Renault Clip - Dummies guide

[Tarvitz]

Hi All,

Happy Christmas Eve to you all

I have an official Renault Clip unit and have managed to install and license the software but does anyone know of a decent guide/video that goes through what you can do with it and how?

I've searched the forum and most threads related are to do with installing the software not actually using it, could be a bit of a gap here.

Thanks

 

[Steven103]

Same as any other dealer level diagnostic SW really.

* view entire (?) network to see which electrical modules are present (“multiplex test”) in said vehicle
* View & clear codes, both Renault-specific & generic OBD protocol
* Look at live values from sensors/switches
* Actuate solenoids, relays, motors etc for testing
* Typical service functions e.g. bleed brakes, set steering angle sensor
* Specify some options/equipment as being present/not present e.g. airbags

It calls the box/cable a “sensor”, so the first thing you do is select the “sensor” that you want to use. Preferably click auto detect VIN to automatically fill in vehicle details. Pretend you’re in a dealer and enter anything in the Repair Order (RO) box. Multiplex test. Pick which electrical module you want to investigate/use etc.

My favourite bit is that the thing that looks like a “next” arrow > means go back. The symbol that looks like a fish swimming down means next (step or page). The carriage return button means “start”.

If it’s an eBay one you’ll be lucky if it doesn’t crash/disconnect 50 billion times per job.

 

[Tarvitz]

Same as any other dealer level diagnostic SW really.

* view entire (?) network to see which electrical modules are present (“multiplex test”) in said vehicle
* View & clear codes, both Renault-specific & generic OBD protocol
* Look at live values from sensors/switches
* Actuate solenoids, relays, motors etc for testing
* Typical service functions e.g. bleed brakes, set steering angle sensor
* Specify some options/equipment as being present/not present e.g. airbags

It calls the box/cable a “sensor”, so the first thing you do is select the “sensor” that you want to use. Preferably click auto detect VIN to automatically fill in vehicle details. Pretend you’re in a dealer and enter anything in the Repair Order (RO) box. Multiplex test. Pick which electrical module you want to investigate/use etc.

My favourite bit is that the thing that looks like a “next” arrow > means go back. The symbol that looks like a fish swimming down means next (step or page). The carriage return button means “start”.

If it’s an eBay one you’ll be lucky if it doesn’t crash/disconnect 50 billion times per job.

Thanks for the info that's helpful. Mine is an official one I believe so I'm.hopong it does ok.

Any advice on what I point it at for the tdc sensor or ignition issues? Or is there an ignition category?

 

[Steven103]

I’m sure I’ll get the names of the menus wrong as it’s presumably all translated from French so sounds a bit odd anyway, but after the “computer test” then “multiplex network” test I’d be going into “petrol injection”. Do a “fault test” to see any DTCs. A red circle is a fault currently occurring, flashing orange is a stored DTC IIRC. I guess with the engine running I’d expect to be able to read RPM under a menu called “list of parameters”. Maybe there’s a “I’m at TDC” flag under “list of statuses” but I highly doubt it. If you think about how a Hall effect sensor works on a 100 tooth wheel (made up for easy numbers) TDC is identified by detecting one “long” pulse amongst 99 short pulses per revolution. But if we’re idling at 1000rpm (16rps) and you have 100 teeth on your flywheel then the long pulse is 0.0006 seconds which is frankly absurd anyway so yeah... you’re never going to see something that fast without an oscilloscope.

I don’t mean to teach you to suck eggs but like any diagnostic software Clip is just a tool to point you in the right direction. It will tell you exactly what is happening (e.g. short to ground for a specific sensor/motor/module etc) but it obviously can’t be expected to tell you why (e.g. broken wiring loom vs internal fault on a sensor).

I don’t know if you’ve just guessed TDC sensor or already narrowed it down, but engine start can also be prevented by the immobiliser, in which case you’d find clues in “immobiliser” not “petrol injection”.

When you enter the VIN there are a load of interesting sounding buttons on the left like “physical tests” and “oscilloscope” but the eBay clip tool that I’m using seems to be missing the corresponding required hardware. I’m sure someone who worked in a main dealer 20 years ago will know more There’s a load of links to documentation too which might be helpful if your installation includes it?

