Running problem (with OMEX)

[MarkM]

Personally I prefer to map the whole engine specifically. this way you have full control over getting an optimisation of power and economy.

what's your lambda target map like? see if you can get a screen dump of it up on here...

To save a screen dump its all '1.00'. Same across the whole map.

 

[philthy]

did you get this sorted mate? what was it in the end?

 

[MarkM]

did you get this sorted mate? what was it in the end?

No. The misfire has quickly got worse.

Changed

TDC sensor
coil pack
leads

This was how it looked yesterday

Took the spark plugs out. They are all black so a misfire on all cylinders.

I visually checked the wiring but couldnt see anything obvious.

I spoke to Nick at Hillpower. He says he will have a look at it on Saturday.

 

[philthy]

try moving the omex loom to see if it causes it, its the same problem I had with mine by the sound of things.

 

[16v_jon]

They are the wrong plugs really to use on the F4R you need the NGK 'r' series

 

[MarkM]

try moving the omex loom to see if it causes it, its the same problem I had with mine by the sound of things.

Tried that.

I read your thread again and it sounds similar to what you have. Hopefully Hillpower can find it but I fear a big bill just to diagnose a loose connection somewhere.

They are the wrong plugs really to use on the F4R you need the NGK 'r' series

Interesting. These are the ones fitted by GDI durging the original engine conversion. I will have a word with Nick on Saturday and see if he can recommend me some.

 

[jph172]

Im running with omex as well&as far as even tryin to understand it i dont even bother. I leave it all to Andy. He knows his stuff&if u can make the trip go see him. I drove up there from Essex yesterday as i was havin a few small issues. He plugged it straight into a laptop&now its feels much better.
Goin on the issue with the lambas, ive been experiencing some kangerooing at high speeds/general flat out driving. The plugs were changed a few weeks ago but it feels worse since they were replaced! But one of the lambas was unplugged yesterday for a check&plugged back in&now for the time being it seems to have cleared up! strange

 

[MarkM]

Im running with omex as well&as far as even tryin to understand it i dont even bother. I leave it all to Andy. He knows his stuff&if u can make the trip go see him. I drove up there from Essex yesterday as i was havin a few small issues. He plugged it straight into a laptop&now its feels much better.
Goin on the issue with the lambas, ive been experiencing some kangerooing at high speeds/general flat out driving. The plugs were changed a few weeks ago but it feels worse since they were replaced! But one of the lambas was unplugged yesterday for a check&plugged back in&now for the time being it seems to have cleared up! strange

I wouldnt do any business with GDI again, but I wont go into that.

The OMEX and all the re-wiring that is involved is always going to add an extra uncertainty to any problems. I untaped the wiring into the original ECU and it hits home how much the original loom has been butchered to connect the OMEX.

There is no going back the way it has been done. The original wire is cut where it goes into the ECU and left, then a wire from the OMEX is soldered on. It doesnt fill you with confidence....

It is worrying that my four year old car may have a phantom wiring fault that may cost hundreds (or thousands) of pounds to find.

Other tuners dont want to touch a dodgy install aswell which they get lumbered with down the line.

Worse case scenario is a fresh install....

 

[Fred@BTM]

whats the gap on those plugs Mark, it may just be the picture, but it looks massive!

 

[mini-valver]

^^I was going to say that! Wet and dry the electrode and pin then bend the pin down to the correct gap using a feeler gauge, see what happens.....

 

[MarkM]

^^I was going to say that! Wet and dry the electrode and pin then bend the pin down to the correct gap using a feeler gauge, see what happens.....

whats the correct gap?

what are the best plugs to use?

 

[Fred@BTM]

1mm

NGK PFR6E-10 (the 10 mean they're preset to 1mm)

i prefer the super plat to the normal ones

 

[mini-valver]

I have'nt got the specs for the RS's to hand. Just go with whatever NGK reccomend. Never used any other brand but I'm sure whatever they specify will be fine. Super dooper platinum plugs make 0.f**k all difference so just use O.E ones.....

 

[MarkM]

Thanks!

The gaps werent set to 1mm thats for sure.

I dont think this is the problem, it is to intermittent to be the plugs. It can run fine in the morning on the way to work then run like an absolute dog on the way back. Although it is becoming more consistently bad.

 

[mini-valver]

Have you changed the leads? Could be breaking down...
Does'nt sound like a wiring fault TBH, it'd either work or not, if it was.

 

[MarkM]

Have you changed the leads? Could be breaking down...
Does'nt sound like a wiring fault TBH, it'd either work or not, if it was.

Leads changed.

What about a loose connection somewhere.

 

[mini-valver]

If it was a loose conection though it would be intermittant throughout you journey not just in the morning though as you describe....

Auto-electrics are the devil!

 

[MarkM]

If it was a loose conection though it would be intermittant throughout you journey not just in the morning though as you describe....

Auto-electrics are the devil!

Tell me about it!

I disconnected the OMEX and cleaned the contacts and generally had a dig around in the wiring over the weekend. After I connected it all back up it ran perfectly for 10 minutes then all of a sudden started missing again. I havent been able to replicate this again.

 

[mini-valver]

Might just be coincidence? Take the ECU indoors overnight in an airing cupborad and see if that helps? Could be damp as buggery....

 

[philthy]

sounds exactly the same as mine, is when it warms up? the ecu ignition drivers were discussed on mine also, I had it sent back to omex who checked and repaired mine, made f all difference tbh but least i know it wasnt that!

know anyone you could swap ecus with?

