Mark 2 Ph1 172's... what are the weak points?

[andykaz]

Hi all,

AM seriously considering picking up one of the above. Have never had a French hot hatch, my history is a mk2 golf GTI, Honda Prelude, 200sx and a Mazda mx5 (current car).

The fundmaental difference between the above cars (and their forums) and this one is that this forum seems to be much more depreciative about the reliability and build quality of their cars (which is admirable, all of the above cars have their niggles, but people dont seem to want to talk about them).

So tell me, what things really go wrong with the 172's? What sort of mileage should the engine take (if looked after)? Is their history of HG failures. big ends going etc?

What about the suspension? Does it fail on very low mileage?

Rattles and squeaks are not something that scare me, i have never owned a car younger than 11 years old!

The thing i see repeatedly posted is to ensure the cambelt is changed on time, which is a service item and therefore acceptable imo.

So some honest views on the frailties would be much appreciated!

Thanks again

Andy

 

[V1NNY]

The rattles lol

 

[andykaz]

I can live with rattles, its issues that put the car off the road that concern me

 

[andykaz]

Anything else at all?

 

[Ad]

to be honest mate like most cars the wearable things need to be checked.

Couple of big things:
1. Check the cambelt has been done. 5yrs or 72k (costs around 350 specialist 550 renault)
2. Check clutch (Costs around 350)
3. service history is a much
4. Check for crash damage. Hot hatch, plenty out there have been crashed.

Alloy bonnet and shift light are more desirable features to have.

Dont worry about the steering wheels these always tend to look shabby.

4k gets you a decent one, but be prepared to look at a few. I looked at 7 before settling my current one.

Parts are fairly cheap so just haggle if some of them need changing.

tyres £40 a piece (michelin)
Shocks alround £200 a et (reno)
front dics pair £80 (reno)
front pads £40 (reno)

there is a full buyers guide if you pay a fiver and become a member. Hope that helps anyhow.

 

[Ad]

Just to add the engines are fairly bullet proof if serviced properly. Failure are very common. Head gasket is not common issue and neither is big end failure. The engines seem to take 200k easily and there are quite a few on 120k+ on here.

 

[Lagerlout]

Yep the engine is seemingly the most reliable part. Niggly electrical faults and general build issues apply to all of them.

Commonest fault I have seen on the mk2 ph1 172 is the cable for the throttle snapping or sticking.

 

[Ad]

^ funny you should say mine started that yesterday. Part is only £14 and fitted one to someones before and it took 20mins. So might be doing that this weekend.

 

[andykaz]

Thanks nfor the quick responses.

Nothing too scary there then. I was looking at spending circa 4.5K, but possibly at a dealers to get a 3 month warrenty, so i guess that the equivilant of about a £4K private sale?

Still having trouble trying to work out what equipment levels were on the ph1 172... anyone able to help me out?

 

[Ad]

equipment is roughly off the top of my head:

electric widows mirrors
AC
Leather and alcantra
leather steering wheel
Spare Alloy
sports front lights (although these arent xenons on the mk1)
Trip computer, mpg etc.
4 airbags
CD changer(under drivers seats on UK car)
Cat1 alarm (Uk cars)

Shift light and alloy bonnet seem to be randonly assigned to cars, some have none, one or both.

Any reason for going trade other than the warranty. Have a look on pistonheads, thats were i found mine.

 

[davebem]

Ive made a guide in the guide section if you cannot access it pm me. Basically check everything on the car thats made of rubber, engine mounts, exhaust mounts, gaitors, etc. The engines are pretty much bullet proof. Check the exhaust and dont be put off by a worn steering wheel.

 

[andykaz]

Thanks for the handy tips

 

[_Alex_D_]

Engine mounts. Bottom dogbone especially around £58 off Hillpower. Top ones are cheaper. AUX belt £50 plus bout £120 labour.

Aircon can be leaky but good place will sort one out. I had new condenser £80 then a sealant added with regas. Think paid £150 in total.

 

[Day]

Alternators - I'm on my 3rd

Petrol costs, probably caused by my heavy right foot to be honest

 

[Sy]

What are you looking to spend? Ideally?



Just asking as I am emigrating next year (hopefully). So mine is going.

 

[JuanBoy]

Personally I'd get the AA or RAC to give it the once over after the money I've spent on mine during the first 4 months of ownership. These aren't the strongest of cars and most have had a pretty hard life. As mentioned Cambelt Kits, Clutches are very expensive. Just paid £422 for a Cambelt/Tensioner change which was supposed to be a reasonable price! Rear Discs and Pads for example will set you back around 200 quid fitted. The cars are nice and nippy but will break from time to time, this is something most owners tend to except! If your budget allows I'd personally go for a higher quality Honda Type R, Integra Type R or Cooper S (sorry fellow RS owners!) Definately check Service Record, Cambelt, Alarm and Spare Keys and Exhaust as these are very weak. Listen for Rattles and Creaks and if you've the opportunity to drive it fast listen for knocks especially in first gear at high revs before changing to 2nd as these cars are proned to having engine mount wear which will show up here. Check Steering Wheel as these fall apart (£220 to replace)

Hope this hasn't put you off too much, I've been trawling these forums for months and these are common faults, which unfortunately I've had most of. Jap or German for me next time. However all that said, I still can't resist going out at the break of dawn on a Saturday and Sunday and redlining the old girl, still puts a smile on my face even though it'll be back in the garage by Wednesday!

