Project Lightweight, Trackday Clio 172

[scullyg40]

Allright, so this is my first post on this forum. I came to this forum because I recently bought my second Clio 172, solely for the track. Since this forum is very much track orientated, I can find a lot of usefull info on here, so thanks for that to you all.

My name is Stefan, I am 34 years old, and I come from a small town in the North-east of the Netherlands. I currently have a phase 1 Clio 172 from 2000, and a BMW 130i for daily driving. The 130i will mostly remain standard, but since most of you will probably find this an interesting car as well, I will keep this car updated here as well.

So these are the two cars:

The BMW on it's old wheels, which I didn't really like:

So I got a set of AC Schnitzer type 3, which are being refurbished at the moment, and will be painted dark grey. In the back I will put a 10 mm spacer:

I also bought a set of BMW Motorsport style 216 in E90 offset for the winter:

The car came with a carkit, and I hate these things, because they really downgrade the interior, so it had to come out:

Which was quite a job:

Then I upgraded the subframe bushings, to delete the loose back end. The originals have quite some room, which can be seen in one of the next pictures:

To get the old ones out, I put the jack under the subframe, put a lot of ballast in the trunk, including the 100+ kg owner, and let gravity do the rest along with a lot of heat:

While I was up there, I also installed the towing bar, detachable of course, along with the electrical circuit:

That it's for now for the BMW, other than refurbishing the AC Schnitzers, and installing a new gear knob, I don't have much plans for this car other than to enjoy it. The six cilinder really is a pleasure to drive.

The towing bar has a function ofcourse, and other than towing the mobile home on holidays, I also bought this to take the Clio to the track:

It weighs 327 kg's, which is important for me, because the BMW only is allowed to pull 1200 kg's. Which means I have to get the weight of the Clio down to 873 kg's. I don't know if that's possible, but at least I have a goal, and I don't think it will be a problem if I go a little bit over the maximum pulling weight.

The first things I want to do to the Clio are:
-replace original filter
-brake cooling
-new brake fluids
-towing hooks

The first thing I did was put back the original filter, as it came with the car, instead of the cheap open air filter that was there. When I look at the original airbox/filter, I cannot see why another system would give much improvement, as it seems to be a very good design.

Also, the biggest mod of the year, is installing a panoramic rear view mirror. It works, but I expect more inprovement when I will install the bucketseats, so that I am not looking to myself anymore, but more to what's behind me.

I made a start with the brake cooling, and got the fog lights out, and the inner panel to have a look at what is possible:

The pictures are a little crappy, because it was very sunny.

With the wheel on full lock, there is almost no room at all. At first I wanted a closed system to the back of the brakes, but now I see that it is not possible.

I also weight the horn and foglights, and the first weight savings have been made. I will also remove the carbon canister on the other side.

The car is now officially 1,873 kg's lighter.

This morning I made a start on stripping the car, with this as a result:

Total weight I got out of the car, is a whopping, 67 kg's, and 47 grams, which brings the total weight saving to: 68,92 kg's! :up: Very please with that already. :stig:

It was nice to see that the spare wheel was also an OZ F1, instead of the normal steel ones:

The top rubbers of the suspension look quite new, which indicates that the suspension must be new as well, which is also nice.

 

[scullyg40]

I made some progress today. I had a thought on how I could make some effective cooling, without a closed system. I don't really like the deflector plates, because they stand 90 degrees in the direction of the airflow, and I wanted something that directed the air a little bit more.

To get the maximum amount of air into the wheel well, I came up with this:

A 125 mm ID PVC ventilation pipe. I think it looks pretty agressive with the scoop sticking out. The idea is that the high pressure in front of the bumper will flow to the side of the car, and that the scoop will grap the air. The air in front of the bumper will be a higher pressure zone, than inside the wheel well, so the air will be quite happy to go into the wheel well. At least, thats the idea. :tongueout:

To direct the airflow, I used 2 90 degrees PVC elbows per side:

I will give it a lick of paint when I finish the other side.

I also took of the carbon canister today, and the Xenon headlight wires. Put them on the scale ofcourse:

Another 1,668 kg weight that's gone from the car, making total weigh saving a 70,6 kg's.

I blocked of the opening at the engine with a cap I had luying around with some silicon.

I still have to fit the resistor, and fit a filter to the retun line, so that the gastank can vent.

