Matt made me do it.

[PhillipM]

He threatened to kill a kitten every hour until I posted this up

Build thread for the little buggy I posted the fail video of in general chat...
Copied and pasted across I'm afraid!

Well, here we go, the car's been built between me and my mate Ed (his car), he originally built up the frame as a cheap car to compete in the local regional championships in, total build cost was around £3k originally, which is fairly cheap as there are plenty of machines in the championships costing between £30-80k+.

The build started before I even knew Ed a fair few years back, cost and time constraints had meant the car had been built around heavily modified VW torsion bar suspension bought in from the states (they use in on their Baja buggies so it's cheap and works reasonably well).
The engine was a bored and stroked 2.3 Beetle unit, on twin 45's, mild camshaft and various modifications to the rockers and heads.

The first time I met him, I gave it the once over and told him the dizzy would give him problems, it wasn't too healthy, and had been mucked about with to stop the engine pinging (given it was original designed as a 1.6 litre unit...)

Anyhow, a phonecall shortly after he attended his first event revealed the dizzy had exploded and scuppered any chance of a finish.
Which resulted in a fair amount of p*ss taking for the next week, and eventually ended up with me getting roped in for years of work on the bloody thing afterword, should have kept quiet

So the last few years we've been working the buggy over between us with upgrades here there and everywhere, ready to enter it in the british championship rather than the few clubman events we've run in on shakedown tests, it's been stripped bare a few times, and work had been seriously slow on it for the previous 6 months because of work commitments (few orders for the 4wd rally cars in his brothers workshops).

Anyway, being a 2wd budget vehicle, the racing should be interesting, there are no weight limits on 2wd vehicles, whereas most 4wd cars are 1200 kilo's plus, so we're half a tonne up already with more to loose yet...


Back to history, the original engine specifications were along these lines:

2.3L VW aircooled engine, build from 1.6 unit.
- 4-1 manifold,
- Carbon/Mica filled PTFE gaskets,
- Dellorto 45's + custom inlet manifold
- Engle 120 camshaft
- Needle roller rockers, high lift 1.4:1 ratio
- Full flow casing with external oil coolers
- Modified cowling with electric fan assist.
- Counterbalanced forged steel crank.
- 3D ignition system (MegaJolt, built it for him after the dizzy problems), I did the ignition mapping DIY.

Along the way the buggy has had several new rear ends, 4 suspension setups, a new front end, 3 different gearboxes/linkages/pedal setups, and 3 different braking setups, I'll go into detail on these at some point.
Now, that may sound excessive and a bit chop and change - but usually they've coincided with a change in the chassis (or an exploding gearbox...) in order to keep the entire chassis working as well as we could within our budget.

The first change came shortly after it's second event, in which there were a few problems, the first was some pretty crap rear pads, they were originally sponsors of the local club series so they had to be used - they were bright green ones

- fell to pieces, and the backing plates then ground into the disc, welded themselves there and then ground away at the hub.
The result of which was some different pads, Mintex 1144's with the backing plates painted green on the rear, Wilwood Poly A's up front - then Hi-spec 4 pots fitted at the rear and some new discs.

The second was the gearbox exploding, this was the original box sourced with the engine so it was to be expected, another box was duly sought, and the engine and rear frame pulled out for fitment, the new box was a five speed version though, which gave us a little more pace as the VW tended to drop off cam, this was later resolved through some careful carb jetting and linkage tweaks, but the shorter gears were welcome at the time.

Of course, the problem with a five speed box is that it's slightly longer, which meant a simple gearbox change meant we had to rejig all the linkages, the cabling, and the entire back end and engine mounts needed moving an inch back.
This in itself mean the driveshafts had to be altered, and new panels formed up out of ally sheet.

So next time you are swearing during a gearbox swap, just remember, it could be worse....


The fun is in getting the engine on the box (yes, that is the right way around), which takes 4-5 goes to get the splines located right, which, when you are holding an engine made from sharp aircooling fins, gets you some funny looks when you've a dozen 'scratch marks' in a pattern down your arms, whoops.

The second box came around 2 events later on, after a final drive turned itself into smeared lump in objection to landing a 6ft drop off a small quarry under full power. Ah well, the joys of cars built out of scrapyard bits
:laugh:

This time we sourced several boxes while we decided what to do with it, the engine was down on power and there was a brand new 3.5 Nissan V6 sat on a crate in the workshop, a Porsche carrera 4wd box was duly acquired by Ed, along with a standard 2wd box.
It was decided to stay 2wd as they're more fun to drive, and it's more fun when you leave the 4wd boys, and it would have taken us about 10 times our budget to do what we wanted properly - unfortunately the next events were fairly soon, and there was no way the 3.5 V6 was going to shoehorn in with the necessary plumbing without a complete new rear end and suspension setup, so in went a 5-speed Renault Master van gearbox, complete with 9" differential, again, this meant new linkages and tweaks to the chassis, along with a spring change due to the different CoG, we finished at 4:30 the morning of the next event....

Now, the problem with concentrating mainly on sorting out the rear, is that, at 5:30am, the morning of the event, after a short nap, you really don't want a whining noise to appear on the shakedown drive before loading it up on the lorry.
You most definately don't want that sound to be whining front wheel bearing, and you definately don't want to be 2 miles from home when it starts getting worse.
Once a bearing goes on something like this, they don't last long at all under the impact stresses, unlike in a car where it'll whine for 2000 miles, you're lucky to get 2000 yards...
Unfortunately, the smallest of the workshops must be 2010 yards away, because the wheel fell off trundling around the last corner back to it.
In itself that's not a problem, the way the buggy is setup you can post a running stage time with just 3 wheels.........
What IS a problem, is that fabricated steel wheel, meeting a beautiful but rather softer alloy Wilwood '5-star' rally hub.
After turning the 5-star hub into a 1-disc smear, it decided to take a chunk out of the from calipers just for kick before it did it's party trick of wandering off down the lane.
Shiiiittttt.

We've got spare bearings, but no spare hubs, so that's the end of that event already, what fun.
Fortunately, I was driving back up to the workshops at the time, so I just caught Ed running around the corner before a wheel fell off, which gave me a laugh, even if it didn't him.

The next event was the final one we attended before taking it back in the workshop for a rethink, a local club event where you can just turn up and drive, all went well that morning, bar getting the lorry stuck in the staging area and having to tow it out.
The engine was running a little rough, but then, it's been due some new piston rings and probably some new shells for a while, but we couldn't see the point of spending money on the VW engine, it does the job but when it goes bang, well, there was that V6 waiting in the workshop....
This probably annoyed the poor overworked veedub, after being originally designed as a 1.6 with about 40 horsepower, for some greasemonkey to pull it apart, subject it to a bore out of existing holes, put in holes that shouldn't be there, push the output to 120bhp and then run it at 5000rpm, solid mounted to a buggy driven by a pair of nutters with suicidal tendancies, well, perhaps it had every right to to be a bit ****ed off and spit a shell that day....