 

[Tarvitz]

I’m sure I’ll get the names of the menus wrong as it’s presumably all translated from French so sounds a bit odd anyway, but after the “computer test” then “multiplex network” test I’d be going into “petrol injection”. Do a “fault test” to see any DTCs. A red circle is a fault currently occurring, flashing orange is a stored DTC IIRC. I guess with the engine running I’d expect to be able to read RPM under a menu called “list of parameters”. Maybe there’s a “I’m at TDC” flag under “list of statuses” but I highly doubt it. If you think about how a Hall effect sensor works on a 100 tooth wheel (made up for easy numbers) TDC is identified by detecting one “long” pulse amongst 99 short pulses per revolution. But if we’re idling at 1000rpm (16rps) and you have 100 teeth on your flywheel then the long pulse is 0.0006 seconds which is frankly absurd anyway so yeah... you’re never going to see something that fast without an oscilloscope.

I don’t mean to teach you to suck eggs but like any diagnostic software Clip is just a tool to point you in the right direction. It will tell you exactly what is happening (e.g. short to ground for a specific sensor/motor/module etc) but it obviously can’t be expected to tell you why (e.g. broken wiring loom vs internal fault on a sensor).

I don’t know if you’ve just guessed TDC sensor or already narrowed it down, but engine start can also be prevented by the immobiliser, in which case you’d find clues in “immobiliser” not “petrol injection”.

When you enter the VIN there are a load of interesting sounding buttons on the left like “physical tests” and “oscilloscope” but the eBay clip tool that I’m using seems to be missing the corresponding required hardware. I’m sure someone who worked in a main dealer 20 years ago will know more There’s a load of links to documentation too which might be helpful if your installation includes it?

Thanks for this mate really helpful

 

[Tarvitz]

I’m sure I’ll get the names of the menus wrong as it’s presumably all translated from French so sounds a bit odd anyway, but after the “computer test” then “multiplex network” test I’d be going into “petrol injection”. Do a “fault test” to see any DTCs. A red circle is a fault currently occurring, flashing orange is a stored DTC IIRC. I guess with the engine running I’d expect to be able to read RPM under a menu called “list of parameters”. Maybe there’s a “I’m at TDC” flag under “list of statuses” but I highly doubt it. If you think about how a Hall effect sensor works on a 100 tooth wheel (made up for easy numbers) TDC is identified by detecting one “long” pulse amongst 99 short pulses per revolution. But if we’re idling at 1000rpm (16rps) and you have 100 teeth on your flywheel then the long pulse is 0.0006 seconds which is frankly absurd anyway so yeah... you’re never going to see something that fast without an oscilloscope.

I don’t mean to teach you to suck eggs but like any diagnostic software Clip is just a tool to point you in the right direction. It will tell you exactly what is happening (e.g. short to ground for a specific sensor/motor/module etc) but it obviously can’t be expected to tell you why (e.g. broken wiring loom vs internal fault on a sensor).

I don’t know if you’ve just guessed TDC sensor or already narrowed it down, but engine start can also be prevented by the immobiliser, in which case you’d find clues in “immobiliser” not “petrol injection”.

When you enter the VIN there are a load of interesting sounding buttons on the left like “physical tests” and “oscilloscope” but the eBay clip tool that I’m using seems to be missing the corresponding required hardware. I’m sure someone who worked in a main dealer 20 years ago will know more There’s a load of links to documentation too which might be helpful if your installation includes it?

By the way I have done a lot of process of elimination to get down to the TDC but put it like this, the car started ok but idle was very poor and stalled when changing gears slowing down then I removed the throttle body and TDC and gave em a good clean and now the car turns over but doesn't start.

If you interested I got the clip to work and these errors were showing for ignition and immobiliser respectively so any help diagnosing would be great. Done a bit of a search and either suggests tdc or the ecu. I'm hoping its tdc based on the above.