This was my first Clio, I liked the car a lot, but my wife didn't, and she had to drive it most of the time, so that's why we sold it.

 

[scullyg40]

Finished the brake ducts:

Looks quite effective to me, but only time will tell I suppose.

Didn't get a chance to weigh all the added weight properly, but the tube with what's left of the fog light surrounding is around 300 gram's each, and the PVC elbows are around 200 gram's in total, so I added what I saved with removing the foglight's.

Also took of the number plates, since I took it of the road.

Total weight saved 70,3 kg's.

Also found a video of me driving my old Clio on the TT-track in Assen:

 

[scullyg40]

Today I made myself some headlight and taillight blanks out of the original lights.

Original weights:

New weights:

So I saved another 3,464 kg's.

I also took out the airco condensor and pipelines, which saved a total of 3,885 kg's
The vaporizer is still in place, I will take a look at that some other time. The compressor will be taken out together with the PAS eventually as well.

An issue I am having, is that the car is leaking oil. It looks like it is coming from the gasket between the engine and the crankshaft cover. Is this a common problem, or is it likely that it is coming from somewhere else?

At the back of the engine, there is oil all along the gasket, so it seems to me that this must be the issue right?

So I gave the new blanks a lick of paint, and I modified the bumper to improve airflow to the radiator, only to find out that when I put it back, I also need to modify the metal plate that's behind it if I want it to have some function. :astonished:

Got some weight out of the bumper as well.

And an agressive looking car, I like it.

Total weight saving: 78 kg's

 

[scullyg40]

I also did a little clean up in the corner while I had the room.

From this:

To this:

And I gave the engine cover logo a little sanding.

Came out really nice, because it was almost the same as the rest of the intake manifold.

Today I fitted the winch I bought a couple of days ago, for only 15 Euro. :kissingsmiling:

And I took out the headlining and the doorpanels.

Inside the doors there is still enough weight to be gained.

But I will leave it like that untill I get polycarbonate windows and when I will lighten the interior loom.
Next up is the carpet, and parts of the dashbord.

Total weight saved: 90,8 kg's

 

[DrR]

So confused by your weight measurement? How have you made a 1100kg car 3,885kg lighter?

 

[scullyg40]

So confused by your weight measurement? How have you made a 1100kg car 3,885kg lighter?

There is a comma, which means 3,885 kg's, as in 3885 grams. :smile:

 

[DrR]

I've used a "." For the last 32 years and so has everyone else lol?

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

So confused by your weight measurement? How have you made a 1100kg car 3,885kg lighter?

European style I assume..

We use 3.885kg (correctly ha) .. they would use 3,885kg.

Doesn't make sense to a Brit as we read that as nearly three tons !

 

[scullyg40]

Yeah, but you also drive on the wrong side of the road, you measure in stones and pounds instead of kg's, and you measure with inches and yards instead of metres, so it's not your fault really. :mask::smiley:

 

[JB21]

Been looking at the 130i recently, but a bit put off by the terrible reviews it gets with ride quality. Will a set of springs sort this or its it a full suspension job?

 

[DrR]

Yeah, but you also drive on the wrong side of the road, you measure in stones and pounds instead of kg's, and you measure with inches and yards instead of metres, so it's not your fault really. :mask::smiley:

lol I use kg and metres. Only old people use the others.

 

[scullyg40]

Been looking at the 130i recently, but a bit put off by the terrible reviews it gets with ride quality. Will a set of springs sort this or its it a full suspension job?

For me it's okay, but I only use it as a daily, and where I live, the roads are very good. I think you need to drive one, and make your own judgement. The most bad reviews I have read are from the UK, so I think that the roads over there have something to do with it. With the M-sport suspension, the rear is quite hard.

lol I use kg and metres. Only old people use the others.

:up:

 

[alistairolsen]

For me it's okay, but I only use it as a daily, and where I live, the roads are very good. I think you need to drive one, and make your own judgement. The most bad reviews I have read are from the UK, so I think that the roads over there have something to do with it. With the M-sport suspension, the rear is quite hard.