The competition in the 2wd class included an RS200 look-a-like, and a similar machine to ours but with a long-travel double wishbone front end, 1.6 turbo engine with ~190bhp (More like around 120 when it got going tbh!), but it had a pretty poor frame compared to ours.

We were quite happy after the first run, setting a time 12 seconds faster than him (7 mile stage), which got us some mutterings about his power steering failing and his engine overheating.

What we didn't tell him was we'd had to stop for 30 seconds at the bottom of the hill as the carbs flooded the engine because of bouncing floats, and we'd noted better lines that should pick up another 10 seconds...well, no point rubbing it in is there, that's what the next lap is for....
Especially when you'd lost time yourself as the VW had thrown a belt and you'd lost PAS and overheated the engine yourself.

After rigging a new belting system up, we were ready to go out for the second stage, with a better idea of the course allowing Ed to pick up the pace on the corners and avoid the ripples on the exit to get the power down, we worked out at 43 seconds up from our last time around after two thirds of the way around the course, on par with the 4wd guys running there, but we were loosing power, the engine was starting to blow a little smoke, but we had to finish the stage to get back to service area anyway, so full throttle it is.
Out of the marshland they called a corner halfway around the course, the car simply would not slog it's way out of the mud, struggling to pull second gear where normally we would have been in the top of third, onto the next straight, top of 5th at ~80mph over ripples - imagine speedbumps 2 feet apart at 80mph - and the engine spun a shell, the shock and friction as it attempted to weld to the crank dropped the engine revs massively and with a locked rear axle and the back end already snaking as it was putting the power down over the ripples, the car immediately spun several times, we ended up travelling backwards at around 60-70mph, downhill on wet grass toward a stone wall.

Now, we weren't too concerned about the buggy as we know how strong it is - the entire frame is T45 tubing, it would have made a mess but be fixable - but we knew for a fact that there were spectators behind the wall and the buggy would flatten it like a bowling ball hitting smarties tubes, or go over the top.
With Ed hard on the footbrake and attempting to bring the front end back around with the steering, I hung onto the left hand fiddle brake and between us we managed to slew the buggy around to a stop away from the wall.
Some good natured cursing ensued in the fight to restart the engine, which luckily hadn't welded itself solid, and once it fired into a nice, uneven beat with lashings of rattles, we limped the remainder of the stage in first gear, and announced our retirement to the marshalls.

We posted an 8m40s stage time.
Which amusingly was still faster than a third of the competitors...so the car had a bit of potential against the local club racers.
Ooops:

The diagnosis was terminal, we went home and hatched plans, coming to the conclusion that the 3.5 V6 was just too big for the current chassis and we may as well start from scratch with it - as we could use it as a stressed member for a double wishbone front and rear.
Given the buggy was meant to be a low-budget challenge, this was wiped off the list and an RX-8 renesis engine accidentally made it's way into the workshop.

Quick rundown on the chassis before I go into the Renesis conversion:

Chassis-

- Mixture of 2-3" T45 steel tubing, mandrel bent and welded, weight is a touch over 750 kilos. You can quite happily lift the front with one person and walk around with the car.
- Rear setup are 4 gas pressure monotubes, consisting of 2 Bilstein dampers, 2 Fox adjustable coilovers, all remote res. nitrogen charged, giving around 14 inches of rear suspension travel, these act on a rear torsion bar setup with heavily braced arms, again, made from T45 tube, the bars are rising rate and there's a secondary assist bar which comes into play after 10" of travel.
- Front setup is now 2 Fox coilovers aiding a rising rate twin torsion bar front end adapted from the VW setup, approximately 12" of travel up front.
- Brakes are a mixture of small 2 pot Wilwoods up front and Hispec 4 pots on the back, linked with braided hoses to 2 AP master cylinders on a balance bar with a homemade pedal box, it also sports a hydraulic handbrake/fiddle brake setup to brake individual wheels for turning the front end in quicker (or donuts).
Solid discs (less weight) all around matched with the uprated pads.
- Wheels were our own steels - 15x6J, made by by Ed, weighing in at 5.8kilos, fitted with 215/75 Bridgestone MS's.

It's absolutely hilarious to drive, but not exactly the most sophisticated or good-looking car in the world I'll admit

 

[PhillipM]

And again...

Right, job number one was to mock up and adapter plate to get the RX-8 engine onto the VW gearbox, as well as machine a new flywheel with a counterbalance weight to fit a smaller clutch, as the the Mazda unit is too large for the bellhousing.

So, a decent 2800lb pressure plate, plus an AP cerametallic 3-puck clutch plate, with the centre cut out and a VW one pressed in, made it's way onto the engine:

Which lets us bolt the engine on for mock-up of the ancillaries and hoses, before taking it back off and machining the various brackets and fixtures out of ally to keep the weight down - it's easier to mock-up in steel as you can just whack the MIG on it to tack something in place - but it's a hell of a weight penalty when you add up the amount of brackets and adaptors on a car, so all the final versions will be ally where they can be.

And a couple of hours work to get the exhaust manifold sorted out - unequal length manifold as the centre port is siamesed on these, like an a-series, so the centre branch meets at a different length to the others to keep it from causing problems with pulse tuning.

As you can see, still not touched the plumbing!

We've kept the standard intake manifold on this engine, as although it's quite large, it's an extremely good design, with several variable intake ports on it, replacing it with throttle bodies would result in a marginal top end gain for the cost of a huge amount of midrange.

We had massive problems with a fooked microtech ECU we were supplied, which isn't fun when the only bloke who maps them is several hours trip away and really couldn't be arsed to do our car anyway - we took 4 trips over there and the car ran like a bag of s*it even after switching to DTA instead, bearing in mind this guy is a rotary specialist we got led up a lot of blind alleys with regard to the fuel system - one trip to our normal DTA mapper and the car now flies. Hmm.
That set us back month and a large sum of money we didn't really have to spend.

A month or so later on and the car had the rest of the exhaust made up, a new crank trigger wheel on for the DTA to read (they're a right pain to make up!), most of the plumbing in, and the loom stripped out for wiring to begin, hence the big pile of old wiring on the floor:

A new rear bonnet to keep it all dry:

And we finally got the thing running after about 6 months work, there were still a few jobs left to do on it, and a lot to tidy up, including another trip to the dyno having a flat spot sorted out and the top end mapped to account for getting the final variable inlet stage working - the rev. limiter is at 9600rpm...

