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IT WORKS!



  Golf GTI PP Mk7
Just a personal victory for me really. Ever since my clutch cable was first changed, the racelogic traction control on my willy hasnt worked, the guy unplugged the battery and ever since its been dead.

So on friday i had the racelogic box out (located behind the washer fluid bottle), cleaned all the connectros up, gave the cable a clean, plugged it all back in, started the engine and on came the light! WOO!!

Took her for a drive yesterday, 1st gear, stamp foot to floor (after its warmed up obv) and it just pulled straight through 1st, 2nd and 3rd with no spin at all, and on these roads this time of year, thats not bad!

sorry for the essay, but im of very little mechanical persuasion so stuff like that gets me excited! lol.
 
  Golf GTI PP Mk7
for those interested in how it works;

IMG_2954-1.jpg


1. Turns it on/off
2. Dry/Wet Setting, bout 12-15 clicks between each so u can adjust how much it intervenes.

Even in the pouring rain, on full wet setting you can just floor in and it pulls nicely with no spin.
 
  Renaultsport Clio 197
hmmm...sounds nice but I can't see how it can PULL nicely if it works like ESP (cutting of the throttle) .Surely it wont pull like it would in the dry !?

When I turn the ESP ON in my 197 an floor it in the rain it just judders and wiggles in place lol
So I turn it off and apply the throttle gently (btw, a little wheelspin never hurts:eek: )
 
  Golf GTI PP Mk7
hmmm...sounds nice but I can't see how it can PULL nicely if it works like ESP (cutting of the throttle) .Surely it wont pull like it would in the dry !?

When I turn the ESP ON in my 197 an floor it in the rain it just judders and wiggles in place lol
So I turn it off and apply the throttle gently (btw, a little wheelspin never hurts:eek: )

no theres no juddering.

as i understand it, theres sensors on the front and back wheels, and it detacts when the front wheels are spinning up alot quicker than the back ones, then cuts one or more spark plugs (thats how it was explained to me anyway).

this is what it says about the system on the racelogic site:

The system works by monitoring the speed of all four wheels using the ABS system or specially fitted sensors. When wheelspin is detected the engine power is reduced, by cutting a single injector pulse or a spark, until grip is resumed. This occurs in a thousandth of a second, and appears to the driver as a slight miss-fire with no loss in acceleration.
Maximum acceleration is achieved by limiting the slip between the tyre and the road. The point at which a tyre is just beginning to slip against the road gives the maximum coefficient of friction value.



slipgraph.gif


From the graph above it can be seen the maximum coefficient of friction (µ) occurs at a slip between tyre and road of 10% when dry, and around 5% when wet.
Maintaining this level of slip is inherently difficult, as the grip levels drop off significantly above these levels, meaning the balance between too much wheelspin and not enough power is very fine.
To drive the car and search for these levels of slip is very difficult, the moment the wheels start spinning too much (and how do you feel what is too much?) the power has to be reduced (by what amount?).
Top rally drivers have a good feeling for this limit, but they still tend to stay on the side of caution, and modulate the wheelspin between 10-20%, as this will still achieve 90% of the available traction. The closer to 5 or 10% slip, the higher the chance of reducing the power too much, and hindering acceleration, but also the closer you are to using 100% of the available traction.
The main reason for this is the response time of a human being. The fastest human reaction to a sense stimulus is 1/10th of a second, and the fastest acting throttle reacts in around the same time. This means there is a 2/10ths of a second lag between the wheel reaching a critical slip level, and the driver being able to change the amount of power being applied. This is why really good drivers tend to drive between 10 and 20% slip, to give a margin of safety should the tyres suddenly find a little more grip, causing the wheel to stop spinning completely.
Less experienced drivers will tend to allow 20-30% or more slip, again to maintain wheelspin rather then let the car 'bog' down, thus limiting their grip levels to around 85% of their maximum.
With the advent of fast reacting electronics on cars, this problem has been tackled with Traction Control systems. In race cars, Traction Control Systems have two functions, number one is to maintain the precise level of slip that will give close to 100% of the available grip, and number two is to maintain stable cornering. These two functions are linked, but require slightly different approaches.
The speed of reaction of a race Traction Control System is critical in maintaining a precise level of slip. The electronics themselves can react within a thousandth of a second, but to remain effective the engine power has to be quickly, and precisely controlled.
In road cars Traction Control normally relies on two methods of reducing the speed of the spinning wheel, brake application and throttle intervention. Brake application is a very effective and quick way of reducing the speed of a spinning wheel (almost unusable in a race situation - more later) but the accompanying throttle intervention is mechanically slow, and will also only reduce the airflow, which takes some time to become effective. On a road car the Traction Control System plays a third role, one of safety, in this role the level of slip is reduced to zero, and held there. This results in a very stable car, but one which will not accelerate at it's maximum potential at all times.
Race Traction Control Systems rely on much more precise, and faster acting ways of reducing power. The first method is shutting off fuel to the engine, and the other is cutting out the spark. Both methods have exactly the same high speed modulation ability, but the spark cutting system will happen potentially one cycle earlier. The magnitude of difference in reaction times between spark cut and fuel cut is negligible compared with the difference between throttle actuation and spark/fuel cut. (See fuel cut and spark cut below)
The Traction Control System then comes down to the interaction between the information from the wheel speed sensors and the level of power reduction applied. A good system would be capable of maintaining a level of slip that is adjustable depending on conditions.
Many factors affect the ideal level of slip, wet / dry conditions, speed of the vehicle, lateral g-force (cornering), tyre compound, tyre pressures etc. Ideally the driver should be able to dial in a base level of slip that takes into account weather and tyres, and the system should adjust automatically for speed of the vehicle and lateral g-force.
When cornering, the system should reduce the amount of slip available, to prevent lateral slip from occurring, and vary this amount depending on the speed of the vehicle. At high speed, low grip situations, this slip should be around 1-2% to maintain forward momentum, and at low speed high grip situations, this can be much higher.
 
  Tangoed Works
hmmm...sounds nice but I can't see how it can PULL nicely if it works like ESP (cutting of the throttle) .Surely it wont pull like it would in the dry !?

When I turn the ESP ON in my 197 an floor it in the rain it just judders and wiggles in place lol
So I turn it off and apply the throttle gently (btw, a little wheelspin never hurts:eek: )

standard esp / traction systems are shite in comparision to a full blown racelogic jobbie.
 
  Golf GTI PP Mk7
cool fella does this mean we get to see it again or are you still thinking of changing

it was sold, then the sale fell through, at this rate ill be keeping it, lol!

its just sat there in the garage atm so im just spending time tinkering and tidying up little bits that i can.
 


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