:up:

I've been watching this thread for a while, keep up the good work!
In terms of weight saving, I assume you have found the block beneath the RHS engine mount?
For the inventors of S.I. units, the Europeans really dont seem to get that "." is a decimal point, i.e. 3.885kg is 3885g, while "," is merely a divider, with no effect on meaning, to make things easier to read, 3,885kg and 3885kg are the same thing.
The UK is a very odd place, I get VERY annoyed with work from the US in lbs and feet (which they blame us for and call "English units") and yet simultaneously get annoyed with distances in KM.
On the Msport suspension, the reviews stem (IMHO) from a combination of crap British roads, runflat tyres and overdamping. Alpina on the E90 3 series used the stock Msport springs, with SE spec dampers and non-RFT and everyone says the ride is great. Eibach designed their own lowering springs for the SE and they are identical in spec to the Msport springs. Given that OEM BMW dampers are shockingly bad and last about 60k, I'd budget for new dampers and some non RFT and crack on. There is a significat difference in ride harshness between my Mrs 1 series and my 3 series, the only real difference being runflats.

 

[New2RS]

Impressive weight loss mate.
Get sum light weight buckets in with your poly windows and you should break 100kg.:up:

 

[scullyg40]

I've been watching this thread for a while, keep up the good work!
In terms of weight saving, I assume you have found the block beneath the RHS engine mount?
For the inventors of S.I. units, the Europeans really dont seem to get that "." is a decimal point, i.e. 3.885kg is 3885g, while "," is merely a divider, with no effect on meaning, to make things easier to read, 3,885kg and 3885kg are the same thing.
The UK is a very odd place, I get VERY annoyed with work from the US in lbs and feet (which they blame us for and call "English units") and yet simultaneously get annoyed with distances in KM.
On the Msport suspension, the reviews stem (IMHO) from a combination of crap British roads, runflat tyres and overdamping. Alpina on the E90 3 series used the stock Msport springs, with SE spec dampers and non-RFT and everyone says the ride is great. Eibach designed their own lowering springs for the SE and they are identical in spec to the Msport springs. Given that OEM BMW dampers are shockingly bad and last about 60k, I'd budget for new dampers and some non RFT and crack on. There is a significat difference in ride harshness between my Mrs 1 series and my 3 series, the only real difference being runflats.

Thanks, and I new about the metal lump under the engine mount, just haven't got to it yet. Any other pointers are more than welcome offcourse.

Impressive weight loss mate.
Get sum light weight buckets in with your poly windows and you should break 100kg.:up:

I have a set a Sparco seats waiting on my parents attic, but I think I will mount them simultaniously with the cage. Without the cage I do not see a proper way of mounting the harness.
With regards to the 100 kg, I think I will break it with the rest of the interior, the metal lump and the AC vaporizer. When the cage will go in, there will be a lot of weight added though.

 

[New2RS]

Thanks, and I new about the metal lump under the engine mount, just haven't got to it yet. Any other pointers are more than welcome offcourse.



I have a set a Sparco seats waiting on my parents attic, but I think I will mount them simultaniously with the cage. Without the cage I do not see a proper way of mounting the harness.
With regards to the 100 kg, I think I will break it with the rest of the interior, the metal lump and the AC vaporizer. When the cage will go in, there will be a lot of weight added though.

This is true. Keep the updates coming.

 

[scullyg40]

Tonight in the gym I got thinking, how hard could it be to remove the metal lump at the engine mount. I got the itch, and got at it when I got back from my workout. Turned out is was only 20 minutes from start to finish. :smile:

Here's how I did it:

First I put two jacks under neath the engine.

Then I undid the 7 bolts, and the engine mount was loose.

Took the peace of metal out, and straight to the scale.

Then put the engine mount back in offcourse.

Looking a lot lighter in that area. :tongueclosed:

Total weight saving so far: 92,4 kg's.

 

[scullyg40]

Today I cracked on with removing the vaporizer unit. This wasn't as easy as the metal lump under the engine mount. I literally was luying upside down inside the car to remove two bolts and I had to unbolt the upper inlet manifold. I used part of the AC delete kit guide from Pure Motorsport, which helped out a lot.

The windshield wipers had some copper grease underneath, which told me that they had been of before, and it shouldn't be much of a problem, which it wasn't.

After that, I took out 157 grams of paperwork, every little bit helps. :smile:

And I found a nice tool in the dashbord, which is now in the BMW, could always come in handy.

The engine hoist bracket had to come off as well. I won't be fitting it back, so it counts as a weight loss to me. :tongueout:

This was how the engine bay looked like right after removing everything.