Hopefully, we should soon be back to this:

We'll run this car for a year or two to prove the drivetrain, then sell it and make a new car with the RX8 engine (well, the new 1.6L version, when it arrives) in the middle where it should be, multi-link wishbones and a body with at least some kind of nod to aero

Some more to come yet...

 

[PhillipM]

Yep, more to read yet - I hope that's a big cup of coffee your sat with

A little more work squeezed in over the past few weeks - made the doors (as doors or nets are now compulsary), with tubular ally frames and thermoformed polycarb over the top, new front bulkhead made to clear the new brake cylinders.

There's a pair of new front calipers on the way as the old ones are too far gone now to be worth refurbishing (they are 30 years old....), plus new pads.
I'll be machining some new discs up for it this week as the old ones have warped very badly from the sticking front calipers (they're about 3mm out

)
After that a quick strip down of the front suspension to replace some worn beam bearings and then it's finally ready to roll.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

New discs for it I've had made up from some CGI iron plate:

Ideally the rear needs to go vented now we have 260-odd bhp, but they'll do for now until we've got some pennies spare, as always it's gone over budget!


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


After fitting new calipers/pads/discs and building the scoop for the rear bonnet, along with finishing off the meshing, and rebuilding the front suspension, we went off to Newstead last weekend to finally compete.

Unfortunately the going was so sandy/boggy that we were running for miles at full throttle, which resulted in the fuel boiling in the injector rail from the buildup of heat in the engine bay.

Which means this week we're lifting the rear scoop upwards and forwards into cleaner air, meshing the rear panel by the exhaust manifold, and wrapping the fuel rail to keep it insulated.
We'll probably double skin the exhaust too as that's where most of the heat-soak is coming from - rotaries run silly exhaust temperatures, the outer two headers get cherry red, but the shared center runner glows orange right up to the collector!

Back end as it stands after a wash - going to add some mesh, bring the scoop up and above the roof:

 

[PhillipM]

Still going

This is one for all you polishing fanatics, how to clean the underside of your car the lazy way:

That's a mere 100+ kilos of mud, gravel and sheep s*it you can see washing away under the car....

After that we set to work again, air intake has been shifted around to the side and ducted forward to a scoop, the bottom rear panel by the headers has been meshed to allow some airflow over them, and the entire exhaust has gone off to be ceramic coated, there larger meshed area around the rear to let some more air out and some ceramic blanket around the fuel lines to stop them picking up so much heat from the engine bay

Just got to work out how to sort the roof scoop out and we'll be motoring again

A week later....

Quote

The buggy now has nice ally roof scoop and rejigged hinges, plus an air intake scoop to take air from the high pressure area at the top of the windscreen, the exhaust collector and manifold has gained a couple more heatshields and there's been a few alterations to the panels for the engine air intake and cooling around the exhaust manifold.

We've cut down the rear bulkhead to the 'V' in the rear cross and then panelled that up to the roof to give a large airbox for the radiator to draw from and to remove the restriction the rear rollover hoop would cause with the new roof scoop.





And then we headed to Oulton Park for a drift day in lieu of having somewhere to test:

Quote

Which was hilarious, and highlighted a few issues with breathers and bits, so was worth going!
But a few days later...

Quote
Had a synchro failure on 3rd gear a couple of days before the first event :curse:
So, engine out, shafts off, radiators out, loom out, gearbox out, new box in...



So, with that done, off to another event, nothing else can go wrong now, surely?!

Quote

Made it to Waterbeach this weekend for a bit of fun, unfortunately with a sporadic engine cut out problem which I suspect is the alternator given the battery voltage is dropping.
That and the melted alternator terminal...

Got a few good runs in though and shook the revised front suspension down - spent last week realigning it, new springs, alter the dampers and changed the bumpstops and torsion bar rates, the front is about spot on now, in fact we went over 2 foot by 2 foot square trenches without being able to feel it through the car, so that's working well.
The rear is on the soft side so we're just waiting for some new springs now, it's fine whilst in the forests or along most of the bumpy stuff, but it slams the rear skid plate onto the floor on the bigger jumps, always knew it wanted harder rear springs but now we know how much to go with, so the suspension is finally working at last.

Still wants the dampers altering a bit but that's a winter job.

She still runs a bit too warm even with the new scoop, so the exhaust manifold is coming off to be given an internal and external ceramic powdercoat, as it's the heat building up around the engine causing problems rather than the water/oil temp, it was damned warm weather though, which didn't help - 21* and blue skies, better than rain but wasn't helping the engine!

Ended up having to shortshift and leave it in third in the tight stuff and letting it haul itself out to keep the exhaust temperatures down (and whoever says rotaries have no torque wants to come and sit in this thing, when it pulls itself from axle deep, out of soil full of clay, in a forest, at 2krpm in 3rd...)

Other than that she's doing well at last, it might actually do a full event next month!

Got to try and sort a bit more silencing though, 105db driveby and 104 static where everyone else was 104 static and ~90db driveby....whooops

Broken as normal:

Sorted, fix those and it should all be peachy...no?

Quote

Well, we've finally sorted the brakes, solved the cooling problems, and fitted a new alternator to sort out the electrical gremlins.

Took it for a nice 10 mile test run with nothing but a very slightly slipping clutch.
Back in the workshop, adjust the clutch, back down to the test track, perfect, no slipping.

2 minutes down the track, into 4th gear, BANG.
No drive

Maybe not then, I'm beginning to think the car was cursed....
We sourced a new box thanks to a very nice bloke over on the PPC forums, problem was, it had stripped the splines on one of the driveshafts from the shock too, and they are custom-made jobbies, quite a cost....

Fix that, make some changes to better bearings in the 'box and finally, off to Radnor for another race:

Quote

Well, good news and bad, nothing broke, and for the first time since it's inception, the car has actually finished an event :laugh:
Bad news was it's still getting hot enough at full chat that you have to back off a little bit - bigger oil cooler should sort it as it's oil temp not water that's the problem now.
Good news is the event was a lot of fast, very steep, full throttle uphill slogs in 26*c ambient temperatures, so it'll only get better from here!

Even better news is it's got a shiny trophy with 1st in class engraved to it's name.

It finished! And it didn't explode in a shower of gearbox internals!

Some photo's from that event:

And it even finished at the next event at crickhowell too, again, 1st in class:

More to come, we haven't finished breaking it yet, not by a long way...

 

[PhillipM]

Here you go then, this is what happens when you don't have a decent navigator
Ignore the timings, this was first posted early last year.

