ph2 bottom end, ph1 head. Which cambelt kit?

[mini-valver]

CBA ordering the wrong kit so what do you reckon?

 

[Fred@BTM]

172? phs 2 kit

 

[mini-valver]

Yeah. Have 2 bottom ends, 1 ph1 and 1 ph2. Ph2 has done less miles and come from a belt snap/ Ph1 has had the sump cracked when crashed into a wall.

Plan is, ph1 head on ph2 BE for a quick runner, then build a proper bottom end form the potentially dead ph1, rebuild the head from the ph2 with headwork and bolt it all together, replacing the quick build.

Definately ph2??

 

[crazycup_racer]

As far as i was aware the belt kits are the same part number!

 

[mini-valver]

Nope, different kit and it buggers the timing if you have the wrong.

 

[Fred@BTM]

only difference is one of the idlers, you can buy it seperatley anyway even if you c**k up and order the wrong kit

phs 2 kit for a phs2 botom end

 

[Missing Link]

I read that all the heads were machined separately to match the block height.

It can throw the comp/ratio out if you mix and match.

 

[jack_davey]

^ I hope not! Bloody renault!

 

[Fred@BTM]

I read that all the heads were machined separately to match the block height.

It can throw the comp/ratio out if you mix and match.

doubt it!

 

[Missing Link]

It was in last months French Performance mag, Ktec were mapping the competition give away car and it was down on power.

After a check, It transpired the head was off a different motor and the comp/ratio had dropped a point.

They had to mill it to get it back to standard.

 

[Daz.]

wasn't that head/cam cover though?

I doubt a diff head on a bottom end would do anything

 

[Missing Link]

Just quoting the ktec article !!! ( Sept 09 Page 56 issue )

And the head matching part i read some place else. ( see if i can find it )

I'm redoing a engine just now and have been doing a lot of reading lately, LOL

 

[f0xy]

Im running Ph2 bottom end with Ph1 head.

Mines a Ph1 cambelt kit im sure, well the belt and tensioner are. Cant remember if the idler was off my Ph1 bottom end and swapped over, i can check tommorow though.

 

[Sean6545]

The lower idler is different between the two. Its the Hole size in the middle thats different. You can use either kit but you will have to use the little spacer that sits behind the pulley off the ph1 engine.

 

[Russ_16v]

Id get the PH2 kit fella, as said the idlers different between PH1 and 2, so as you have a PH" bottom end, order a PH2 kit

 

[sideways danny]

Yeah. Have 2 bottom ends, 1 ph1 and 1 ph2. Ph2 has done less miles and come from a belt snap/ Ph1 has had the sump cracked when crashed into a wall.

Plan is, ph1 head on ph2 BE for a quick runner, then build a proper bottom end form the potentially dead ph1, rebuild the head from the ph2 with headwork and bolt it all together, replacing the quick build.

Definately ph2??

Nope, different kit and it buggers the timing if you have the wrong.

wont effect the timing, it's literally one idler mounts on a spacer different

you have both bottom ends anyway, so just use whichever spacer you need

 

[sideways danny]

I read that all the heads were machined separately to match the block height.

It can throw the comp/ratio out if you mix and match.

huge miss-quote. That head was machined to bring it back to the correct CR, but only because of a manufacturing tollerence fault

 

[Missing Link]

Again, I'm not stating anything. The article say's that not only was the cam cover matched to the head but also the head.

I'm new to this engine and am about to build up a spare engine so i'm reading as much as i can on it.

Anyway the point i was trying to make is the miss -match / Tolerance differance cost them 37 BHP and 17 pounds of torque.

Thats a hell of chunk to lose but I suppose it could also swing the other way depending on the head.

 

[sideways danny]

i meant the magazine mis-quoted what it was told. Adam is a lovely guy and a good photographer, but i think he was slighly overwhelmed. One of the articles said the knock sensor was used to adjust fueling........lol. magazines aren't the best source for technical data. wasn't 37bhp either

 

[Missing Link]

What did they lose Danny, I was about to build one with mixed parts and that put me right off.

 

[sideways danny]

it was about 15-20bhp down IIRC. nothing to do with the wrong head being fitted, it was just one of the "bad ones"

 

[Missing Link]

Jezz, Did K-tec not proof read it ?

Were could i find a puka spec sheet on this engine, I wanted to blue print mine, and i'm reading all the wrong stuff.

Sorry about the Hi-jack Guy's

 

[sideways danny]

do you have the renault workshop manual? it's on the fastchips website for download IIRC.

not managed to find a group n build manual yet. Andy has one for the F7R/P and it's incredibly useful

 

[Missing Link]

I'll go look for it now,Cheers Fella.

A copy of a group N manual would be very handy. ( I'd pay well for that )

 

[cam_hoof]

i have got ph1 172 with a ph1 bottom end and ph2 head, works perfect and if anything it pulls better than before,

 

[Aluco]

Here you go mate

http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

 

[Andyman]

i have got ph1 172 with a ph1 bottom end and ph2 head, works perfect and if anything it pulls better than before,

Same combo as me. :approve:

Hard to tell if it made a difference.

 

[cam_hoof]

Same combo as me. :approve:

Hard to tell if it made a difference.

yeh it was not much but deffinatly an improvement,

 

[sideways danny]

placebo. the ph1 head is better. the old engine musy have been screwed

 

[Gray]

I've got the full Renault Clio cup grp .N manual / hand book...

With every part number listed aswell

 

[Missing Link]

Cheer Aluco..

So how could you work out the C/R with the cutouts on the pistons?

It's a busy combution chamber.

Do you think there is a ideal head height.

Also how safe a limit could you up it to....

Gray

Is it a paper or digital copy you have.