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Lime Prime or Werkstatt Prime?
- Thread starter jimbo666
- Start date
Not really duck.
I own al 3 products actuall but anyway. I see LP on Prime as 2 different products. I would never use LP as a cleanser only because it's a little oily and that itself isn't a great base for topping but... used with the right pad 3m yellow for eg it can offer some correction by machine and I would only use LP by machine, there are better products by hand.
LP is almost a cleanser/light polisher and light glaze in one. You would go straight to LSP after LP although I wouldn't use a sealant due to the oils in LP.
Prime or primes strong, I use the later is probably the best cleanser on the market, the dirt it'll pull from paint even after polishing is incredible but it's a cleanser and awesome base, i'd always follow with a glaze, blackhole or EZ creme glaze (both acrylic) then your LSP of choice.
Use prime/strong on glass, lights, shuts for fantastic beading and sheeting. It's actually lasting just aslong as my dedicated windscreen sealant.
It should technically be the other way around fella. Why do you need the stronger product over the normal. If there is no requirement for it, I would just go with the standard stuff.
Then a warm strong solution of APC via foam lance is your answer chap. You won't be able to get in all the nooks and crannies with an applicator, whereas a foam will be able to reach those hard to reach places.
Prime is a pre cleaner, regardless of Strong or Standard.
Hmmm good question mate.
I choose strong as it like prime but a little tougher, my shuts get a lot of dirt in them compared with other cars so I wanted a decent cleanser that also left some awesome durability of it's own.
Also when I spoke to John he said that at a push Strong could be worked via DA but normal might not be as easy.
I choose strong as it like prime but a little tougher, my shuts get a lot of dirt in them compared with other cars so I wanted a decent cleanser that also left some awesome durability of it's own.
Also when I spoke to John he said that at a push Strong could be worked via DA but normal might not be as easy.
Strong would be more useful for really heavy soiling of paintwork, so for mine it might have been an idea as it is over 8 years old. For Gally's, again, same sort of age, I might suggest it.
But for an R27 that has clearly been looked after by yourself, I think Prime is technically overkill.
But for an R27 that has clearly been looked after by yourself, I think Prime is technically overkill.
M135i
I still have the Volvo to prep before i sell it, a future 172 cup that I'll replace it with and the general cars that I do on the side that do not always wish to have a machine polish.
As far as tardis goes, I've been using that for about two years. Brilliant stuff. I'm going to AS later to try and pick up a sample of their fallout remover. See if it can compare to ironX. I'm not too bothered about pretty purple stuff. The R27, as you can imagine, is covered in metal based fall out.
As far as tardis goes, I've been using that for about two years. Brilliant stuff. I'm going to AS later to try and pick up a sample of their fallout remover. See if it can compare to ironX. I'm not too bothered about pretty purple stuff. The R27, as you can imagine, is covered in metal based fall out.
Yours or mine, Kev?
Nothing in the slightest fella, just a laugh between Kev and I, nothing to worry about I promise.