And this is what came out.

Total weight saved: 100,2 kg's, so I broke the 100 kg barrier, which is quite cool, and I am not even done yet. :stig:

 

[New2RS]

Today I cracked on with removing the vaporizer unit. This wasn't as easy as the metal lump under the engine mount. I literally was luying upside down inside the car to remove two bolts and I had to unbolt the upper inlet manifold. I used part of the AC delete kit guide from Pure Motorsport, which helped out a lot.

The windshield wipers had some copper grease underneath, which told me that they had been of before, and it shouldn't be much of a problem, which it wasn't.

After that, I took out 157 grams of paperwork, every little bit helps. :smile:

And I found a nice tool in the dashbord, which is now in the BMW, could always come in handy.

The engine hoist bracket had to come off as well. I won't be fitting it back, so it counts as a weight loss to me. :tongueout:

This was how the engine bay looked like right after removing everything.

And this is what came out.

Total weight saved: 100,2 kg's, so I broke the 100 kg barrier, which is quite cool, and I am not even done yet. :stig:

Well done with the 100 mate.

 

[alistairolsen]

100kg with factory seats and glass is good going. Got to be another 50 to come there if you fit the seats and windows right

 

[scullyg40]

I will get to that eventually, but not on short notice. I will probably do the seats together with the cage, and I will also take out obsolete brackets at that time, so I only have to paint the interior once. For the short term, the carpet can still go out, all the tar can still be removed, parts of the dash, like the radio and so on and probably some other things, interior loom maby, but I will have to look into that first.

 

[scullyg40]

I bought an AX wiper the other day, but I don't really see how to mount it yet. Looks like it is going to be custom all the way, so I guess that will be put on hold for a while, untill I have figured out how to do it properly.
I did find out that the Clio motor fits on the AX bracket, and that the Clio motor is only 33 grams heavier, so no point in using the AX motor, and resoldering wires etc. The brackets have 577 grams inbetween them. Is it a big enough weight difference for me to do this modification? I don't know yet, time will tell.

I did empty out the rear hatch, and did my first loom lightening. The only electrical thing left in the boot lid/rear of the car is the 3rd breaking light.

All this junk came out.

Total weight saving so far: 102,7 kg's.

Also, can anyone tell me if the color code of the paint is on this sticker, or tell me the color code anyway? I think the color is called Brilliant Silber.

 

[scullyg40]

Also, can anyone tell me if the color code of the paint is on this sticker, or tell me the color code anyway? I think the color is called Brilliant Silber.

Found it already, the color it Titanium Silver, and the color code is MV647.

 

[scullyg40]

So this morning I took out the seats and got a little richer.

Then I took out the carpet etc, and got even richer.

This is heading in the right direction. :tongueout:

After some more stripping, the interior looked like this.

And the pile of crap next to the car looked like this.

Total weight I took out was massive, a whopping 12,6 kg's. The carpet is very heavy, the front peace alone weighs almost 5 kg's. Very happy with this, didn't expect it. I also got a chance to put the passenger chair at the scale, and it came in at 19,x kg's.

Total weight saving today: 115,3 kg's.

Also, who can tell me what this control unit is for, right in front of the gear shifter.

 

[Djw John]

That's the obd port above the airbag ecu there.
I've moved the obd to where the radio was and got rid of the airbag ecu altogether. There's a wire to cut to switch off the light too, I'll see if I can find the diagram again.

 

[scullyg40]

That would be very much appreciated. Any other diagrams are also more than welcome.

 

[scullyg40]

Today I made a start on removing all the tar. There is a lot to be gained here. The big peace on the roof alone weigh's in at 2,8 kg's.

Total weight saving untill now: 120,8 kg's. This keeps getting better and better. With the tar I'm a little bit past halfway, but the heat is quite unbearable here today, that combined with the heat of the paint stripping gun, made me decide to quit a little bit early today.

I also received my box of grommets.

So I could do this.

They will come in handy in lots of other places I'm sure.

And I also received my hood pins for the engine hood, and bootlid, and my new towing straps. The whole package was cheaper than 1 set of Aerocatch hood pins.

With this I can further lighten the bootlid and engine hood.

 

[scullyg40]

Today I removed all the tar, bar the small piece in the C-pillar that is not reachable. I managed to do the drivers side, which has an extra hole to get to the tar, and decided that it would be virtually impossible to get to the other piece. The small piece on the drivers side was only around 200 grams anyway.

