Need to replace crank seal and timing belt. Separate jobs or pull engine?

[alistairolsen]

So have a clio with a leak from the crank seal behind the flywheel. I know I can address this by removing the subframe, gearbox etc and installing it with the engine supported from above.

It's done few miles so the tensioner/idlers/dephaser will be fine, but the cambelt is just over 5 years old so that needs done too. I have no qualms at all about doing the job and I've seen all the warnings etc.

Question is, am I best to approach these as separate jobs, with the engine in the bay, or does the combination mean its worth removing it? If so, out of the top or the bottom?

What would you do, and what else should I consider doing whilst I have access?

Thanks

 

[colesy]

If doing it at home on the driveway I’d pull it out the top and do it all in one go. But if you have access to a ramp I’d leave the engine in and drop the subframe/gearbox.
As for jobs while it’s out, I’d whip off the sump and fit some arp rod bolts and reseal the sump. I’d also consider replacing the clutch if it’s not been done before.

 

[Martin_172]

As above id look at it as an ideal time to whip the engine out and do a few other jobs assuming space/time isn't an issue

 

[robzracing]

Definitely do them at the same time but no need to remove engine. That’s a load more work that isn’t necessary.
While you’ve got the box out you can move the engine over and up enough to get much better access to the cam belt.
A days work to do both if you’re handy with the tools (and have the correct tools)


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[alistairolsen]

Definitely do them at the same time but no need to remove engine. That’s a load more work that isn’t necessary.
While you’ve got the box out you can move the engine over and up enough to get much better access to the cam belt.
A days work to do both if you’re handy with the tools (and have the correct tools)


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[alistairolsen]

Clearly I'm being dim and cant get multiquotes to work. Excuse me.

I don't have access to a ramp. I can borrow a hoist and do it on stands. Sump reseal is a plan. ARP bolts wont happen due to budget and not intending to keep it long.

Space isn't a huge issue. Time isn't either insofar as I don't need it for work, but I could do with it done in a couple of weekends.

Makes sense if I can move it over and leave the exhaust, aircon, loom, coolant etc all connected.

Subframe off, uprights out, shafts out, steering rack disconnected and subframe off, then box out to do the seal, shift it over (on a beam I assume with no mounts) and do the cambelt? Sump should be clear too at that point?

 

[robzracing]

Clearly I'm being dim and cant get multiquotes to work. Excuse me.

I don't have access to a ramp. I can borrow a hoist and do it on stands. Sump reseal is a plan. ARP bolts wont happen due to budget and not intending to keep it long.

Space isn't a huge issue. Time isn't either insofar as I don't need it for work, but I could do with it done in a couple of weekends.

Makes sense if I can move it over and leave the exhaust, aircon, loom, coolant etc all connected.

Subframe off, uprights out, shafts out, steering rack disconnected and subframe off, then box out to do the seal, shift it over (on a beam I assume with no mounts) and do the cambelt? Sump should be clear too at that point?

Yep, that's it. Sump can be tricky as the bolts can round off easily and it needs to aligned properly when it goes back on. If its not leaking and you're not doing the rod bolts leave it be.
Also, rear main seal needs to be left sticking out a couple of mil. It's easy to knock it in too far. Bad design unfortunately.

 

[alistairolsen]

Yeah I've seen a few posts about the rear main seal and have a picture of how it should be installed. Given this engine was fitted just before i bought the car and it leaks catastrophically within 1000 miles im going to assume its been installed incorrectly (unless the crank is ruined).