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Nervous feel in my steeringwheel ?!



  RS RIP
My 172 Ragnotti (cup) went for a service (oilchange, sparkplugs etc.) and the guy changed the front tyres to the rear , vice versa..

Driving home the car was steering totally differently then before, a bit nervous/"searching" (? not really neutral when going straight) and also vibrating in the steeringwheel.

Now this could be normal ofcourse, because the front tyres had worn alot differently in comparison to the back ones. So i had it aligned (?) and the car seemed okay at first but i'm convinced it's still not right ! It's less nervous (still different) and still you can sometimes feel a bit of vibration..

Now i've noticed (on the computer-printout they give you) that the car was aligned to a Phase 3 setting. Could it be that they were wrong to use this setting because the cup/ragnotti has a different suspension/setting ?? :dapprove:

I thought i'd ask here first before i get the standard b*****t answers at the tyrecenter to send me home not satisfied.

Please your opinions , chears
 
Last edited:

MRBILLYUK

ClioSport Club Member
  FF Jeden Osiem Dwa
Sounds like your wheels need balancing with the vibrating steering wheel . Also sounds like the tracking is set up wrong . Budget tyres did my tracking on my old 172 and it felt shite afterwards , i took it to another place and it was way out , they set it up and it felt normal again .
 
  RS RIP
think i'll go back to the tyrecentre... get it balanced as well , but the nervous steering (specially when driving hard) has got to go !

The service i get there is good, see if they will give it a second try with the alignement (tracking?)

anyone else know if the setting for the 172 cup are the same as the phase 3 ?

Excuse my english, i'm dutch with little practice
 

Gaz_

ClioSport Club Member
  Extreme mode
i know the castor angles are different on the cup, and i was under the impression the toe settings were different too, i'm sure edde will know

whats the tread depth like on the front tyres?, i found when mine are low, mine too feels more nervous and 'tramlines' more (follows the road camber etc)
 
  RS RIP
the old front tyres had worn out pretty much on the outside of the tire (!) but that drove okay, no vibrations and easy handling (one finger on the wheel) also when driving hard 180km/h.

The back tyres (now in front) are MUCH better, have about 5mm more on them. These are basicly worn much less and straight.

The old front tyres have 1mm on the outsides (worn out) and 2/3 towards the middle.
 
  172 ph1 ASBO SLAYER
i take it your wheels have been swapped front to rear if so were your tyre pressures adjusted
 
  RS RIP
i know the castor angles are different on the cup, and i was under the impression the toe settings were different too, i'm sure edde will know

whats the tread depth like on the front tyres?, i found when mine are low, mine too feels more nervous and 'tramlines' more (follows the road camber etc)



Tyrepressure ; This is the first thing i checked at the first gasstation i passed ;) . I put 2,3 in the front (later tried 2,5) and the rear 2,2 or 2,1

Can the castor + toe-settings be changed ?? Or are these actually the ones they adjust when readjusting the tracking ?
Maybe pm Edde ??
 

Gaz_

ClioSport Club Member
  Extreme mode
pm edde, he's the man with all the info ;)

toe in and out can certainly be changed
 
  RS RIP
been doing some reading/Google-ing on camber,castor + toe. It seems you cant touch the castor on most modern cars, not sure about Clio.

After checking the printout i got again, i found out they didnt do anything with the camber, barely changed the castor (not worth mentioning) , it's all in the Toe that they made the changes.
Strangely they went from a positive value to a negative one , which seems pretty drastic to me,
Also they did'nt even touch the rear wheels... :boring:

I think they did a 15min job on mine :nono:

We'll see tomorrowmorning, going back !

I just went out for a run and drove hard but the car has turned evil; it's really scary to drive, as nervous as it is, when TRYING to have a go:eek:
 

Gaz_

ClioSport Club Member
  Extreme mode
i meant the caster is different on a cup from normal a 172.... (that cant be changed as you say)

also i'm not sure the rears can be adjusted at all, most cars are like this?
 
  RS RIP
now today i've talked with two people who should know cause they're in tires.

The one (Profile Tyrecentre) says the frontwheels have to point outwards a bit ("Toe-out),
the other one (Renospecialist) told me that they should slightly be pointing in (Toe-in)

...:eek: ...:banghead:

I would think the Reno man knows best, taking my car there (30km away) so he can have a go

Jezus how can it be this difficult ????
 
The Cup has a differnt setup to the others in the range
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=133900

Toe in out can be adjusted theres no ideal spec some like in some like out.

Camber is none adjustabe realy unless you use correction bolts etc but if you need them to return to stock then you've got a problem.

Rears can be adjustred but you need shims. Noone would ever realy need to unless you've done afair bit to your car first.

I've attached the file here as hopefully someoen will email you them on to you since as a none member you cannot I realise now use the link I posted.
 

Attachments

  • Suspension setups.pdf
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  RS RIP
This is the best Edde ! :D thanks a billion !!!

I think indeed there is no ideal setting because this will be different for everyone,
but it does show they have used the wrong equations for my CUP :rasp:

Everyone thanks, going to work with it now . Will be nice to have a driveable car during winter...

cheeeeaaaars this is why the forum is so nice to check out!!
 
  Jap Shed
The Cup has a differnt setup to the others in the range
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=133900

Toe in out can be adjusted theres no ideal spec some like in some like out.

Camber is none adjustabe realy unless you use correction bolts etc but if you need them to return to stock then you've got a problem.

Rears can be adjustred but you need shims. Noone would ever realy need to unless you've done afair bit to your car first.

I've attached the file here as hopefully someoen will email you them on to you since as a none member you cannot I realise now use the link I posted.


edde, is this all still applicable to Rs's with 17's on?
 
edde, is this all still applicable to Rs's with 17's on?

Yep different wheels and tyres don't matter.

IF your not happy take it to another garage skills vary you often find the bact street place with a wonky cheap gauage can setup more accuratly than the suped dupa place who has all the lasers under the sun.
 


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