seized trackrod end

[DomP182]

How irritating, took my 182 to ETB get it tracked as it was pulling to the right a bit on acceleration and they confirmed it was a bit out but after a while of puffing just went "oh we cant free it its seized, take it to someone to free it off and we will set your tracking" I thought that is what they did. I have heated it up and loosened the lock nut but without a pit or ramps I cant budge it.

 

[02teasda]

When I did mine I put a spanner 13mm iirc about halfway down the tie rod and then a spanner on the track rod end and twisted them opposite ways. If you cant get it undone by hand try getting the 13mm spanner to lock against something like the strut then jack the spanner on the track rod end up until it goes. That's what I did and it worked a treat just be careful not the twist the tie rod too far round or you can do more damage further in afaik.

 

[DomP182]

the section of track rod that is nut shaped is begining to round off:S, pair of stilsons on it with heat?

 

[Dave..]

This is why I purchased an impact wrench.

 

[DannyR]

This is why I purchased an impact wrench.

Couldn't agree more, best £75 I ever spent!

 

[Dave..]

£75?

Best £250 I spent!

 

[DannyR]

Yea £75 lol, brand new Sealey one.

Used to get stuffed delivered to a distributor who was very friendly with someone who runs/owns Sealeys so he got it very cheap in the first place.

 

[DomP182]

is there and risk of damage?

 

[DomP182]

that should say any!

 

[James105]

How is an impact wrench going to help? Or I'm being thick?

A crow's foot is a very useful tool. Will give you a better surface area to help stop you rounding off the spanner section. Not always usable, depends on the tie rod.

 

[Tony Hunter]

pair of stilsons on it with heat?

That should work.

 

[Dan1587]

Or mole grips?

And you can't get a nut gun on there as they are on about the lock nut holding it to the rod not the nut holding it to the hub.

 

[DomP182]

to save the spanner section because it is beginning to round off I have been trying on the rounded section. Might just entrust in to my local?!

 

[James105]

You say you have managed to wind the locking nut back a bit? Try giving the thread into the rod a good dosage of WD40 or similar and leaving it for a while.

 

[DomP182]

Or mole grips?

And you can't get a nut gun on there as they are on about the lock nut holding it to the rod not the nut holding it to the hub.

yeah thats the bit Im on about. wish I still had a pit to use

 

[Tony Hunter]

Mind your knuckles.

 

[DomP182]

You say you have managed to wind the locking nut back a bit? Try giving the thread into the rod a good dosage of WD40 or similar and leaving it for a while.

Thats what I think I will try tomorrow if it ever stops raining, wire brush it too to get the wd40 worked in. I think its never moved since the factory

 

[rich-6]

Had you not tried heating it first before you started mullering the tierod?

 

[James105]

Mind your knuckles.

Haha! This, done it so many times even when up on a ramp, but normally on the floor when in the pits!

Thats what I think I will try tomorrow if it ever stops raining, wire brush it too to get the wd40 worked in. I think its never moved since the factory

If it moves and gets stiff, work it back and forth a bit with more WD40. Will get there eventually.

 

[DomP182]

Had you not tried heating it first before you started mullering the tierod?

lol, yeah but I think someone got there before me. Can I afford to get it real hot or will that knacker the TRE

 

[DannyR]

Oh also undo that bit first so the bit in the hub holds it steady, most people will undo the actually moving part then tackle the rod part and struggle as it's flapping around!

 

[rich-6]

lol, yeah but I think someone got there before me. Can I afford to get it real hot or will that knacker the TRE

Obvioudly dont go heating up the rubber boots,

but you can give them some real heat, tbh it shouldnt take a lot, i would be tempted once youve cracked them free to bin the ends off, clean and grease the threads and fit new ones for what they cost, afterall you dont want to go get it all lined up then find a couple months later ones knocking and needs fo be changed

You should be able to fit a pair of TREs for around £25

 

[DomP182]

Thanks folks all sorted now!