Well, a few weeks back, Ed put it into a tree at Minehead whilst I was laid up with flu!

Anyway, he bent both front beam tubes, a shock tower, made a 2D wheel out of a 3D one, broke the steering ram/mountings and bent a fair few tubes.
We've been debating just chopping the front off and sticking a double wishbone setup on there not ideal for the car, but we've already got the bits to hand (from building other cars), and it should be better than the trailing arm setup.

However, after chipping the bent tubing out, a bit of ingenuity with a jig allowed us to get the beam tubes under pressure in the right places, and that and a gas axe resulted in straight tubing again, with the front end welded back on, the bent tubes were chopped out, the frame jigged back up and new ones welded in, new suspension bushes, bearings, straightened the trailing arms out, made a new control valve for the steering and made some new wheels up and she was good enough to go.

Cheap and cheerful wins again!

------------------------------------------------------


And all that work resulted in....another shiny 1st trophy....

Just about managed to cobble it all back together by 3pm on Saturday, loaded up, drove down, ended up kipping in the car as we needed a boat rather than a tent, course was rough as anything, bouncing off the skidpan most of the time, as there were area's where they'd been testing tank suspension out or something.
p*ssed it down most of the day so was far too slippy for a 2wd car really, but still managed 1st in class + lap times were good enough for 8th overall.
Lots of broken cars due to the ruts though - rough as hell.
So everything aches today, but ah well.

We had a bit of trouble with a seal on the PAS pump giving up, and a car in front putting the boot down whilst sideways on a muddy patch just as we were overtaking, putting about an inch of muck on the screen and blowing the wiper motor

But apart from those and the battery giving up and making us late for our last run, the car itself is alive and well again, with no problems

Walters Arena in 2 weeks now that the WRC boys have finished using it, gravel tracks!

Hmmm, everything seems to be going suspicously well with the car, can't have that now can we?

Unfortunately, despite being the fastest 2wd on the course, we got two punctures, both on the rear axle, that left us stranded at the far side of the course

By the time we'd been back to service and rolled two wheels and a jack through the woods for 4 miles, we couldn't complete enough runs to finish the event. Bah.

The car had been spinning the wheels on the rims somewhat early on in the day, which probably helped towards them getting thrown off the rim by the rocks.
We do have some 16x8J steelies in the making to fit over the winter though, which will let us step up to more aggressive tyres with 8 ply Kevlar sidewalls instead of the 3 ply nylons we are currently having to run, should sort that out.





We'd missed too many events building the car to win the 2 wheel drive championship - the nearest competitor just had to turn up and get a point for starting to beat us at this one - whereas we had to come first to beat him if he didn't turn up. There was a chance as he'd blown his engine at the last event, but someone lent him one so he could win, ah well, always next year eh?

Pictures from there:

So, moving onto some winter work:

3 weekends to get it back together before the first event and it currently looks like this:

Hmm, tiny little bit of work left then?

Sounds like our competition has stepped it up this year - there's a two new 2wd buggies arriving, both built with about 10 times our budget, so we'll be doing well if we win any!

One's a spaceframe with a fibreglass shell over it to look like a car, similar to the construction of the 4wd cars, but with a civic type-r engine, sequential gearbox, bypass shocks all around, limited slip diff, and long travel double wishbones, all brand new parts - not scrapyard monkies like us - similar power and weight to us, but should have lots more traction and grip, and should be much more aerodynamical, so faster on the high speed tracks.

The other is a little single-seater buggy, clothed in carbon fibre/fibreglass, with a 1400 Kawasaki bike engine in the back, sequential box with the quaiffe back end and diff, should be a good 150 kilos lighter than us and that too is on long arm double wishbones, bypass shocks.

Bugger!

Having had problems with the brakes overheating, and in the case of the Poly-A pads - eating discs at about 1mm per event, and a set of pads every other event - we had some Carbotech XP8's custom made for it - far better bite, they don't fade, and the pad and disc wear has dropped to about 0.1mm per event - just slightly better then!

A week later:

Nearly there!

Another week...

Slightly wider new wheels

 

[PhillipM]

And some more...

And a pic in the sunshine!

And even a video!

[video]http://youtu.be/kj6jiFTUHxg[/video]

Or three:

[video]http://youtu.be/N6oVAWLKCpg[/video]

[video]http://youtu.be/IOLZIJv01C0[/video]

 

[PhillipM]

And we headed to Sidbury, event was pretty rough, we had an alternator fail and put us out of the running, and there was a nasty accident so not the best weekend out:

Look, it's clean!
Maybe not:

We had a bit of trouble with the clutch again too, so a new alternator with better quality bearings and a larger pulley to reduce the load on it was fitted, and we swapped the flywheel as we suspected some high spots on it were the cause of the clutch problems.
Course, we made it lighter too - couple of kilos....

Which gave us 1st in class at Waterbeach last month, plus 9th overall - it would have been 8th but the throttle cable snapped about 200 yards from the finish line - can't be having things going too well now can we?

More to come yet...that brings you up to about 14 months since...

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

Good grief....

Something to read at lunch tomorrow !

 

[Cookie]

I'll read the words tomorrow, but that looks completely f**king mental

Good job

 

[PhillipM]

Good grief....

Something to read at lunch tomorrow !

That's a hell of a dinner break

I'll leave it there for a while so you can all catch up

 

[Matt Cup]

Nice one fella!! Thats my tomorrow sorted!

 

[Scrooge]

Epic, truly epic!

 

[PhillipM]

One final post today for you picture lovers:

And off we go again...

Bit more work on this now since the last race, stripped down and revalved the rear Fox dampers as the oil was knackered and the old bilstiens on there have lost some damping.
They're not revalvable though - sealed units - so I've altered the shims and pistons in the Fox's instead, as they're cooler running anyway.
Should have a bit more traction over the rough stuff and be a lot better landing and taking off over jumps, hopefully.

Stripped the rear calipers down and rebuilt those as they were sticking a bit, had all the nuts and bolts off the drivetrain and suspension and renewed the locktite as it tends to soften up after a few events.

Front upright has had a couple of new bearings again and a sleeve on the shaft to take it up to the next size bearing - see if we can get them to last longer than a season!

Also sorted out the number board by taking off the top where it looks bloody ugly and putting some proper stickers (thanks to Adam!) on the side of some Carbon/Kevlar panels on the side of the car.

Tweaked the airbox to get another litre of capacity in there just for a touch easier breathing for the engine, and sneaked a bigger filter in so it doesn't get clogged up as fast with the dust and mud.

Other than that, just routine maintaince - oils/filters/water/grease bushes/regass dampers.
And ready for the next race next weekend - novelty being ready this early for us!