 

[stan*]

Yup damp is a definate issue. If the ignition drivers get damp, or any part of the circuitary shorts out, it will cause issues. As above, dry it out, then spray it LIGHTLY with WD40, then make sure its located in a dry location (not in a sealed box as condensation builds up. Maybe even put some silica gel in the box to remove moisture.

The plugs look sooty, could just be lots of cold-starts causing that.

What was the issue with the lambda sensor again?.,....

 

[MarkM]

I took the ECU out and had a look at the circuit board.

I will take some pictures later but it does have areas of corrosion on it.

I havent sorted the lambda yet but the gauge still appears to be working OK.

 

[stan*]

if it has areas of corrosion, then likely currents will be tracing across it...not good.

Where has the ecu been located on the car?

 

[MarkM]

if it has areas of corrosion, then likely currents will be tracing across it...not good.

Where has the ecu been located on the car?

In the engine bay above the gearbox.

 

[Anonymous]

I have been getting an intermittent fault which is gradually getting worse.

Car seems to start OK.

I have an AFR meter so I can see the AFR reading.

When its cold it misfires and runs very rich (9.8 - 9.9 on the AFR), this seems to clear up within a minute or so.

At idle the AFR should be 14.7 but it keeps jumping down to 12.9 (too rich) then creeps up to 14.7 then jumps down again to 12.9. It stalled for the first time on Saturday when on idle it just went very rich and stopped.

On a light throttle at low revs the AFR reading seems to move about alot between rich and lean(before the problem it was stable).

When you put your foot down it is OK.

I have changed leads and TDC sensor so far, possibly coil pack next?

Was thinking maybe the lambda probe which is a wide band one for the innovate kit. But it appears to be worse when its cold and not in closed loop control. Also the meter is reading OK with no errors.

Its times like this when I wish I could just take it to a local garage to get it sorted but with the OMEX it becomes much more difficult.

Anyone recommend a specialist in the Coventry area?

Unfortunate...

 

[stan*]

above the gearbox???

Doesnt sound well protected at all. It only takes al ittle bit of damp to start corrosion on delicate PCB's.

U could try cleaning it up with some solvent and a light abbrasive cloth..though I would be tempted to get it back to the supplier.

 

[rustybolt]

im not any sort of expert, but surely such an expensive ECU should be inside the car shouldnt it? What happens when its pouring down and rain is spraying up into the engine bay?

 

[stan*]

Where would you put standalone ECUs on your conversions?

I put them in the glovebox usually if its a track car, or if its more of a road car I fit them in the OE position in the scuttle area.

 

[Fred@BTM]

pop over to mine if you want Mark, i'm only in solihull

 

[Anonymous]

Where would you put standalone ECUs on your conversions?

I put them in the glovebox usually if its a track car, or if its more of a road car I fit them in the OE position in the scuttle area.

Shirley they still get damp in the OE area do they not?:S

 

[TheJesus]

im not any sort of expert, but surely such an expensive ECU should be inside the car shouldnt it? What happens when its pouring down and rain is spraying up into the engine bay?

nowt, makes no difference, it's not fully sealed, but I've driven through 1ft deep water to get to work (no other choice as its my only route) quite regularly (we get a lot of floods) and not had one single problem.

 

[Fred@BTM]

i'm with Mark on this, granted OMEX say its fine sticking it in the engine bay, but i never would

its a bit like using a hair dryer whilst sitting in the bath IMO!

 

[stan*]

Fitting it in the engine bay wouldnt be so bad IF it was properly secured AND dry...this obviously wasnt case here OR these problems wouldnt be problems. In any case, its not something I personally would do.

Damp causes issues with any PCB, fact, as is the case here......

 

[TheJesus]

i'm with Mark on this, granted OMEX say its fine sticking it in the engine bay, but i never would

its a bit like using a hair dryer whilst sitting in the bath IMO!

I didn't realise your Cup car was submerged in water? If Omex say it's okay I'd guess they know more about these things than we do, besides, there's other electrical parts in the engine bay that are not as well sealed, so I dont really see it causing a problem. Sounds like he's just been unlucky... I believe that's called Karma... hope it's not too expensive to sort lol

Is funny seeing all these other tuners crawl out of the woodwork to have a dig and say "oh well I'd do blah blah blah instead" though, business must be bad guys? Desperation is a stinky cologne

 

[Fred@BTM]

an engine bay isn't a nice environment! water, steam, oil heat etc etc

as said previously, a £1K piece of kit sat in the engine bay isn't the best idea IMO

look at the clio cup racers, the ecus on them are under the dash

 

[Fred@BTM]

jon i've always said i don't like the OMEX in the engine bay (even from when we did the first 600 ever, back when Andy was envolved)

 

[Fred@BTM]

anyway, mark if you won't to pop over so i can have a look at it you're welcome (i'm in Solihull)

i'm bored now, bye!

 

[MarkM]

anyway, mark if you won't to pop over so i can have a look at it you're welcome (i'm in Solihull)

i'm bored now, bye!

Thanks. I will let you know.

 

[Tom]

TBR Market ECU protection kits now, £49.99.

 

[MarkM]

TBR Market ECU protection kits now, £49.99.

LOL!

The speed that new products are coming out of TBR must be making some of the more established tuners sit up and take notice.

Can I have one covered in some of that fake carbon fibre sheet they sell in Halfords?