 

[Tarvitz]

I’m sure I’ll get the names of the menus wrong as it’s presumably all translated from French so sounds a bit odd anyway, but after the “computer test” then “multiplex network” test I’d be going into “petrol injection”. Do a “fault test” to see any DTCs. A red circle is a fault currently occurring, flashing orange is a stored DTC IIRC. I guess with the engine running I’d expect to be able to read RPM under a menu called “list of parameters”. Maybe there’s a “I’m at TDC” flag under “list of statuses” but I highly doubt it. If you think about how a Hall effect sensor works on a 100 tooth wheel (made up for easy numbers) TDC is identified by detecting one “long” pulse amongst 99 short pulses per revolution. But if we’re idling at 1000rpm (16rps) and you have 100 teeth on your flywheel then the long pulse is 0.0006 seconds which is frankly absurd anyway so yeah... you’re never going to see something that fast without an oscilloscope.

I don’t mean to teach you to suck eggs but like any diagnostic software Clip is just a tool to point you in the right direction. It will tell you exactly what is happening (e.g. short to ground for a specific sensor/motor/module etc) but it obviously can’t be expected to tell you why (e.g. broken wiring loom vs internal fault on a sensor).

I don’t know if you’ve just guessed TDC sensor or already narrowed it down, but engine start can also be prevented by the immobiliser, in which case you’d find clues in “immobiliser” not “petrol injection”.

When you enter the VIN there are a load of interesting sounding buttons on the left like “physical tests” and “oscilloscope” but the eBay clip tool that I’m using seems to be missing the corresponding required hardware. I’m sure someone who worked in a main dealer 20 years ago will know more There’s a load of links to documentation too which might be helpful if your installation includes it?

Hi mate, hope you had a good holiday break!

So as an update my clip software license expired but managed to rectify that thankfully and it's all working again till 2023 .

I have fixed the issue and my car now starts (before it wouldn't start at all) it was a cut in the connectors wire to my tdc sensor that was stopping it starting, however I'm.still having the bad idle issue and when I checked on clip today the same code issue was showing as red, see image.

Above you said this was current error which suggest I haven't solved something, now suspecting the throttle body maybe?

I just want to learn more about clip, I can navigate it well now and I tried looking at live data whilst the engine was running which worked too.

So I'm asking what I do about The traffic lights in images below, ie when's it safe to clear them and whats it trying to tell me?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[JamesBryan]

Orange is stored old codes and red is current fault.

 

[Tarvitz]

Orange is stored old codes and red is current fault.

so that would mean even though i had an issue with my tdc sensor which is now fixed there is still something wrong? And timing issues dont show on clip do they?

So the saga with my idle issue continues.

 

[JamesBryan]

so that would mean even though i had an issue with my tdc sensor which is now fixed there is still something wrong? And timing issues dont show on clip do they?

So the saga with my idle issue continues.

Incorrect timing won't show a fault sadly.

No cam sensor on these.

 

[Luke_Exc]

Anyone else's clip license expire on NYE?

 

[barnesautos]

Firstly , what model of Clio and what year

That fault code points to the heater element in the oxygen sensor downstream of Cat .

Two tests you can do

1 check for presents of battery voltage at the loom plug when you turn the ignition on .

2 Carry out a resistance test of the heater circuit on the sensor itself .
That will confirm it’s ok or not .....

 

[Steven103]

I didn't think having the timing checked was that expensive, £100 or so? Which IMO would be money well spent to conclusively rule out a big "unknown". It's the adjusting/correcting that costs a few hundred more (which again is money well spent if the timing is out).

I have no idea who the nearest specialist is to Norwich but I'm sure someone on here will know?


The problem with looking at MAP values at idle vs a known just-timed engine is that if the values aren't a million miles apart then you just start get into a massive rabbit hole of wondering if they're different due to different intake/exhaust/maps/RPMs or sensor/engine tolerances etc.

The other codes are nothing to do with idling. The downstream sensor isn't used for AFR, and in any case the fuelling will be in open loop for the first 10 or 20 minutes or whatever.

 

[Tarvitz]

Anyone else's clip license expire on NYE?

Yes mine did, you need a new license code and re-register it

 

[Tarvitz]

Firstly , what model of Clio and what year

That fault code points to the heater element in the oxygen sensor downstream of Cat .

Two tests you can do

1 check for presents of battery voltage at the loom plug when you turn the ignition on .

2 Carry out a resistance test of the heater circuit on the sensor itself .
That will confirm it’s ok or not .....

Clio 172, 2001.

