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Lightweight 182 Audio Upgrade



mikeh

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy
I grabbed a few pics of the fitment for anyone interested. I'm quite happy that it was possible to fit is all discretely.

New vs. Old - If this doesn't offer a decent improvement once driven properly, I don't know what will!

50950302653_26309fbe19_b.jpg
by mikehhhhhhh, on Flickr

50950318508_eec1a604e9_b.jpg
Untitled by mikehhhhhhh, on Flickr

50951010366_e0d010cee8_b.jpg
by mikehhhhhhh, on Flickr

50950302618_9c2a4bd4e3_b.jpg
Untitled by mikehhhhhhh, on Flickr

and the rear;
50950302593_4d839c5b5d_b.jpg
by mikehhhhhhh, on Flickr
 

mikeh

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy
45w RMS at 2 ohms but nearley all car spears are 4 ohms so the power is halved to 22.5 RMS.
In a ideal world you would match amplifier power to the speakers.
Alpine head units rated at 50W x 4 are 18W RMS X4

Where did you see that the power rating is at 2 Ohms?

The manual says 4x 100w at 2 ohm / 4 ohm. Which is confusing, but I think it means that you achieve 100w per channel either way because when you drive a sub directly (the only time you're running at 2ohm, which is configured via a menu) you give up two channels to do so.
 
  megane 285 sport
Its telling you theres 2ohm speaker load option, for running more than one speaker on a channel. not that its 45w rms at 2 ohm. Click the 2 at the end of the statement and it tells you.
 

mikeh

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy
It's 4x45w RMS at 4 Ohm. I believe it achives 45w RMS at 2 Ohms for the direct driven sub by combining both rear channels.

On the plus side, I got it fitted this afternoon along with finishing off the speakers etc. and it's a huge improvement even before I've messed with any settings or got around to adding some sound deadening.
 

Touring_Rob

ClioSport Club Member
Some amplifier topologies offer constant peak output power regardless of speaker impedance. A traditional Class A or AB is as you describe but some class D amplifiers deliberately reduce drive voltage to maintain output power.
 

mikeh

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy
So @mikeh

Have you had to run new wiring into the doors from the crossovers or have you used all the oem wiring?
Tempted by this now.
Yeah, I've cut into the OEM wiring close to the car side of the door plugs for the crossovers.

In hindsight,I probably make it more complicated than I needed to doing it that way. If I did it again, I'd probably do it from behind the headunit with an ISO extension loom to avoid modifying the factory wiring - that way there's no need to trace wires, either.
 

mikeh

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy
In my case i could just add the crossovers in the existing ISO lead couldnt i?
Where is the wiring split for the OEM mids/tweeters?
Absolutely.

It's not split per se as the filtering is done on the tweeter. The tweeter wire seems to come from the car side door plug. I didn't reuse the tweeter wire, though.
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
So if the crossovers were connected at the ISO lead, the OEM wiring to the doors would be used to power the mid drivers in the doors but then id run new cables from the crossovers just for the tweeters?
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member

mikeh

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy
They're £210 on Car Audio Centre, I've just ordered them from Dynamic Sounds for £158 delivered.
Now to investigate sound deadening that doesn't weigh the same as the sun.

Thanks for letting me know, Car Audio Centre have a price match promise, so I'll get in touch with them.
 

mikeh

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy
So more drama today. The stalk adapter I bought doesn't work and apparently I need to buy a more expensive CANBUS one.

 


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