NOS

[Kelly]

Anyone got NOS for their Willy?? (ooh, err, sounds rude lol)

Seriously tho?

I have been thinking about it, but was wondering if anyone has done it already and is there anything I need to know ie. is any part of my car likely to blow up, lol

Was thinking about progressive jets with a controller, but nothing more than 75bhp shots

This sound okay or should i go for 100....

Advice peeps please

 

[LOUDWILLIAMS]

alrite..NOS on a williams would be wicked. I dont know much about it but ive been in a car with it and it kicks. Also while im here...r you the girl with the williams from cruise north west? cause i thick your the one who put mine on your web site from the wigan/warrington cruise, nice one.

col

 

[Simon]

Nick Reed is the person you want to speak to. Hes running NOS on his 16v with williams gearbox. The setup must be similar.

 

[Kelly]

Hiya Col! Yea thats me You the one with the super shiny Williams with the recond wheels?

Always hide mine from yours cos...well.. mine has the used look! LOL

Yea, okay i cant be arsed washing it much

Come say ello next time


Nick Reed huh... anyone got his E-mail addy?

 

[ChavyBoy]

nick@cliosport.net

 

[Anders]

Let us know which type you go for if you do..i.e. wet, dry or even straight injection.

Ta

 

[LOUDWILLIAMS]

lol, nice one kel, ill say hello next sat cause im assuming thats your name for the rr day, i think you car looks sweet, ive only had mine 3 month thats how i bought the car but im getting the wheels done again cause i want the eges dimond cut and who ever has done then its not a great job realy. and deffo ill say hello,
take care
col

 

[coolspot007007]

i spoke to Nick Read a while back he has the ecoblaster 100i kit, from nitrous solutions, he said go straight for the 50 jets without a controller, and an 11Lb bottle, with that kit you need to drill the throttle body. Other useful kit - adjustable fuel regulator (power boost valve) and an air/fuel ratio meter so you can get your fuelling right which is IMPORTANT! i think nick has a progressive controller now, not sure on make, hence his 100bhp jets.

Ill be at the R/R day too

 

[Nick Read]

Maybe I should do an FAQ...

Anyway its pretty much as coolspot said already. The only place to put the injector in is in the side of the throttle body. The Willy block will take a 50 shot straight off the bat, no progressive required. If youre buying the kit mail order and fitting it yourself, make sure you get the 50 jets.

Mines on 100 with a controller at the moment, the lump will take 100 without the controller but it doesnt do it much good and the whole 100 shot dumping in the instant you floor it is the kind of thing which will burn out your clutch or break your gearbox if you do it too much.

If you wanna start cheap, get the standard Ecoblaster 100i kit with a 11lb bottle upgrade. 5lb is way too small and will run out fast. Hook it all up, see how you like it and then go for the progressive if you feel like you want more. I would definitely advise wiring in an air/fuel ratio meter and fitting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, just for peace of mind and engine safety. Basically you cannot knacker your engine on this setup - unless you let the mixture go lean when youre firing the gas. And with the adjustable fuel pressure and a gauge to watch the mix, its a piece of cake to get it spot on.

 

[BenR]

Nick, just a quic ques...did you have to test different fuel jets to make sure the running was spot on....i had to rrun rucher jets to avoid detonation.

 

[Nick Read]

Nitrous Solutions did the original testing and running up when the kit was installed, resulting in a 60hp jetting. The standard nitrous jet sizes correspond to a standard fuel jet size which is not the same. Anyway they set it up slightly overrich to err on the size of caution, when I decided to refit the whole system on a controller with 100 jets, I went one step leaner on the fuel jet, cos I wanted to get the AFR more stoich. At the moment it runs two LEDs into the green on gas, one LED into the green on normal full throttle.

 

[adiclio16v]

how do you wire in an air/fuel ratio meter

does it run of your existing lama sensor or do you have to fit another one

 

[coolspot007007]

just off the standard AFAIK

 

[Kasius]

AFAIK ? wheres the best place to get a air/fuel ratio meter ? lol

 

[coolspot007007]

demon tweeks i should think, nick got his from a nitrous place i think

 

[Dave Hester]

Nick did you do the drilling of the throttle bodie yourself, or did nitrous solutions do it for you? Ive just bought the same kit as you with an 11lb chrome bottle, bit pricy at £240 but it will look nice when i get it in, Not very impressed with the bottle mounts though! there only flimsy jubilee clips

 

[BenR]

you can dril the plastic link pipe between TB and airbox......thats more than enough

 

[BRUN]

how much would a Nitrous setup cost of just say, 35bhp ?

i might consider getting one if there upgradeable and try it on my RT before i get the Megane conversion

 

[Nick Read]

Use the standard lama sensor signal between the sensor and the ECU. If memory serves me correctly,its pin 37 on the ECU that you need to tap into.

Demon Tweeks dont do them. When I was looking for one last year, the weird thing was that such an essential gauge was almost impossible to find, there were loads of useless gauges out there like Ammeters etc but no AFR! Anyway, in the end I found that Autometer did them and was about to import one from the States when I found that Autometer had a UK distributor. Its a hot rod place called Real Steel. Cant remember the number but they must have a web site. Conveniently they have a gauge for pretty much anything you might want to measure, so I got a nitrous pressure gauge as well while I was there. Only drawback with Autometer stuff is its bloody expensive compared to the normal cheap looking crap you get over here.