 

[andykaz]

Very honest opinions there, thanks

 

[Steve2004]

No one has mentioned that the crank sensor (think that's what it's called) is a common fault. It gets covered in dust from the gearbox apparently? Anyway, if dirty it stops the car from starting. Although a quick wipe and a spray of WD40 clears it up for the time being.

Can't see this being very much to fix if you can't be bothered to clean it and want a replacement.

As said, the main problems with this car is the build quality, rattles and creaks are extremely common.

 

[Day]

Friends with later models have more rattles than I do :S

 

[Ad]

Personally I'd get the AA or RAC to give it the once over after the money I've spent on mine during the first 4 months of ownership. These aren't the strongest of cars and most have had a pretty hard life. As mentioned Cambelt Kits, Clutches are very expensive. Just paid £422 for a Cambelt/Tensioner change which was supposed to be a reasonable price! Rear Discs and Pads for example will set you back around 200 quid fitted. The cars are nice and nippy but will break from time to time, this is something most owners tend to except! If your budget allows I'd personally go for a higher quality Honda Type R, Integra Type R or Cooper S (sorry fellow RS owners!) Definately check Service Record, Cambelt, Alarm and Spare Keys and Exhaust as these are very weak. Listen for Rattles and Creaks and if you've the opportunity to drive it fast listen for knocks especially in first gear at high revs before changing to 2nd as these cars are proned to having engine mount wear which will show up here. Check Steering Wheel as these fall apart (£220 to replace)

all the above are things that can be checked yourself if you have a reasonable amount of knowledge. rear discs and pads should be cheaper than 200 mate as well.

Its not german granted and they arent the best builte cars, but then things dont cost that much to replace and if you keep the car for a reasonable time you get your money back.

 

[JuanBoy]

Personally I'd get the AA or RAC to give it the once over after the money I've spent on mine during the first 4 months of ownership. These aren't the strongest of cars and most have had a pretty hard life. As mentioned Cambelt Kits, Clutches are very expensive. Just paid £422 for a Cambelt/Tensioner change which was supposed to be a reasonable price! Rear Discs and Pads for example will set you back around 200 quid fitted. The cars are nice and nippy but will break from time to time, this is something most owners tend to except! If your budget allows I'd personally go for a higher quality Honda Type R, Integra Type R or Cooper S (sorry fellow RS owners!) Definately check Service Record, Cambelt, Alarm and Spare Keys and Exhaust as these are very weak. Listen for Rattles and Creaks and if you've the opportunity to drive it fast listen for knocks especially in first gear at high revs before changing to 2nd as these cars are proned to having engine mount wear which will show up here. Check Steering Wheel as these fall apart (£220 to replace)

all the above are things that can be checked yourself if you have a reasonable amount of knowledge. rear discs and pads should be cheaper than 200 mate as well.

Its not german granted and they arent the best builte cars, but then things dont cost that much to replace and if you keep the car for a reasonable time you get your money back.

'but then things dont cost that much to replace and if you keep the car for a reasonable time you get your money back'

... not in my experience mate, that's utter rubbish.

 

[Gumby]

Renault parts in the UK seem to either be horrendously priced or very very cheap...

 

[Ad]

all the above are things that can be checked yourself if you have a reasonable amount of knowledge. rear discs and pads should be cheaper than 200 mate as well.

Its not german granted and they arent the best builte cars, but then things dont cost that much to replace and if you keep the car for a reasonable time you get your money back.

'but then things dont cost that much to replace and if you keep the car for a reasonable time you get your money back'

... not in my experience mate, that's utter rubbish.

for a hot hatch???? If you think the clio is expensive your in the wrong type of car mate!!! But then again if a cooperS floats your boat instead of a 172 then im probably right!!

CTR/ITR is roughly the same cost for wearable parts, except the clutch is signifcantly more expensive. (ive had a CTR) More expensive to buy, insure and out fuel. so they do have its downsides. I wont even go down the CooperS, as they arent really a proper hot hatch.

agree renault parts are all the place wise. The reason the rear discs are expensive is because they have the bearings and ABS rings with them.. do have to buy discs with them but it makes sense to change it. Likewise the steering wheel at £220, I just wouldnt buy new...

I dont mean to be funny mate, I had a really bad expierence with my first 172, which was thankfully under warranty. Just overing some balanced advice. a 7yr old hothatch always has the potential to cost a lot of cash.

 

[_Alex_D_]

Honda parts are just as expensive and the whine of the Supercharger just don't do it for me.

