clio 172
Ok, so it all started a couple of weeks ago, some 400 kilometers away from home. I was doing some highway driving when the car started hitting the limiter at 6000 revs. Actually it started as a judder, kinda like a misfire, but not quite, as I tried to overtake another car. I did some tests and sure enough, the car was hitting the limiter at 6000. Then, it started hitting the limiter at 5000 when floored it. I put the car in neutral and revved it, and when the limiter kicked in it lighted the SERV+ ABS + electric fault (the resistor light). No limp mode.
Upon arriving home, I read the fault codes: I had 2 of them, TPS and Intake temp sensor. By this time, It started going into limp mode when I turned it on in the morning, but it would come back to normal when the car reached operating temperature I guess, meaning it would kick out of limp mode. Still, if I floored it and hit the limiter it I would turn the ESP + SERV+ resistor electric MIL.
I cleared the codes, And did the usual throttle body/pedal clean, even opened the throttle body and cleaned the pot inside. I put everything back together, but still no joy.
I drove the car to the dealer in limp mode. When I got there and started the car, there was no limp mode, just the stored faults. I took one of the mechanics for a ride, and while the limiter was still kicking in at 6000-6500 revs, I could not get the ESP light to light up. Or any other light, for the matter (CEL was still on).
We came back to the dealership and the guy hooked up the CLIP to my car. There was a large amount of stored faults, but the only "active"one (shown as a red light in clip) was the TPS fault. Oddly, while skimming through the live data, he also showed me that my MAP sensor had an incorrect initial reading (he said the atnmospheric pressure was off by maybe 25%). He also said that the Throttle body seemed to be working correctly but didnt have a value at WOT. Coolant temp was 95 degrees I think.
Anyway, he cleared the codes, and I went for a ride. Actually I gave the car a good blast for a couple of hours. The limiter would sometimes kick in at 7000+ revs (when the shifter lights up), sometimes it would kick in at 6000, sometimes at 5000. After a couple of hours of this I managed to light up the SERV + ESP again. Took it to the dealer again, the mechanic plugged the CLIP and:
MAP sensor fault, DTC fault. The mechanic also said thet when the MAP lights up the TDC lights up as well (????). This faults only showed up using CLIP, there was no "check engine" light.
Today I swapped the MAP with a meggy one (known to be good), went out for a ride again, hitting the limiter at 4000, 5000, 6000, even in neutral. When the check engine light lit up, I scanned the codes (generic scanner, not clip) and the only fault I was getting was the generic TPS fault. Meggy is running fine with my map sensor.
So basically:
- can a faulty throttle body be causing the limiter to kick in early? Is there a way to check the TB with a multimeter?
- What the F could be causing the rev limiter? I mean Its not steady at 6000 (this would indicate CTS right?), it sometimes comes as low as 4000 revs.
Should I open up the loom and look for damage?
The mechanic did suggest that he could run the cables from the throttle body to the ecu. This seems like something I could do myself lol, so how do I locate the throttle body cables @ the ecu?
Any help much appreciated
Upon arriving home, I read the fault codes: I had 2 of them, TPS and Intake temp sensor. By this time, It started going into limp mode when I turned it on in the morning, but it would come back to normal when the car reached operating temperature I guess, meaning it would kick out of limp mode. Still, if I floored it and hit the limiter it I would turn the ESP + SERV+ resistor electric MIL.
I cleared the codes, And did the usual throttle body/pedal clean, even opened the throttle body and cleaned the pot inside. I put everything back together, but still no joy.
I drove the car to the dealer in limp mode. When I got there and started the car, there was no limp mode, just the stored faults. I took one of the mechanics for a ride, and while the limiter was still kicking in at 6000-6500 revs, I could not get the ESP light to light up. Or any other light, for the matter (CEL was still on).
We came back to the dealership and the guy hooked up the CLIP to my car. There was a large amount of stored faults, but the only "active"one (shown as a red light in clip) was the TPS fault. Oddly, while skimming through the live data, he also showed me that my MAP sensor had an incorrect initial reading (he said the atnmospheric pressure was off by maybe 25%). He also said that the Throttle body seemed to be working correctly but didnt have a value at WOT. Coolant temp was 95 degrees I think.
Anyway, he cleared the codes, and I went for a ride. Actually I gave the car a good blast for a couple of hours. The limiter would sometimes kick in at 7000+ revs (when the shifter lights up), sometimes it would kick in at 6000, sometimes at 5000. After a couple of hours of this I managed to light up the SERV + ESP again. Took it to the dealer again, the mechanic plugged the CLIP and:
MAP sensor fault, DTC fault. The mechanic also said thet when the MAP lights up the TDC lights up as well (????). This faults only showed up using CLIP, there was no "check engine" light.
Today I swapped the MAP with a meggy one (known to be good), went out for a ride again, hitting the limiter at 4000, 5000, 6000, even in neutral. When the check engine light lit up, I scanned the codes (generic scanner, not clip) and the only fault I was getting was the generic TPS fault. Meggy is running fine with my map sensor.
So basically:
- can a faulty throttle body be causing the limiter to kick in early? Is there a way to check the TB with a multimeter?
- What the F could be causing the rev limiter? I mean Its not steady at 6000 (this would indicate CTS right?), it sometimes comes as low as 4000 revs.
Should I open up the loom and look for damage?
The mechanic did suggest that he could run the cables from the throttle body to the ecu. This seems like something I could do myself lol, so how do I locate the throttle body cables @ the ecu?
Any help much appreciated
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