And a shitload of various pictures:

And the new stickers and numberboards:

 

[MaLicE]

who was it that mapped it originally for you??

why did you pic a renesis over a 13b or 12a lump?? a sideported 13b or periphial ported 13b on tb's would be fun!! also 9600 on a renesis? i thought 9k was the safest?? company in oz make bilet rotors and a 1 piece e shaft that will rev to 18k!!! well 16k safe limit! nice work though would be nice to know your comments on my questions

 

[Tony Hunter]

Nice to see something a little different,I like it.:approve:

 

[Silent_Scone]

that's brilliant, bet it's a handful

 

[PhillipM]

who was it that mapped it originally for you??

why did you pic a renesis over a 13b or 12a lump?? a sideported 13b or periphial ported 13b on tb's would be fun!! also 9600 on a renesis? i thought 9k was the safest?? company in oz make bilet rotors and a 1 piece e shaft that will rev to 18k!!! well 16k safe limit! nice work though would be nice to know your comments on my questions

Picked the renesis as most RX7 lumps these days need a serious rebuild before they even go in, it's a budget car, 3k rebuild plus porting on top and a s**t powerband vs 1k for a spanking new engine and a flat torque curve from 3k to 9k seemed a no-brainer

 

[H182]

Looks great fun I want a go.

 

[Nickson]

That's absolutely awesome!

 

[Gally]

Amazing machine mate, looks a lot of fun!

 

[Sir_Dave]

Oh god. Not another member of the c*nt/gti6 forum ....

Im gonna make a post on there saying that you & Ash 'live for the clio' now instead of the 306.

 

[PhillipM]

Oh god. Not another member of the c*nt/gti6 forum ....

Im gonna make a post on there saying that you & Ash 'live for the clio' now instead of the 306.

I'm chasing cooper, he's not getting away from buying shiny bits that easily....

 

[PhillipM]

OK, lunch is over, some readin' for the evenin'

And then we headed off to Baden Hall for the weekend:

Chalk up a pair of first in class trophies

Car riding much better with the revalving on the rear dampers, but we had major issues with heat buildup boiling fuel in the rail - lots of misfires when the car got hot - we've had it before but thought we'd cured it with lagging - but now the car is riding better we're on full throttle harder and longer....


Full writeup later, I'm cream crackered!

And some more piccies:

And trying to fix the issues and running repairs:

Right, we've traced the problem with misfiring to a dodgy throttle pot as well as the heat issue with the fuel, so a bit of tinkering over the weekend and we're away, hoping to have sorted the hesitation/misfire with the throttle pot and just waiting for the new hoses to move the tank.
We've stripped down the rear wheel bearings to make some thicker shims to account for wear as the new bearings bed in, so that should be back together shortly, along with a new fuel tank shifted up front to help the turn in a little and hopefully solve the heat/boiling problem.
Spare throttle pot and a new set of leads on the way as they're a little past their best, and we'll see how she goes with the other half of the engine firing at the next one

A few days later:

Well, after thinking we'd cured the misfire it's now back with a vengance, but in a different spot - at a guess we've been unlucky and had two problems, not one, which is why it's seemed so random! Anyway, we've stripped it all back down for a check over and I've just dropped the injectors off at a local garage for checking and cleaning - hopefully it's one of those - if not I'm stumped!

Anyway, we have had some good news in that the generous lads at Opie Oils have offered us some sponsorship by way of a lovely discount on oil/fluids/spark plugs, etc, which is much appreciated, being on a shoestring budget a little help on the consumables should hopefully go a long way towards modifications for more speed out of the old girl, so I'd like to say a big thanks to them

You never know, we might be able to afford a bacon butty each at the weekends shortly!

And off to the next event!....

Apparently, ripping one front wheel and the associated suspension components off the car on the first laps isn't actually the fantastic weight saving scheme it appears to be initially.

Whoops!

 

[PhillipM]

And some more:

Slight problem with the tracking. Slight problem with the engine too, either the impact or the previous misfires that we drove through in order to finish Baden Hall has killed a seal in one rotor of the engine, so it's lost compression and is down about 100bhp or so

Here endeth that event....
Few weeks later though:

Right, new engine sorted with only 1000 miles on the clock, it's a 2009 model which has a lot of changes to the sump and oil system, so we need to tweak the rear chassis to get it in and alter a lot of the oil lines/blanks, but we're doing it with adapators so the car can then take either engine if need be.
That's because the plan is to rebuild the new engine with a bridgeported intake and possibly a peripheral port exhaust (it's only cracked a side seal so it's fixable, just going to take a lot of time and effort) - which should hopefully push her up to about 300bhp or so, albeit a bit higher up the range @ around 9.5/10krpm or so.

It'll be fun*!

• The kind of fun that involves learning new curse words.

Month later...

Anyway, got the new engine finally installed, oil system changed, electrics altered and sat down and alter the timing in the map.
And she fired first time on the button, spot on.

Unfortuatly the DTA software showed the throttle pot reading was jumping so we need to sort a new throttle pot, little oil leak from one of the fabricated fittings and sort a new oil gauge out (this engine runs at 150psi of pressure instead of 90), but hopefully we should be at Sweetlamb this weekend.

I'll do a full writeup with pictures the week after on the alterations hopefully.


IT'S ALIVE!

And one downbeat post the next weekend:

Unfortunately the new TPS didn't arrive (obviously the Royal Mail vans need some remapping, and a bigger turbo, and slicks, and someone awake at the wheel).
Anyway, we managed to get hold of one this week and replaced the knackered one, spent this morning refining the mapping (bit conservative on the timing and fuel up top originally until we'd got all our issues with cooling sorted, so altered that).
The new engine seems to run a lot smoother, might be me imagining it, or it's down to the extra oil pressure (80PSI at idle!) and better water pump, and she gets to peak power earlier now and holds it for longer (there's 90%+ of peak power now from 7500-9400rpm), feels much quicker up top.
Runs even cooler too now with the new water pump + extra oil flow.
Apart from a little oil weep that we expected from a temporary fitting, all seems well, so we're gonna get some milage in to bed the engine in (it's a little down on the old one 261bhp vs 268bhp, according to the rollers, but you know how good they are on different days), as it's done under 1000 miles and it's definately a bit tight.
Might just crack over 270bhp once she's done some miles, hopefully.

And the next month, and next event...a much bloody happier post!

