Pulling engine/gearbox forward on mounts.

[mikeh]

I'm getting some vibration from what I think is the exhaust hitting the subframe.

I've moved the engine mount as far forward as it will go, but it is still there.

I'm trying to work out how the upper gearbox mount works and if there is any adjustment on that, but failing miserably.

So my question is, is it possible to move the engine on the upper gearbox mount, and if so, how?

Gut feel is the little bolts, but they look too wimpy to be load baring?

 

[Joe R26]

Don't think you can adjust the gearbox side. The two bolts on the sides are what holds it in place.

It's definately hitting the sub frame?

Have you checked the stud isn't loose on the gearbox side. Not the top bit, there's a nut underneath that can come undone. Bit tricky to get to.

 

[mikeh]

About 2 minutes after this post, I had a proper look and figured out that the top of the mount sits on top of the battery tray, so those little 13mm nuts just hold it from moving forwards and backwards.

Undone, sharp pull forwards and done up again - sorted.

I'll report back as to whether it's solve my issue.

Which nut/stud are you referring to?

 

[Joe R26]

You have the central stud going through the gearbox mount with an 18mm nut on top then you have the two 13 mm nuts either side. Well at the other end of the stud that the 18mm is on there is a nut underneath on the other end of the stud. Hard to explain. I could just about see it from underneath with the under tray off. Apparently it can come loose however mine was ok.

 

[Budgie]

You can also loosen the 4x 13mm bolts that hold the upper gearbox mount to the body and adjust from there. They all have a certain amount of adjustment.

 

[mikeh]

I'm not sure if it was pulling the engine forward, changing the crank sensor or a mixture of both, but the previously observed knocking when pulling off enthusiastically and vibration at high revs has gone completely.

I'm one step closer to having NO problems again.

 

[Budgie]

Vibration/knocking at high revs and when backing off was almost certainly the manifold on the subframe if it's been sorted by moving the engine forward.

Crank sensor imo is black or white. It either works or it doesn't.

 

[mikeh]

Well, the crank sensor was a long shot really. I had issues where the car wouldn't start the first turn of the key, but always immediately on the second turn - there seems to be loads of threads on here pointing toward the crank sensor. Given the vibration sounded a bit like a mis-fire, I had thoughts that it could be at least partly to blame.

I'm also led to believe that the issue isn't the sensor it's self, but the plug which is flawed and lets water in - hence the updated loom and crank sensor.