Total profit 9kg's

Then I cracked on with the dashboard. At the end of the day, it looked like this.

I bypassed the heater matrix like this.

Total weight saved: 149,4 kg's :stig:

Next job is to lighten the interior loom down as far as I am comfortable with, than I will lighten the boot lid and engine hood.

 

[scullyg40]

Allright, so I attacked the interior loom, and got a little bit carried away with it. At some point I forgot to check if the engine wil start after every cut, and you know it buy know, at some point the immobiliser light wouldn't stop flashing. I should have stopped at this point, but I figured, what else could go wrong. Well, now it doesn't do anything anymore . I feel really stupid, and that's probably because I am. 🙈

First the positive.
Managed to get 5,1 kg of wires etc out of the car.

Along with some other small pieces, I managed to get the car 156,4 kg's lighter, which is more than I thought was possible.

Now, on to the problem. At first the immobiliser light wouldn't stop flashing. This didn't get me to scared, as I thought, okay, I'll just get the immobiliser software deleted from the ECU, and that's it. Didn't plan to spend money on removing the interior loom, but it's not the end of the world.
I should have stopped here, but I didn't, and now it is like in this video.



When I had the immobiliser light flashing, I could here the fuel pump, and the starter motor. Now when I turn the ignition, lights as shown in the video will come on, when I try to start the engine, nothing happens. Anybody has any idea how I can fix this?
As a first step, I contacted Chris at EFI-parts, to have the immobiliser removed, and as a smal step forward I asked if he could remap the ECU as well, while it is there. So, that should solve the immobiliser problem, but it will not solve the problem I am having right now. If anybody can give me a pointer in the right direction, that will be appreciated very much.

So, I will be going on holiday within the next two weeks, and the 30th of August is the first trackday at Assen that I would like to participate in, I made myself a list of things that need to be done. Lightening the interior loom, and getting myself in this mess, wasn't part of that. :kissingsmiling:

Here's what I still need to do/buy:

-Buy two more straps, to strap the car on the trailer, as I only have a pair for the front wheels
-Change the brake fluid
-FIX THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM!!!
-Tidy up the interior loom
-Make a bracket for the instrument panel
-Change the sump gasket
-Change the engine oil
-Clean up the interior
-Put in the seats
-Mount the hood pins for the boot lid
-Mount the towing straps front and back

Things I will do when I have some spare time:

-Mount back the wipers, depending on the weather
-Lighten the bonnet and boot lid
-Lighten the doors, and mount polycarbonate windows

 

[scullyg40]

I had some time today, so I got to fit the hood pins on the bootlid, and the tow strap on the rear. I can take that ones off the list. :smile:

 

[20vKarlos]

I've recently decluttered my wiring, but you've gone a step further, by the looks of things...

The most important question is... Are all of your earths still in the wiring? If not that's most likely your problem.

What loom/wires have you left in the car?
I left in quite a lot, but that's due to me not removing my heater just yet.

Have you removed all the rear end wiring apart from the fuel pump and rear lights? There are a million things it could be, but if you want the car to run and have simple wiring, you'll probably need to invest in a different management setup :up:

 

[scullyg40]

I've removed all of the rear end wiring apart from the fuel and 3rd brake light. I've kept de earths of them as well ofcourse. Then I basically worked my way forward, taking out the airbag unit and cables, most of what's behind the dash, emptying the doors etc.
I also think it's an earth problem, just can't get my head around how and where.
I have sent my ECU to EFI-parts to have the immobiliser removed, and get a remap while it is there. It will not get my car running again, but it will make my problem a lot easier.
Ideally I would like to have a programmable management system with throttle bodies, but I can't justify the cost for that little horsepower improvement.
I am now trying to find some wiring diagrams. I have some of a 2001 onward, but they are different, so not of any real use. If I can't find any, I will have to start from scratch and make my own I guess.

 

[scullyg40]

This morning I cleaned the interior. It was really dirty, out came a lot of brown/black buckets of water. And I put the seats back in. Now that the carpets out, it became really visiblehow high the standard seats are.

