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Photographing paint correction...



  DCi 100
Any tips on this?

Was experimenting trying to get it decent before but I can't seem to do any consistently.

I got these;

Cdi89.jpg


jL3bU.jpg


Pc6yy.jpg


Do people find using a torch or using flash better? Head on or at an angle?

Cheers
 
  DCi 100
Got a pink (I thought it was silver >_< ) LED torch like the black CS ones I'll try it with.

Just another downside to not having a garage large enought to work inside I guess, but it's not impossible to do outside.

Worst part is the green shed ^ hasn't been washed since probably 2002, with a sponge and some fairy liquid. Should see some of the blobs of tar on it mate seriously, like skittles!
 
Lol! Loves the tar like that. Have some Tardis here buddy that'd make short work of that, if you're lacking?

Photos of Tardis doing it's job are where it's at!!

Outside does make it more difficult, but with the NW clouds pretty much here to stay, should be a little bit easier. The fun part is holding a camera, while trying to manually focus, while holding a torch as well lol!
 
  DCi 100
Never used tardis, probably worth just buying some for future use as I'm only at the beginning of getting into detailing! Cheers though :)

Will try taping the torch to the bottom of the camera or something ;)
 
  DCi 100
Might not get the flare on the light right though, going to see tomorrow when I do the rest of the bonnet.

Definatly not something I'd do to anything of value without a paint depth gauge. All the time I'm thinking "Am I taking too much off?" when there's still 10 years worth of marks on this car. Would be a different matter to something new though.
 
  DCi 100
Grab the G220 Si had for sale, then picked up the Menz sample set and 6" SFX 1/2/3 pads to play with. :)

They seem alittle to big for anything other than wide open spaces though so going to order the smaller ones when I order more clay.
 

Gally

Formerly Mashed up egg in a cup
ClioSport Club Member
Spot pads are ace to use, feel so nice to use and control, although did the arch gap with one 3m yellow pad ysterday! :eek:
 
  DCi 100
Should I avoid stone chips etc with pads though?

Only other problems I had was splatter (too much polish and turning it on too fast, need to spread it slower). And dusty-ness, which I'll just give the pad abit of tropicana.

Simples :)
 

Gally

Formerly Mashed up egg in a cup
ClioSport Club Member
The silverline I use has a slow start which is brilliant, just don't overload the pad, tbf I find dust and splatter unavoidable sometimes.
 
  DCi 100
Trying to put the polish on the pad, then dab it around the masked off area just doesn't work for me though. I end up putting one big blob on the paint and a mash of it on the pad!
 

Gally

Formerly Mashed up egg in a cup
ClioSport Club Member
Your tecnique needs worked on then, without being rude. It's not something that I could even begin to explain in a post.

Have you had a look on DW? Maybe you need more practice, some scrap panels or an old car maybe?
 
  DCi 100
I've touched paint with a DA for about 10 minutes! Telling me it needs work is a compliment lol.

Read through the DA guide afew times now, refferenced back to it after I tried it just to confirm things and to look at it at a different perspective.

The green pics up there are from a '94 Vauxhall Corsa, which hasn't been washed in TIME so is a good practice. Tons came off when I clayed it, other things like the big blobs of tar to deal with amongst all sorts of different scrapes and scratches. Plus being a whole car against a single panel, there's all sorts of different shapes I can try on. Can also get more of a realistic go at doing roofs and doors etc, laying a spare panel on the floor where you can easily reach without obsticul isn't as good a practice. All good for learning IMO :)
 
Alex, pea sized blobs of polish, max. 4/5 of them around the pad and on in the middle. Then dab the pad against the paint until it has a decent spread.

The stages of polishing depend on machine, but for a DA start on speed 2-4 for a decent number of passes to spread the polish. Then move up to 4-6 for correction. Zenith technique is great, but doesn't always work on DAs. In fact, barely ever works in my experiences with hard paint!

(zenith is speed 2, speed 4, speed 6 and back down again to correct any minor marring the major correcting has caused).
 
  DCi 100
Can't find my bladdy torch now! :dapprove:

Polished the bottom half of the bonnet today which took me about two hours, spreading was miles easier, I have the slow speed stuff down now. Just getting the high speed correction done I reckon is my weakest point.