Well, despite not being able to sort the slight oil weep from a fitting we went to the last event at Ebbw Vale this weekend anyway, and apart from a bit of a heat problem (long slog uphill through some peat bog, horrible stuff, the car sunk in about half a foot when you hit it), and knackering the sidewall on a tyre after a little overexuberance through the final chicane - which was made of rock, so not very forgiving - we kept going all day.
As it was, we were the only 2wd car to get around the whole event, it was slippery and very rough and rocky in places, the new floorpan looks like it's been shot peened underneath from the rougher bits...
Anyway, other than that, we managed to slug around, it was never going to be a course that favoured 2wd vehicles as the uphill slogs were on mud or peat bog, but we made some time up early on with a bit of gravel track and ended up tenth overall anyway, obviously 1st in class.
Which means we've finally won the 2wd Championship class

with over 100 points to spare, and we've now got 3 months to make some more bits to bolt on

Obviously a big thanks to the few suppliers who've helped us out with a bit of discount and a lot of technical help - Carbotech Europe, Gtechniq, Opie Oils and McGill Motorsports in particular, when you're racing on a budget it's a hell of a help even to have a little discount, and the service and support from all of them has been flawless.


Watch this space for the upgrade program

First step is to shift the oil cooler and make some high-flow endcaps for the radiator just to help out with the cooling - it's been perfect everywhere else but a long uphill slog in peat saw it climb to 105*c so a few tweaks should help a bit with engine life and, more importantly, stop the driver from looking at the gauge instead of where he's going

Then onto some damper work again and perhaps rework the front end for better geo. and travel, see if we can sort a cheap digi-dash to loose some wiring from behind the dashboard and hopefully sort out some sort of limited slip diff so we're not struggling so much in the really wet stuff.

More to come yet, I'll stick some up later, get fed up of copy and pasting

 

[Ian_182]

What a great toy...

 

[PhillipM]

What a great toy...

Nah, it's a good toy.


This is a great toy...

 

[Kam.]

What trolley jack is that? Looks nice and I need to kit out the new workshop next month

 

[PhillipM]

Big Red Racing IIRC. It's not as light as it looks after lugging it a mile either!

 

[MaLicE]

Picked the renesis as most RX7 lumps these days need a serious rebuild before they even go in, it's a budget car, 3k rebuild plus porting on top and a s**t powerband vs 1k for a spanking new engine and a flat torque curve from 3k to 9k seemed a no-brainer

3k rebuild? you mad lol??? a full 13b rebuild kit is 1k the best porting company in the uk (oldones) charge 250 -300 depending on the porting you want and 150 to rebuild it for you lol! the renesis lump has more drawbacks than the 12a or 13b.... so you could of gone for a 13b with a p port and throttle bodies with 400bhp for about 500 quid more than a renesis lol.

 

[PhillipM]

^Best price I got for an engine plus a full rebuild was 2.5K.

And a full P-port and throttle bodies taht'd give 400 N/A wouldn't give a broad enough torque spread for this work, the Renesis has a massive advantage there, plus the diamond coated tips don't suffer anywhere near the wear...

 

[PhillipM]

..And off we go again...

Had a day at Curborough on Saturday for a bit more seat time, took my nephew for a spin in it too :hehe: (he also took the first couple of pictures, and a lot more of the floor, grass, the track behind a passing car, his thumbs...)
Few pictures:

Resized to 43% (was 2592 x 1944) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 43% (was 2592 x 1944) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 43% (was 2592 x 1944) - Click image to enlarge

And a couple of the nephew in the car with Ed:

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 45% (was 2522 x 1891) - Click image to enlarge

Few more pictures courtesy of Mr.Yorke, think I might have to buy the hi-res one of Ed parked up on the grass after a spin :hehe:

 

[PhillipM]

And a day or so later...

And a little video here from the return of the Suspension Cam

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=lSjgk2R0Mw4

Can't see a lot as it's pointing sideways but you can watch the front wheel dangling in the air at the chicane

 

[PhillipM]

And then some winter work on the car, cup off coffee time for this one again I'm afraid.

Right, no, we haven't just locked it in a shed and forgot about it.
(Well, alright, maybe we did, for a bit. Beer got in the way over christmas, and new year) :hehe:

However, it looks like the diff. isn't going to be ready for the first event, which is a pity, but the little elves in the workshop have been busy, we've ditched the rear torsion bars and the housings/bushes they ran in on the rear suspension, because they wore pretty rapidly and it gave really vague toe settings at the rear, which made it a bit in-consistant to drive after a few events.

So, the fabrication-fairies have been in, and kindly made new spring plates at the rear, that now terminate in a rose joint, that bolts into a new bracket made to clamp up to the original rear beam, which keeps the suspension geometery and load paths the same, but shouldn't wear as quickly (same sealed system as my joints on the 306's wishbones) and is a damn sight more precise as the bearing is metal-to-metal now.

At the risk of turning into cheque-book racers, we've also just sorted out some new Fox replacements for the rather tired old Bilstien dampers at the rear too (they are 30 years old now, they deserve a rest!), which means they're on my kitchen table looking incredibly clean and shiny.
They twin rate coilovers with a stop for the tender so they should give us much more options for the rear spring rate and the steps/progression that occurs over the travel too.
And we can't have that :hehe:, so as usual when I get something shiny, I'll be tearing them to pieces tommorow and changing the valving and oil to my own special-brew...

The new radiator and cowling is all welded up and fits beautifully, so when Demon Tweeks get their arse in gear and send us a 60* silicone hose out (Yes, see, even more shiny new stuff, we'll be paying someone to put the kettle on too at this rate. Or we would if we hadn't nicked the wire out of it to run the fans in a last minute repair a few months ago...) the cooling upgrade should be all sorted ready the advent of boost sometime later this year.


Few pictures soon, write-ups are no good without lots of pictures, I know, sorry!

And a bit later...

Well, due to having 4 million other things to do we didn't actually get the new trailing arms on in time, although we mounted the new, wider tyres and new rear dampers, plus some modified fronts, and bled the new cooling system through - just about managed to throw the car back together by 5:30pm on Saturday, and head off to Walters Arena for the first event.
Haven't even got this years stickers yet so had to make some temporary numbers up from electrical tape too

Got there at 9.30 after traffic from hell, went to sleep, up at 5:30 and walked around 7.5 miles of muddy Welsh hills

Not the best thing to do in a morning before the racing! Cue two knackered northerners running around like nutters trying to unpack the car, get setup, scrutineered and signed on in the 30 minutes before the drivers briefing....

In a shocking distortion of reality it was actually bloody sunny in Wales for once, which dried most of the standing water up pretty quickly, so apart from going steady for a few laps due to rough riding and a horrible knocking noise, the car ran well all day, no trouble with traction, although it could do with a gear between 2nd and 3rd on some of the steeper uphill slogs!