I still have the electrical problem. I sent the ECU to Chris at EFI parts, to have the immobiliser removed, and while it's there, have a remap put on it. He stated that normally they only do remaps on the dyno, but since I live in the Netherlands, that's not really an option, so I asked for a basic performance remap. I will have a raised rev limiter, improved warm up procedure, improved torque in the lower rev range, and a little more peak horsepower.

To fix the problem, I started with making my own electrical wiring diagram.

 

[scullyg40]

I got the front tow strap fitted. It was more of a project than I wanted to, but it needed to be done. If I just bolted it on to the existing thread, the strap would come out to low, and the horizantol piece of the bumper would be in the way. So I had to make some modifications.

First I cut of part of the mount/thread.

Then I made a plate for the bottom.

Welded a bolt on.

Tagged in place.

And fully welded.

Put a lick of paint on it, and put the tow strap on.

And the finished result.

My welder, a Cebora 160. I'm still a novice at welding, but I love doing it, and I can't wait to weld the cage in.

 

[scullyg40]

Cleaning up the list.

-Buy two more straps, to strap the car on the trailer, as I only have a pair for the front wheels
-Change the brake fluid
-FIX THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM!!!
-Tidy up the interior loom
-Make a bracket for the instrument panel
-Change the sump gasket
-Change the engine oil
-Clean up the interior DONE :up:
-Put in the seats DONE :up:
-Mount the hood pins for the boot lid DONE :up:
-Mount the towing straps front and back DONE :up:

Things I will do when I have some spare time:

-Mount back the wipers, depending on the weather
-Lighten the bonnet and boot lid
-Lighten the doors, and mount polycarbonate windows[/QUOTE]

 

[Greeny.]

Love this, good work

 

[scullyg40]

Thanks. :up:

 

[scullyg40]

Not an update on the Clio this time, but I just got back from vacation, so I thought I would post some pictures of the BMW in some nice places. It covered somewhere around 4000 km's in 2,5 weeks, and it's done a great job.

The BMW really comes in it's place on the twisty roads of the Pyrenees that we visited. It can go a lot faster on those roads than I am comfortable with, and a LOT faster than my wife is comfortable with. :tonguewink: Only annoying thing is that when you think you are pushing it (within reason), some french guy in a normal car is behind you, waiting to get past. :rage:

This is on our first campsite, just installed, and opening my first beer.

On our way to Pont d'Espagne

In Piau-Engaly

Somewhere down there is our car, we did a 6 hour hike in the National Park, which was quite beautiful.

On the Col d'Aspin, on our way to the Col de Tourmalin. In the Pyrenees, there is cattle running loose everywhere.

In the National Park Ordesa in Spain.

On the way back, just outside the Bielsa tunnel on the French side.

And on the way back, with the owner enjoying a beer, and preparing a meal. :up:

All and all, we had a really good time. Now it is time for the Clio again. I received back my ECU from EFI-parts who did the immobiliser delete, and a basic remap, and I am waiting for a new interior loom from Germany to get the car back up and running. Which I sincerely hope it will, otherwise I am fucked.

 

[scullyg40]

I made an order at the Renault dealer.

And because to change the sump gasket, I need to drain the oil, which needs to be replaced with new oil, along with the filter, the order got a little bigger than just the sump gasket. Good news was, that the oil was not expensive at the dealer. Total price was 140 Euro's for 5 litres of engine oil, sump gasket, oil filter, and sump plug ring. The parts manager was also very nice. He ordered 6 litres, but as presumably somebody from the workshop borrowed a litre, he only had 5 for me. He offered to come back with an empty bottle after I have changed the oil, and he will refill it for free from the big cans in the workshop.

Then this afternoon, I made a very hightech bracket for the instrumentpanel. This will do for now.

This means, I can clean up my list a bit more.

-Buy two more straps, to strap the car on the trailer, as I only have a pair for the front wheels
-Change the brake fluid
-FIX THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM!!!
-Tidy up the interior loom
-Make a bracket for the instrument panel DONE :up:
-Change the sump gasket
-Change the engine oil
-Clean up the interior DONE :up:
-Put in the seats DONE :up:
-Mount the hood pins for the boot lid DONE :up:
-Mount the towing straps front and back DONE :up:

Things I will do when I have some spare time:

-Mount back the wipers, depending on the weather
-Lighten the bonnet and boot lid
-Lighten the doors, and mount polycarbonate windows

My new interior loom is on it's way, which should help me with the electrical issue.