Parts aren't that bad just don't pay the stealers to do the work! Mine has cost me since owning in four months but good research on a site like this will let you know what you are in for BEFORE buying and therefore can be taken into consideration.

 

[ludaprix]

ive had mine since last october, i had EVERY known fault occur on the car and have realistically spent around 1-1.3k sorting out the knocks, suspension, cambelt, aux belt, engine mounts, A/C, my fault really for buying a car that has had a good few owners, but i fell in love with it when i first saw it!

once the problems were sorted, i got bored of the cars performance and have since done a GDI single body conversion, and my word im loving every minute of it, i just want to keep on driving!it makes all the money ive spent on her worth it!

just keep your eyes open mate, mine had FSH, but you really need to go through it with a fine toothcomb and drive the car pretty hard on a test drive-which i didnt so ended up paying for it!there are plenty of good ones on here that come up for sale

good luck!

 

[Rob669]

A bit of mechanical knowledge and being prepared to get your hands dirty on occasion also helps to keep a 172 running properly. But for me that's what owning a car like this is all about.

My 172 has been much better in terms of mechanical reliability than my earlier model 1.8. Not a bad car all in all. Go for it!

Rob669

 

[Sy]

I have spent a fortune on mine, but it is now, totally right. Sadly some things have to go............................

 

[Iain C]

i had an mx5 before i got the cup.
You will miss the mx5 when its gone...I did so much i got an rx7 as well! Love the rwd.
The 172 is as good car for the cash.. Parts dont fail that much and if they do up grade em to better after mkt parts

 

[_Alex_D_]

ive had mine since last october, i had EVERY known fault occur on the car and have realistically spent around 1-1.3k sorting out the knocks, suspension, cambelt, aux belt, engine mounts, A/C, my fault really for buying a car that has had a good few owners, but i fell in love with it when i first saw it!

once the problems were sorted, i got bored of the cars performance and have since done a GDI single body conversion, and my word im loving every minute of it, i just want to keep on driving!it makes all the money ive spent on her worth it!

just keep your eyes open mate, mine had FSH, but you really need to go through it with a fine toothcomb and drive the car pretty hard on a test drive-which i didnt so ended up paying for it!there are plenty of good ones on here that come up for sale

good luck!

Just one point you listed CAM and AUX belt. If it had FSH you should of known that they needed doing before you brought it. Mines got Renualt FSH and I can just ask them whats been done and it's all on computer. If it's not Renault history you want to be seeing reciepts for work to cover yourself.

 

[ludaprix]

ive had mine since last october, i had EVERY known fault occur on the car and have realistically spent around 1-1.3k sorting out the knocks, suspension, cambelt, aux belt, engine mounts, A/C, my fault really for buying a car that has had a good few owners, but i fell in love with it when i first saw it!

once the problems were sorted, i got bored of the cars performance and have since done a GDI single body conversion, and my word im loving every minute of it, i just want to keep on driving!it makes all the money ive spent on her worth it!

just keep your eyes open mate, mine had FSH, but you really need to go through it with a fine toothcomb and drive the car pretty hard on a test drive-which i didnt so ended up paying for it!there are plenty of good ones on here that come up for sale

good luck!

Just one point you listed CAM and AUX belt. If it had FSH you should of known that they needed doing before you brought it. Mines got Renualt FSH and I can just ask them whats been done and it's all on computer. If it's not Renault history you want to be seeing reciepts for work to cover yourself.

well, the guy claimed it had a cambelt and aux belt done by the previous owner but had no receipts to back it up, plus it developed a whine a few weeks later, changed them both only to find the cambelt had been done before along with the pulleys, doh but the aux belt and pullies hadnt. i dont regret changing them though as it cleared my conscience

 

[nathanH]

only problem ive had is AC stopped working, everything else was down to my driving style and wear.

 

[_Alex_D_]

I hate that with belts. People claiming to of had them done just to sell car. Not nice when they go and you end up with £800 bill.

 

[Inodaz]

if you go for one, get a 52/03 plate onwards. The first 172s had a few engine/electrical problems.

 

[cK]

if you go for one, get a 52/03 plate onwards. The first 172s had a few engine/electrical problems.

Strange, I never experienced any problems with mine. Haven't heard many major problems from others either. Name the problems...

 

[Russ_16v]

my 2001 ph1 172 turned on 105,500 miles this morning and she runs lovely

 

[nathanH]

they get even Ph-aster with more miles

 

[_Alex_D_]

I must have the quickist then on 106k

 

[Ad]

if you go for one, get a 52/03 plate onwards. The first 172s had a few engine/electrical problems.

sorry mate, but that quite simply is rubbish.

 

[Jay-R]

Nothing has gone too badly wrong with mine just usual stuff, tyres, exhaust etc. Its a beautiful car, I like the fact its pretty understated but is still exciting to driver.
If I could buy a brand new Ph1 172 I would as it suits me down to the ground, also I seem to be the exception but I dont have any rattles despite my super hard suspension!