The horrible noise and rough riding was due to throwing the torsion bars back on in a rush on Saturday and the car sitting on it's suspension like a stilt walker - the rear was running on the droop stops, but altering it would have taken far too long and the new dampers were keeping it in check enough to give us another 1st in class and 7th overall. No problems with the car for once* so we'll get the new suspension on for the next event (Waterbeach) and spend some time setting it up properly. Hopefully we might achieve our aim of a top 5 overall finish this year, it wasn't far away this time.
The good news is the new dampers on the rear and the revamped fronts have got the car handling jumps and ditches far better, I might do a little tweak to the rears but even I'll be struggling to make them much better now, without fabricating some 2/3 way adjusters for them - I'm thinking about it....

Some more good news came over the weekend as Tom from Gripper gave us a ring, who has one of the old differentials to look at with the aim of having a plate-type limited slip made, and after some studying he thinks it's definately possible to drop a unit in that's robust enough for our abuse, so we should have that soon, for some much needed traction

I think that'll have to go in during the summer break when there's a free month between races so we can take our time to build a good gearbox up out of all our spares.

So, a good start to the season with 100pts in the bag, here's hoping the rest goes as well and we can concentrate on making the car faster rather than repairing it for a change!

• Well, apart from catching a car up, hitting the horn, and the car in front promptly rolling over onto it's roof....cue muggins here running up a welsh hillside in overalls and helmet waving like a nutter to attract a marshall.

I know the horn is pretty loud, but I didn't think it was enough to make a whole car jump

And some pictures:

Got some photo's from the last event of 2010 at Ebbw vale, need to set the scanner up so for now you'll have to put up with photographs of photo's

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

Resized to 55% (was 2048 x 1536) - Click image to enlarge

And some more work on the car...

Right, no, we haven't been spending all our time in the pub (more's the pity), just haven't had much time with the photos due to pulling the engine/gearbox/etc all back out again so we could change the clutch (cracked the plate and worn yet another splined center out), and weld in the upgraded suspension bits:

As you can see, the torsion bars have been removed, along with the frankly knackered bushes and spring plates (they wear out rapidly from all the grit that gets in, then the back wheel toes in and out of it's own accord and the car steers where it likes!), the bushes are about £120 a set and when they're dying after an event and knackered after a few it's a bit tiring.
Anyway, if you look, the whole thing has now been replaced with a chromoly rose joint, clamped in double shear between those plates (the gap will be plated over and welded between the pegs to stiffen the whole thing up at the front).

In case you are wondering, the gap between the plates is that large as the rose joint runs side spacers - these serve two purposes - one, they allow me to wrap the joint in a neoprene sealing boot to keep the mud and water out (which will also be packed with grease to reduce the heat and wear in the joint).
In addition to that, the gap should allow the mud to drop out of the back of the plates, to prevent damage to the boot - seems a little backwards having a larger opening for the mud to get in there to start with I know, but with a small gap all you need is one small stone/clump of mud to stick and then all the muddy slop/stones build up behind it.

More pictures soon, I promise

I'll have to as Rob over at www.gtechniq.com has kindly donated some more products that will now work on the side polycarbonate windows, some of their P1 polish, and dirt repellent coating for both the paintwork and the mudguards in an effort to keep the buildup of mud off the car and the stickers visible - seems a little tarty for us I know, but it's not uncommon to scrape 30-40kg of mud off the car if it's a wet event, that's a fair chunk on a light car such as ours.
Personally I think Rob's sitting at home laughing his tit's off at me having to polish this thing, it's gonna take a tub of elbow grease the size of a swimming pool!

Edit: You can also see the upper secondary torsion bar there - the one that runs across the back above the beam - it's attached via rocker arms and rose-jointed droplinks, and can be set as either a secondary spring that lifts the spring rate at a certain point in the travel, or stiffened up and set to use a softer version of a bumpstop to prevent the chassis hitting the floor, depending on the course.

 

[PhillipM]

Finished reading? Breathed a sign of relief that you finally got to the end, and looking forward to just some nice short updates?

Sorry, get the coffee back out...

And a bit of makeshift modifications to the arms to space the rear dampers apart so that we can run springs on both pairs of coilovers, it also grabs the shock in double shear instead of single - as the bumpstops are on the dampers rather than the body now it makes it less likely to bend a bolt on a big impact.

Not the best arm design in the world due to the cut and shut but it's more than functional, we'll probably make a couple of lighter, stiffer ones during the break in the race come summer.

The open area to the right you can see will be plated in with some drilled/pressed 1.2mm steel sheet to tie the upper and lower tubes together, which will stiffen up the connection between the inner damper and the hub without adding much in the way of weight.

In other news, the Bay of E has turned up trumps with a brand new half-decent TIG welder without breaking the racing budget, picking it tomorrow, so lots more formed alloy components and brackets to save weight will be appearing through the year after a bit of practice, hopefully!





And a few small updates in the few days after:

Quote

Anyway, all the new suspension is one and setup - the dampers want some valving changes but we're waiting on the new sets of rear springs (for some reason, Demon tweaks and Rally Design don't keep 24" long coilover springs in stock,

), so I'll leave those until I know precisely how it behaves on those. There's also another 20mm travel available with the new parts so I'll need to alter the stops in the dampers anyway.

Waiting on a new paddle clutch arriving (mullered the centre in yet another one), before we can put the engine in and rear cage/bodywork, etc, on though, so going to be some long nights this week!



Quote
Well, the firm that were looking at the clutch don't look like they can make a centre now, so last minute rush around to weld a centre in the old plate and hope like hell that it:

a) Holds up

Is ready before friday!

Last minute rush again!
Anyone know a clutch firm that could possibly do a very short notice rush job on a custom drive plate?



Quote
Well, springs are here

Brake pads are here

Nice clutch firm sent us some new splined centres out for free because they couldn't do us a plate, which are being machined to fit the old paddle plate as we speak

And the engine is still sat in the corner and half the frame and bodywork is on the floor, 's gonna be a looong day today!




And an update the next morning:

Quote
Well, shiny red new arms, casing and rose joints:

Shiny red new XP10 brake pads:

And new damper mounts to allow twin springs so the torsion bars can be chucked:

Oh, and the disc 'wear' after ~15 months of racing abuse.

That'd be, errr, none then.

Just about ready to give it a quick run in the morning to bed the brakes in and then load up and head to Waterbeach.

 

[PhillipM]

It's like Duracell-powered posting...