Is that one of the lambas then? Would that mean the car idles badly when warm, by badly I mean stalls a lot especialy when approaching junctions in neutral, or sitting, trying to reverse etc

 

[Tarvitz]

I didn't think having the timing checked was that expensive, £100 or so? Which IMO would be money well spent to conclusively rule out a big "unknown". It's the adjusting/correcting that costs a few hundred more (which again is money well spent if the timing is out).

I have no idea who the nearest specialist is to Norwich but I'm sure someone on here will know?


The problem with looking at MAP values at idle vs a known just-timed engine is that if the values aren't a million miles apart then you just start get into a massive rabbit hole of wondering if they're different due to different intake/exhaust/maps/RPMs or sensor/engine tolerances etc.

The other codes are nothing to do with idling. The downstream sensor isn't used for AFR, and in any case the fuelling will be in open loop for the first 10 or 20 minutes or whatever.

So I am worried timing has been done incorrectly as I wasn't having this issue before i recently had the cam belt and dephaser changed, although it's hard to tell as I hadn't driven much because the car was off the road. I definitely had an issue with my TDC sensor as when I checked the loom the wire had been caught/cut by something.

 

[barnesautos]

Clio 172, 2001.

Is that one of the lambas then? Would that mean the car idles badly when warm, by badly I mean stalls a lot especialy when approaching junctions in neutral, or sitting, trying to reverse etc

I’m assuming it’s a late one Y reg as we all know the late ones had two lambda sensors as opposed to single lambda on the earlier ones .

As Steven has mentioned , downstream doesn’t have any affect on the running of the engine , it’s purely there to make sure the emissions are in check that’s all.

Your stalling issue could be a number of things .

Check the RCO idling figures , it may well be the idle valve needs a good clean as well as the throttle housing .

Once that’s all done then you keep moving on

 

[Tarvitz]

I’m assuming it’s a late one Y reg as we all know the late ones had two lambda sensors as opposed to single lambda on the earlier ones .

As Steven has mentioned , downstream doesn’t have any affect on the running of the engine , it’s purely there to make sure the emissions are in check that’s all.

Your stalling issue could be a number of things .

Check the RCO idling figures , it may well be the idle valve needs a good clean as well as the throttle housing .

Once that’s all done then you keep moving on

Cheers for the reply mate.

So so far I have had the throttle body off and cleaned it all inside and out, you could eat your dinner our of that now but made no difference. By the way mine is a 51 plate 172 ph2.

As I understand the idle control valve is inside the TB isn't it? I would like to reset mine but can't seem to find instructions on how to do it.

Again thanks for you help trying to solve this, any info is greatly appreciated.

 

[Brigsy]

Manifold pressure says 580mbar at 1200rpm cold idle. Id check it when hot but should be around 400mbar.

Its only started since the belt has been changed, stop messing about and get the timing checked.

 

[Tarvitz]

How can anyone check the timing without locking the cams?

 

[Brigsy]

Need to lock the crank then check the cams with the horse shoe, and then if not careful can lock the crank in the balance hole if not careful.

 

[plees]

Yes mine did, you need a new license code and re-register it

Any pointers to how? Where to get a new code from. Cheefs

 

[Tarvitz]

Any pointers to how? Where to get a new code from. Cheefs

Depends how you installed your software, usually they come.with key generators but unfortunately mine didn't.

Best thing I can recommend is to contact the person who you got the software off and see if they have one or csn help you thats what I did.

 

[barnesautos]

I have version 171 and mine ran out as well.

Can you guys confirm that when yours ran out on end of 2020 , what version were you running please .

I was running version 170 , and I see the last available download was 183.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tarvitz]

I have version 171 and mine ran out as well.

Can you guys confirm that when yours ran out on end of 2020 , what version were you running please .

I was running version 170 , and I see the last available download was 183.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thinking is 170

 

[Brigsy]

I have version 171 and mine ran out as well.

Can you guys confirm that when yours ran out on end of 2020 , what version were you running please .

I was running version 170 , and I see the last available download was 183.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just renewed my licence today

Renault Clip Expiry issue

Anyone with clip clone even the gold board, my software has expired on 31/12/20. Anyone found a way around this!? Please help me!

cliosport.net