Qh8yd.jpg


Ended up putting a pair of gloves on because it was killing my palms :eek:

It looked like someone put iceing sugar all over the parts I wasn't polishing after abit though, major major dustage! That's the polish drying up or is it actual paint coming off?

Even cutting hard into the paint it didn't seem like I was correcting much, I reckon it's down to not doing more than 3 or so passes on the highest speed.

Experiments continue..
 
Experimentation is where it's at my friend.

Dusting is just a hazzard of the Menz polishes buddy. Some put up with it, find ways around it, or switch to other polishes like 3M (Ali has recently).

Re the passes, far more required buddy. Like 12. At least. Because the DA just does not provide the heat that a rotary does. I tend to find I'm doing 4 spreading, 12-16 cutting and 4 finishing (passes that is) with a DA to make Menz polishes break down. Also bare in mind how warm/cold the weather is will affect the break down. If it's a little on the chilly side, put the bottle of Menz in a water bath (hot water in a bucket) to ease useage.

Do not be embarrassed by the gloves ;);

View attachment 42193
 
  E87 118d M Sport
After one hit and you think your done (if you still have a cloudy looking finish or whatever you called it), spray the pad with water from a spray bottle. just enough to lightly cover the surface of the pad, but not wet.
Then hit the panel again. Means you can attack the panel with any remaining polish you have on the pad/panel. Means your doing a thorough job and not wasting any product.
Doesnt work for everyone, but works for me.
Dusting isnt a problem if your using quite an abrasive product or hard pad, but you shouldnt really get it on a DA if you are 'finishing' (I havent really read the thread so sorry if youve mentioned what products you are using)
 
  Not a 320d
Static light source, like a big yellow halogen light, and also, move your camera in such a way that the light from the halogen reflects in the middle of that 50/50 line.
 
  DCi 100
My arms will get destroyed doing atleast a douzen on 5/6! Houwwww lol!

Will get hold of another bucket, and a spray bottle for water. Used QK, just sprayed a single pull on the pad, seemed to wet the pad enought. Still need to put a mark on the backing plate.

Is it safe to polish over dust if it's on the panel, or should it be fully removed before passing over again once it pops up?

Cheers for the info, muchos appreciato!
 
  E87 118d M Sport
Its fine mate. Its not "dust" its polish. When machining polishing your basically scratching the surface with progressively finer scratches that, eventually, you cant see. The less abrasive the product the more like liquid it becomes and the less chance of "dusting". The trick is to ensure you are breaking it down to a level where it is clear. Then wipe and done.
Its difficult to explain without visually seeing it but you'll get there.

As far as the arms/hands hurting, try supporting the machine not grasping it. With a DA you are in complete control of it. With a smaller pad it can get quite brutal, but the larger ones shoud be okay.
Or failing that, buy a rotary. ;)
 
  DCi 100
I'll stick with the DA for now!

Understand what you mean abit the breaking down. From this being spread:

P1010003-7.jpg

(Nabbed from the guide on DW)

To totally clear..

I tend to try and hold it loosely but I guess it's just getting used to the nature of such a thing. I don't hold very long thick vibrating things very often :eek:

Next step is to do hella more passes to a form a 'hit'! :)
 
Alex, QD or water as Markie has said will aid this. There are products out there called Pad Lube I s**t you not. There is always a niche for new products. But the above work just fine without the £11 bottle!

As Markie has said, it does sound a litte more like spatter than dusting. If you are spattering, lol, then either the machine is on too high a setting for spreading or there is too much polish on the pad.
 
Oh and with regards to holding the machine, you will get more and more use to it. I bet the steering wheel and gearstick/handbrake were in funny positions/felt weird to start with, but you've got the hang of that now :)
 
  DCi 100
Just been using this half bottle of tropicana I had left over from the Le Mans trip that everyone raped mate.

LOL @ Pad Lube though. I feel ashamed enought using 'Clay lube'. If I had a girlfriend she's be ashmed of me! :)

The dusting I was reffered to it more like fine crainey bits, appearing around the pad as I pass it across the paint. I could see I had splattering on saturday straight off as it was like smears of wetness across the paintwork. As if it'd just flew out from the pad.

Steering wheel/Handbrake etc were pretty natural feel, nothing compared to this foot long girthy vibrator! :eek:

I totally understand 'Forearms' now!
 


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