And after Waterbeach:

Quote

Well, the weather was fantastic, the course was nice - albiet a bit of an outright power course - lots of fast stuff, the engine didn't explode, the temperatures stayed reasonable, all the wheels stayed on, new brake pads feel like someone threw a brick wall in the way, the new suspension held up just fine and the car rides the rough stuff like a bloody magic carpet with a rocket up it's arse

Unfortunately, we had the Curse Of Waterbeach return in an exact re-run of last year the bloody throttle cable snapped just before the finish on the last lap!
After burning our hands and removing a few yards of skin trying to wedge it open to trundle the last straight to the finish in first, we had to give up and take a maximum, a little unfortunate as it was feeling pretty quick all day.

See what we were doing when the run times come through on Tuesday (issue with the timing printer/computer), car was much easier to drive with the new suspension though.





And the next day:

Quote

Right, the drill and hammer has been out and she now sports 2 throttle cables, take that yer swine

Rear dampers are apart to give a little more damping to match the new spring rates, and the driveshafts have been tweaked to give us another 20mm of rear suspension travel. Next job is to pull the front suspension apart and replace the worn bearings and bushes (again), and perhaps some tweaks to the side scoops to flow some more cool air around the gearbox as the oil is getting a bit warm.

And beat all the dents out of the skid pans with a sledgehammer

And some piccies from Waterbeach:

Quote
I think we could use this suspension setup, ideal for Santa Pod...
Either that or fit neons and go scraping around town on a Friday night...

Really must stay off the pies.
Definately less pies.

You can see the modified front dampers on that one too - the old Bilstien canisters and floating pistons hooked up with some braided hose to an adaptor running into the original gas-emulsion (well, they're not emulsion now the canisters are on) Fox dampers.

And another

More to come yet...but maybe tommorow instead!

 

[Matt Cup]

f**king awesome mate! Great read :approve:

Would love a go in something like that, looks like a riot

 

[PhillipM]

And off we go again!

A highly sophisticated CAD* modelling and measurement system has been employed, along with our patented rapid prototyping machine and materials, to make some new mock-up side scoops to feed more air down over the gearbox and block...

Amazing eh?

The flat rear section will actually be open with just a flange for a seal on it, and then a mating piece behind it will be mounted on the bonnet to feed air into the sides. Have to do it like this or the rear bonnet won't open

The top bit will have a mating piece too to give the air somewhere to slow down and expand into - no good having a big opening if all that happens is the airflow stalls and spills around the sides!

• Cardboard Aided Design.

And some more reading for you:

Right, not got much in the way of improvements this time around I'm afraid, bar making up the new side scoops, then deciding they looked crap and didn't allow the air to expand enough and shelving them, back to the drawing board.

Anyway, with this weekends event being a 2-day race rather than one, we decided to concentrate on a bit of maintainance and setup work rather than introduce yet more new parts (got some front suspension/arm upgrades in progress, and some stiffer damping settings, but we'll wait until we can get some more testing time before fitting those)
So, spent this weekend having various sensors recalibrated to ensure they're accurate, tidied some of the wiring up that had been chopped about before to add new bits, and then sat with the laptop refining the engine mapping.

End result is 8-10lbft more torque in the 3.5 to 5krpm region, which should help a little when slogging out of a muddy corner in 3rd, etc, and a touch more power after 8k too, but only a couple more peak horsepower.
Mainly been focusing on the throttle transients to get it to respond as smooth and crisply as possible, as it sometimes had the odd hiccup when it was still on the cold engine map, and added as much fuel up the top of the rev range as possible without killing the power in order to cool the engine a little more.
And the most important bit, the nice 3ft long over-run flames are back

Reliability tweaks and refinements this month really, sorry, no pictures of new shiny bits for a change!


Regrease all the bushes and bearings on Friday, set the tracking, load up and off to Baden Hall and see how she goes!

And some more!

Lots, and lots, and lots and lots and lots of water from the sky.

I'll give a race report in a week when I've dried out...but there's a lovely shiny trophy in the house....

And have a damn good laugh at our expence...

Oh, also had a slight arguement with a concrete post.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEq1enypU6g


For once, the car won

(Seal bust in the front damper and let the gas out overnight, hence the weird bounce that threw it into the fencing).

Definately going to have step up with saving the money to get that limited slip diff as soon as possible though, it was so wet today that if you came out of a corner behind a 4wd car they pretty much disappeared whilst the car sat spinning wheels, once it got going you caught them back up under the brakes but it's a fair struggle to keep the car up where it needs to be in the results once the heavens open

And 2 posts for you picture freaks:

Meanwhile, well, this was Sunday morning....

And it still looked shiny on Monday morning after a day of racing:

One lap later it looked like this...

And the other

Still having issues with the scanner so had to resort back to taking pictures of pictures again...hence the flare from the lights (and the cut off top on one, whoops!
I've only took a few of them, I'll get some more pictures up when the scanner is sorted out, the rest are more of the same - most of the wheels in the air as per usual

All from Walters or Waterbeach.

 

[PhillipM]

And an update after the piccies:

That busy posting video and pictures I forgot to list the results. 1st in class again (in fact the only 2wd that finished), 7th overall in the awdc results, and, because we've been fairly consistant in pace through the events, we're now 3rd overall in the championship. Long way to go yet but we're hoping if we can hold off on the big upgrades whilst winter (new front suspension in the works) and just concentrate on current suspension setup and reliability mods, then we might be able to hold station there and end up with a podium, with a lot of luck.

[scooby doo mode]
Would have been second if it weren't for that pesky throttle cable!
[/scooby doo]

3 weeks later:

Right, had the rear dampers apart and put in some more low speed rebound - to compensate for the friction lost with the new rear suspension - and also put some more compression damping in the range for landing over jumps, as it's a touch soft at the back at the minute. Sounds simple but it was a pain in the arse

See how it fairs this time out - probably tweak the fronts a bit to match but we'll see how it goes first.

Two new aluminium plates ordered for the sump and gearbox guards too as we've worn a hole in them...
And two new mudguards, give the hole in the rear one from firing a rock through it off the rear tyre, and the post incident with the front one!

Day after that...

Well, dampers back on, new skid pans made and fitted, new mudguard on, fresh fluids, new mastercylinder for one of the brake circuits (score on the bore from some debris), new power steering valve and pump, and she's strapped down to the trailer ready to roll again

Even given her a polish!

And then the engine blew up again. Doh.

 

[PhillipM]

^At that event, the engine started becoming hard to start, then it lost more compression, then it started loosing more and more power, until we finished the day towing the thing to bump start it and limping around hoping like hell we didn't stall the car.
Managed to sneak it around to finish 12th. And push us up a place to 2nd in the championship even after that.

However, after the engine cooled down, that was it, kaput, no compression at all, wouldn't even try to start. I think we're overheating the side seal springs and they're breaking and the side seal is getting smashed by the intake/exhaust ports.

However, as of 2 hours ago, she runs again!