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Newbie Needs help :-)



:-D Hello I'm new here. Looking for some help with an 1.2 E type engine.

Mk1 1.2 E type engine was misfiring so I started to check the spark plugs while trying to remove one of the plugs it snapped and left just the thread in the hole. So I took the head off and removed the old thread, Put 4 new plugs + new HT leads + new gasket + cam belt + all other bolts ECT.

All back together and it still wont start. It sparks but only one cylinder every 2 secs spark but it doesn't start.

Did the normal checks for this kind of problem. Fuel. Spark. Timing.


Regards, Rob.
 
Also had new in-let gasket. New oil. :)

I've check that fuel is getting into each cylinder not just to the throttle body.
 
  ValverInBits
If the spark only occurs once every 2 secs or so then perhaps the coil(s) are on their way out.
Is the bad spark consistent throughout the 4 cylinders.

And your not "new here" lol!
 
If the spark only occurs once every 2 secs or so then perhaps the coil(s) are on their way out.
Is the bad spark consistent throughout the 4 cylinders.

And your not "new here" lol!

I thought it sounded kinda like a new-bie question :p But i'm finding it really hard to fix lol.

Thing is the 'spark' doesn't happen every 2 seconds its I only hear the fuel getting ignited every 2 seconds. (while keep turning the engine over) so I thought it was only sparking in one cylinder as every 2 seconds its another turn of the crank
But when I check the spark on its own it sparks like its meant to so i know every cylinder is getting a spark.. This made me think timing but I checked that
 
  ValverInBits
this 2 seconds thing. Do you mean that you turn it over on the key and every 2 seconds it has a splutter?
How have you tested the spark? Remember it's harder for the plugs to spark in the compressed air in the chamber.
So if the sparks are ok, is it fuelling problems?

When you fitted the cambelt how did you re-time it? Have you done a compression test yet?
 
Just had another thought I never checked if this car had an immobiliser. I swear if I go out there and all I have to do is lock the door and then unlock it and it starts I'm going cry ( while putting all the f**king cam covers and engine mouths and s**t back on again )
 
this 2 seconds thing. Do you mean that you turn it over on the key and every 2 seconds it has a splutter?
How have you tested the spark? Remember it's harder for the plugs to spark in the compressed air in the chamber.
So if the sparks are ok, is it fuelling problems?

When you fitted the cambelt how did you re-time it? Have you done a compression test yet?

Yes every 2 seconds it has a splutter :) much better way of putting it lol.

Tested all the HT leads with a voltage meter.

I've checked to see if it was getting fuel but I'm not sure of a way of checking how much fuel and air mixture is getting to the chambers.

Didn't do a compression test yet. well did with my finger just to make sure there is a small bit of pressure.
 
  ValverInBits
is it the imobiliser then?
I'm just about out of ideas without it being in front of me.

I've never heard of anyone using a voltmeter for spark testing. Thought that'd just ruin the voltmeter? Better to carefully hold the HT lead and see if it'll spark to the block. Should be able to jump around 1.5cm.
I know very little about the E type engines. Is the ignition controlled by the ECU? is it injection? could you relate this problem to a dodgy crank position sensor?
 
is it the imobiliser then?
I'm just about out of ideas without it being in front of me.

I've never heard of anyone using a voltmeter for spark testing. Thought that'd just ruin the voltmeter? Better to carefully hold the HT lead and see if it'll spark to the block. Should be able to jump around 1.5cm.
I know very little about the E type engines. Is the ignition controlled by the ECU? is it injection? could you relate this problem to a dodgy crank position sensor?

Its not the kind of voltmeter your thinking but its like this
51NIw%2BU4hJL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

I often work alone so never can place the HT lead in the right place always falls off.
Saying that i normally check them by keeping the spark plug in the HT lead and just earthing the Spark plug and watching for a spark on that.

And on the E-type there controlled by the rotor arm. Only went up to electronic on d-Type
 
Last edited:
  ValverInBits
Oh right, that spark tester looks spot on.

crank position sensor then? giving bad signal to the ECU for fuelling?
 
I'm starting to think it must be the timing so I'm going check that again. It did a cough back today.
Flames out the throttle body so it must be timing
 
  ValverInBits
Did you time the cam to some white marks that someone had drawn or did you time it to the factory dent cast in the pulley?
If you've been following f0xy's thread, thats the mistake he made and it cost half his valves iirc.
 
Did you time the cam to some white marks that someone had drawn or did you time it to the factory dent cast in the pulley?
If you've been following f0xy's thread, thats the mistake he made and it cost half his valves iirc.

The little TDC mark on the CAM pulley that is indented. Also the flywheel marking what you see though the gearbox.
 
Did a couple more testes. Compression of all cylinders is the same.
Took spark 1 off and turned the engine to feel if any fuel was coming out. and it spit a nice flame out of the spark plug hole.
I'm getting more confused :(
 
Did a couple more testes. Compression of all cylinders is the same.
Took spark 1 off and turned the engine to feel if any fuel was coming out. and it spit a nice flame out of the spark plug hole.
I'm getting more confused :(

How else can flames come out of a spark plug hole when the head gasket is fine.
 


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