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Matts Toy........



I thought I should do something with my 172. Full details will follow but for now I'll just leave these here:

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In short dry sumped 736/774 hybrid F4R with Megane 230 turbo, ARP fasteners throughout, ACL bearings, cryogenically treated 774 Rods, 774 Pistons with coated skirts, vernier inlet cam pulley, DBW throttle, smattering of F1 sensors and a couple of other bits and bobs :)
 
whats the plan for this? hunting for big power?

Exactly the opposite really, aim is a totally flat 190ftlbs from 2000RPM to 7200RPM which will give approx 260bhp but with absolute reliability for several 10's of thousands of KMs. Dry sump not only helps ensure oiling on long corners like Gerrards but also allows 12L oil capacity so plenty more thermal mass etc. I want to build it (hopefully find some time in September to finish it) and abuse it totally for as long as we want without having to touch it ;)
 
How easy is it to get the dry sump system to work? Costs involved? (if you don't mind me asking)

We do them circa £2.5K fitted with all lines, tanks etc.

Mods required include gearbox adaptor, machining the block to remove the lower boss, plugging original feed galley, modifying new stock waterpump to FR spec, Alternator mount, Oil cooler take off etc. etc. Quite a lot of work! We do the Sump kit on it's own at £900 +VAT should you want to DIY.
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
Looks as good as ever Matt.

Can someone please explain to me a dry sump?!
 
  Mk1 MX-5 (x3), Westy
aim is a totally flat 190ftlbs from 2000RPM to 7200RPM which will give approx 260bhp but with absolute reliability for several 10's of thousands of KMs. Dry sump not only helps ensure oiling on long corners like Gerrards but also allows 12L oil capacity so plenty more thermal mass etc.

I like the sound of that, IMO too many people aim for huge power without thinking about long-term effects! Not like it'll be slow with 260bhp and all that torque everywhere anyway...

Dry sump: It's a bit of a weird term I think, as it kind of implies there is no oil in the sump! The Wiki article is pretty good I think, but basically you have two 'sumps'. The second one feeds the 'real' sump to ensure it's always full and there is plenty of oil available for pickup, even on long corners etc: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump

A bit like a swirl pot in a fuel system, I guess.

Simplistic schematic:

500px-Dry_sump.svg.png
 
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in simple terms daniel you remove the sump , and use a remote tank(resovoir) to hold the oil , usually a larger amount , and pump the oil from there round the engine with a pump usually driven off the auxillary system .

advantages , no need for baffled sump to stop oil surge , and great oil capacity thus running cooler .


190lbs ft flat torque curve from 2k to 7.5k was what i had from a dunnel built zetec with about 230bhp ..... that in a 500kg carbon car was awsome , though the turbo lump is no doubt cheaper to build and get those figures than a 2.0 NA
 
  Mercedes
These are the benefits of dry sump:

The oil capacity of a dry sump can be as big as you want. The tank holding the oil can be placed anywhere on the vehicle.


In a wet sump, turning, braking and acceleration can cause the oil to pool on one side of the engine. This sloshing can dip the crankshaft into the oil as it turns or uncover the pump's pick-up tube.

Excess oil around the crankshaft in a wet sump can get on the shaft and cut down the amount of engine power. IIRC you can gain an improvement in BHP from a dry sump.

And in sports cars you can sit the engine lower therefore improving aerodynamics
 
A bit like a swirl pot in a fuel system, I guess.

In a very simple summary this.

We do them circa £2.5K fitted with all lines, tanks etc.

Mods required include gearbox adaptor, machining the block to remove the lower boss, plugging original feed galley, modifying new stock waterpump to FR spec, Alternator mount, Oil cooler take off etc. etc. Quite a lot of work! We do the Sump kit on it's own at £900 +VAT should you want to DIY.

Wow didn't realise all the work it takes, so cool as it's not something you see often.
 
  182
Subscribed, will be following with interest! Nice to see a turbo build with an aim of reliability rather than out and out power!
 
HOW MUCH!!!! why is it so much more than a normal one

NTK Lab grade sensor made of inconel and Ti with additional machining to the hex to reduce weight - there is also only 2.5 turns of thread engagement on the sensor, again to reduce weight. Current stocked price is £1800 before discount. It is the be all and end all of Lambdas though :)
 

Daz.

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 200 RS EDC
I like that this is different and not looking for huge power - 260 is more than reasonable!

I'd be wanting a little more torque personally though :)
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
I like that this is different and not looking for huge power - 260 is more than reasonable!

I'd be wanting a little more torque personally though :)

The joy of a flat torque curve is that once you have traction it pulls smoothly, if you get a big hump in torque it breaks traction then by the time you have feathered it enough and got traction back etc, you fall off the end of it its and time to change gear and start all over again etc.

Im pitching for 200-220lbft and 280-320bhp with my Mk1 long term project, and I want that torque ideally from 4K-8.5K
 


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