ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

Pedal Potentiometer Track Circuit 2



  Breaking A 172 Replica
Ok awesome.

Thanks Daz I will go and have a go at swapping them over.

Edde - anymore input from you mate?

Thanks

Sam
 
I'm amazed realy never seen the other thread, 7 pages of faults including one red one and 3 orange ones well done.

Ok the fuse you changed was 15 AMP or least you should have used a 15 amp one if it getting hot all the time and faulting then there a wire going to earth somewhere hence the fuse is getting way to hot.

The fuse powers three things the ECU for imobiliser locking the car, the fuel pump realy and the ECU (the starter piggy backs the fuel pump relay)

The starter motor and injection locking relay are 20A ones there the two front ones of the three smaller ones on the left hand side as such of the fuse box. So worth trying checking them for starters

The fuse powers three system though (all on the yellow coloured wires (even the fuel pump piggy back)

The ECU on pinout M4 (unless you have air con in which case its different) on the black connector (the other connectros shouldn't have M4 anyway)

The fuel pump relay on point B1 with the starter realy pulling off that point and going to G1


As for the pedal well that has nothing to do with wire to the fuse it only link is that it also goes to the black connectro on the ECU. Thats leads me to suspect the ECU wiring would have to be at fault. However the ccelerator is easy to remove fault finding wise there only 2 x10mm bolts form memory holding it on plus the wiring clip. (check that its cliped on properly anyway it can come off).

The other fault yet again for the lambeda (thats the DF208 - Downstream Sensor Signal Input light) isn't again linked to the other two components apart form going into the ECU via the same plug
 
Last edited:
  Breaking A 172 Replica
Ok Edde thanks for that.

Where do I find out what things like M4 and B1 mean?

If it is coming up Orange on the CLIP machine doesn't that just mean its a fault that once happened but isn't happening anymore (and therefore I shouldn't worry about it)?

I thought it was just the red ones that could cause the electrical light to show up?

Edde - Would it be an idea for me to just bring the car to you? I will obviously pay you your normally hourly rate but it will still work out cheaper than Renault?

Thanks

Sam
 
Where do I find out what things like M4 and B1 mean?
Drop me a call you've got my number I'm sure.

M4 and B1 refere to the point the wire connect to if you look carefuly on the parts you should be able to see the parts marked where the wires go in like that (You can often need to look carefully they somtimes only marked point M! and M8 at the other end of the part as such)
 


Top