NS did the drilling but its not a big job. The side of the TB is pretty easy to get through. I actually got the standard 11lb bottle and stripped and polished it myself...not a nice job! The bottle mounts arent great but as long as youve got the giant jubilee clip ones theyre strong enough. Its the velcro ones you have to avoid. I advise cutting a couple of thin rubber strips to put between the bottle and the straps to keep it firm and stop the bottle getting scratched.

BTW Ben it would be nice to put it in the plastic link pipe - except the 16v and Willy dont have one! The airbox bolts directly to the throttle body with no pipe inbetween. Thats why you have to drill the tb itself so that the injector is positioned to spray in front of the throttle plate, about 1 or 2cm upstream of it. The only other option would be in the centre of the airbox, facing directly into the tb, but the back of the injector would foul on the battery I think.

 

[BRUN]

DT do do em Nick, Lumenition make one

 

[2 live]

errrrr..... forgive me if im wrong nick.. but u said with the system and set up u r running it piss easy to get spot on??????????
wot about all the times u been out playin with it to set it up right?? or poor times cos of incorrect nos setup??
or is that just good blagging?
lol

 

[Nick Read]

hehe good call Jon, I didnt mean that its easy to get spot on, but the way I have it set up is the *only* practical way to be able to do any on-car adjustments at all! As far as the air/fuel ratios go, that is spot on, and it is fairly easy to do. Just that a nitrous system isnt just about AFR, there are loads of other things as well, like ignition timing, fuel octane, progressive control parameters etc that need sorting out as well mate.

Anyway the problem at York was that the throttle switch was bouncing on full throttle and arming/disarming the system continuously...because I fitted and rewired it all myself and dont know *anyone* else who had a progressive it was only a couple of weeks ago that I realised that the pulsing of the jets was far too noticeable to be right, and the times that I was doing werent as quick as they should have been.

Did some adjustments to the switch and the way it triggers, and it runs smooth as silk and pulls like a train. Only problem is I did a whole tank of gas just driving around for fun now that its really flying - by the time I got to Santa Pod on 15s last weekend, hoping for low 14s / high 13s, I ran out of gas at 1/8 of a mile!!!! Again!

I will be there at York in October, and this time there is no way youre caning me Jon.

 

[Nick Read]

hehe good call Jon, I didnt mean that its easy to get spot on, but the way I have it set up is the *only* practical way to be able to do any on-car adjustments at all! As far as the air/fuel ratios go, that is spot on, and it is fairly easy to do. Just that a nitrous system isnt just about AFR, there are loads of other things as well, like ignition timing, fuel octane, progressive control parameters etc that need sorting out as well mate.

Anyway the problem at York was that the throttle switch was bouncing on full throttle and arming/disarming the system continuously...because I fitted and rewired it all myself and dont know *anyone* else who had a progressive it was only a couple of weeks ago that I realised that the pulsing of the jets was far too noticeable to be right, and the times that I was doing werent as quick as they should have been.

Did some adjustments to the switch and the way it triggers, and it runs smooth as silk and pulls like a train. Only problem is I did a whole tank of gas just driving around for fun now that its really flying - by the time I got to Santa Pod on 15s last weekend, hoping for low 14s / high 13s, I ran out of gas at 1/8 of a mile!!!! Again!

I will be there at York in October, and this time there is no way youre caning me Jon.

 

[BenR]

nick is running 100bhp jets....takes a bit of setting up not to destroy an engine!

im running 35bhp jets, which took about 4 hrs to get spot on......and with optimax and valvemaster plus, i could actually advance the ignition!

so, depends on how far you want to go!

 

[Nick Read]

Yeah exactly - to get in depth with it, this is what needs setting up to get it totally spot-on:
1. Bottle pressure - needs to be at 950psi / 30 degrees c.
2. Ignition timing - mine is chipped to run 4 or 5 degrees advance on full throttle. A 100hp nitrous system needs 4-6 degrees r****d when its firing. I need roughly 8-10 degrees r****d when i hit the gas, which needs to run constantly even while the solenoids are pulsing. Not easy to get right.
3. Need Optimax to make sure I dont get into the detonation zone.
4. Controller settings - need to get the right setting for initial power (35-60hp), rise time (2.0 to 9.9 seconds). There are so many combinations here and setting it for a 60hp start and 2 second rise time is definitely not the way to fast 1/4 miles unless you want a load of wheelspin!
5. Fuel pressure needs to be set correct to keep the air/fuel ratio spot on. The hotter the weather, the more fuel pressure you need.

Thats why I think that nitrous is a good option for keen 1/4 milers, but its not IMHO a handy everyday kind of mod if you just wanna go fast. You could just fit it and forget it, but Im too careful about my engine to do that. I need to know that whenever I use it, its not gonna put my engine in any danger at all. Which is why I can happily do a 15-second run on gas, 10 seconds or more of which is on a 100 hp jetting.

 

[2 live]

he he sounds like too much fiddlin for me mate lol
jus give me balls out permanant power lol
jon