2]

I've not had a single issue since. Starts everytime which means no more going to get petrol at 11pm just so I avoid the looks if it doesn't start lol

Yeah, i know exactly what you mean!

Right, auto locksmith is getting called tomorrow.

I'll report back.

 

[RoryW]

Obviously make sure they have the ability to read the code from ecu because chances are he won't be able to read the code from your dead(ish) key.

I needed a 2nd key anyway so I thought I'd just bite the bullet. Gotta be done unfortunately fella

 

[mattPH2]

I think im gonna use these guys, their head office is only about 5 mins away from me... http://www.locksmithsmidlands.co.uk/

I will call them in the morning and get a price first though. Seems legit...

 

[mattPH2]

The problem seems to have been fixed! I ended up taking it to Renault, it turns out they were cheaper than calling out an auto locksmith from round here. People were quoting me £160... it was £150 from Renault with a genuine fob.


Cheers for the help guys!