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Show Your Home Theater
- Thread starter PaulClioSport
- Start date
Gaz_
ClioSport Club Member
Extreme mode
Richer sounds pricematched the 50" VT65 for me @ £1469 delivered :approve:
Also, now have a space for the center speaker :
Just need to sort an amp now to replace the Arcam 280!
Nice that
You just need to centre up the tv and hide them wires ;-)
quite a thick border around the tv?
Nice that
You just need to centre up the tv and hide them wires ;-)
quite a thick border around the tv?
Cheers man.
TV's centered now, but being replaced by one of these tomorrow :
http://www.johnlewis.com/panasonic-...view-freesat-hd-and-voice-recognition/p425728
Wires were sorted, thought discovered today that the sub's constantly rumbling even with nothing playing through it :S. So new sub needed I think.
Currently watching Band of Brothers Blu-Ray with no sub and the Arcam not even setup correctly (doesn't have autosetup) - and it still sounds great!
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Gaz_
ClioSport Club Member
Extreme mode
Good choice I have the 42" version. Looks decent, nice picture,
However, mine does seem to suffer some backlight bleed round the 4 corners mainly evident whilst in a dark room with a dark screen displayed on the set........? There's a lot of scope for adjustment with thee sets, it's better than it was but still evident IMO.
However, mine does seem to suffer some backlight bleed round the 4 corners mainly evident whilst in a dark room with a dark screen displayed on the set........? There's a lot of scope for adjustment with thee sets, it's better than it was but still evident IMO.
Is it an LCD or Plasma set you have?
Check out the owners threads on AVforums for specific models - you'll get some ideal settings on there. Not got the brightness or contrast excessively high have you?
Can't wait to get some hours under the panel so I can get it ISF calibrated
Check out the owners threads on AVforums for specific models - you'll get some ideal settings on there. Not got the brightness or contrast excessively high have you?
Can't wait to get some hours under the panel so I can get it ISF calibrated
realnumber 1
ClioSport Club Member
Not necessarily, it's a common problem with subs...
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/how-to-stop-subwoofer-hum.htm
Thing is it's not a low level hum but a fairly loud rumble. It's not a constant tone either, varies a little.
Dammit!
Yep. Brand new VanDamme RCS cable, but checked with another.
As space is VERY limited i'm thinking as BK Gemini MK II
tried it in a dark room with a dark screen yet?
No getting away from it though, they do look awesome and the picture is generally ace
Not yet, got Argo to try later on, DTS HD Audio track too - good times
SQ5
Not yet, got Argo to try later on, DTS HD Audio track too - good times
I'd worry about tidying them cables some more
I'd worry about tidying them cables some more
Pffft, when I get the rest of that hulking twin 4mm Vandamme cable. Plus all the TV cables WERE tidy before the new TV arrived.
Alsi VT65 black levels are so so close to, if not matching 9th gen Kuro levels! Happy, happy, happy.
Just need an Arcam AV receiver, Quad power amp, PS4 and i'm happy.
I'd worry about tidying them cables some more
P.s - How're the black (aka grey) levels working out for you
. Lol.For the extra 1k I couldn't justify the negligible improvement in black levels. This will last me 1 - 2 years until OLED 4k becomes justifiable (and stable). LED 4K isn't for me. The same inherent flaws as current LED tech (though Plasma's FAR from perfect).
SQ5
P.s - How're the black (aka grey) levels working out for you
Mines still in the box!
On the plus side our move in date has finally been confirmed! 25/10
Gaz_
ClioSport Club Member
Extreme mode
tried it in a dark room with a dark screen yet?
No getting away from it though, they do look awesome and the picture is generally ace
Ahhhhhhh! my bad i never realised yours is a Plasma, mine is a TX-L42ET61B (LED) hence the bleed then!
Haha no worries. How are you finding it?
Bi-wired and bi-amped the fronts today (more clarity as a result) :
Need some braiding to hide the blue cable and finish off now.
Also researching into a decent set of open back headphones for games / music / movies at night. Currently looking at Grado SR60ii - thoughts?
Sr60 are epic headphones, nothing touches a grasp in their price points IMO. Unless you go top end and consider electrostatic which are incredible but not to everyone's taste
Oh and you don't Biwire and bi amp. You do one or the other. Bi wiring is 2 sets of wife from one amp, bi amp is using two separate amps, one for hf and one for lf
Oh and you don't Biwire and bi amp. You do one or the other. Bi wiring is 2 sets of wife from one amp, bi amp is using two separate amps, one for hf and one for lf
By separate amps you mean separate channels though, as you don't need a physical extra amp, just two spare channels on your amp that you can assign for bi-amping. (Not trying to correct you, just clearing up for those who might not know). As far as I am aware also, both wires actually transmit the same full frequency rather than HF and LF, the crossover in the speaker does the job of not playing LF from the tweeter and HF from the woofer, or at least that's how it works on my Denon. The advantage of bi-amping is that you are getting a full channel's full power to each of the two sets of posts so the amp has better control. At least that's how I understand it!
Lol, behave.
Really happy with the Quad / Arcam combo right now, though i'm tempted to upgrade the 11L2s to some 23Ls in the future along with a hefty amp upgrade.
I know that each channel is its own separate amp but I didn't want people thing they needed to buy two separate amps!
And are you sure about each channel driving one or the other and not both? On my Denon I've assigned the zone 2 posts as bi-amps for my fronts but nowhere have I specified which posts are hf and lf.
realnumber 1
ClioSport Club Member
It's like you say in your post above. Both amps would send the same signals and the speakers do the work.
Nothing I have said mentions anything about the amp splitting the signal. The simple fact is they are only providing signal to hf or lf units, hence my comment about driving the hf or lf only. It cannot be driving units its not connected to! If this doesn't make sense to you then I suggest a back to basics of speaker design is in order.
Easy mate, don't get your knickers in a twist! I simply misunderstood what you were saying, it's no biggy.
This. No need for the attitude tbh.
^ That looks great - nice job, how're you finding the Kuro? It STILL looks fresh even today!
Also, mentioned I was after a set of headphones for music / movies / gaming and was looking at Grado sr60ii - i've decided on these now :
http://www.whathifi.com/review/philips-fidelio-x1
Going to run them off the Arcams headphone output for now, but thinking of eventually running them off a dedicated headphone amp running of the Arcams preout?
Also, mentioned I was after a set of headphones for music / movies / gaming and was looking at Grado sr60ii - i've decided on these now :
http://www.whathifi.com/review/philips-fidelio-x1
Going to run them off the Arcams headphone output for now, but thinking of eventually running them off a dedicated headphone amp running of the Arcams preout?
I will be very surprised if you have seen any improvement. Bi-wiring is a marketing gimmick that defies the law of physics, the superposition principle to be exact.