stalling problem-whats going on????

[paulm172]

my '52 172 is stalling. Doesnt do it when cold but after car has reached normal operating temp.(guage as normal). When braking and depressing clutch, the revs drop well below normal idle level and the car stalls. If i leave depressing clutch til last min, it does the same. will do this repeatedly for a while then be ok again and then start stalling again. please help-its a nightmare in traffic from work!

 

[len_beach]

Dodgy coil maybe?

 

[paulm172]

Garage job then?? Not really super mechanically minded so presume that it'll have to go in to be checked?

 

[Mark_Petty]

Sounds like your idle control valve is stuck open or closed

 

[c10max]

HI mate having the same problem did you manage to sort it out, any help would be appreciated.
cheers

 

[alessandro]

fuel injection problem mayb mate??

 

[c10max]

thing is it runs ok when you press the revs, it's a bit rough when driving when it's cold, but it's just when you come to stop at a junction or lights and the revs goes right down and nearly stalls. cheers

 

[Da]

TDC sensor at a guess. Down the right hand side of the engine above the gear box. About £20 I think from dealers.

 

[c10max]

thanks mate, whats tdc mean, thought it may be the idle conytrol valve may need cleaning

 

[Da]

Top Dead Centre sensor from memory.

 

[Jaff]

it may also be your o2 sensor, it done a similar jobby on my clio, do you ever experience sudden power loss like you are driving into a head wind?

 

[Frasers Cup]

mine did exactly the same and it turned out that the coil pack, which was faulty due to the clever local renault garage using the wrong bolts and leaving it totally loose in the engine bay!

i'd get it checked as soon as, cos it will fail completely and leave u stranded like it did me!

 

[c10max]

It's funny that it runs ok, but when it's warmed up and i pull up at a junction the revs dip right down to nearly zero and then back up, sometimes it's stalls. If it was the coil pack wouldn't it do it all the time?
Didn't think it would be o2 sensor as the fuel ecomony is ok, when that when on the wife's car (ford) the fuel econmony was sh1te.

 

[VXR killer]

did any of you lot sort your cars out, if so what was it, im getting the same problem

 

[RichMcc]

mine's doing this on and off too :S
But Ive had a new engine, new plugs, so could be coil related but one of my HT leads is b0rked so I'll see if new leads sorts mine out

 

[VXR killer]

has anyone found the problem yet.......

 

[LegoHead]

this sounds like the roblem i had a few months ago. The wire to the battery was disintegrating and battery was dead.

 

[VXR killer]

i dont think it the battery, as it only does it at full temperature, its better in the cold but you can tell the problem is still there, ive tried a different coil pack and throttle body, but still there, as anybody else tried anything, whether it worked or not?

 

[VXR killer]

come on has anyone had this problem and solved it?

 

[agil]

Hi, You can check the canister purge valve locate under the right lamp if this valve is dirty inside or damaged can cause stall at idle

ANTI-POLLUTION
Fuel vapours rebreathing 14
97393-1R
BASIC DIAGRAM OF THE CIRCUIT
1 Inlet manifold
2 Incorporated canister purge solenoid valve
3 Fuel vapours absorber (canister) with solenoid
valve
4 Tank
M Breather
A Canister pipe (inlet manifold)
B Tank/Canister pipe

CANISTER PURGE CONDITION
The canister purge solenoid valve is controlled by
track 4 of the com****r when:
- the coolant temperature is greater than 55 °C,
- the air temperature is greater than 10 °C,
- a load threshold is reached,
- the throttle potentiometer position is not noload.
It is possible to display the canister purge solenoid
valve opening cyclic ratio using the diagnostic
equipment by consulting the parameter "Canister
purge solenoid valve RCO".
The solenoid valve is closed if the value is below
1.5 % (minimum value).

CANISTER PURGE OPERATION CHECK
A system malfunction may result in an unstable
idle or stalling of the engine.
Check the conformity of the circuit (refer to the
basic diagram) and the condition of the pipes to
the tank (refer to Workshop Repair Manual
MR 337)
14-1

You can remove it and clean it with carburator cleaner, be patient to put in the valve again, if you remove the bumber and lamp is much easier

Regards

 

[RichMcc]

Now that is mucho interesting!!

I was having this problem, car went to yozza, ripped the engine out and whole front end off, re-fitted it all and the problem had gone away...
Car went back, new engine fitted and now the problems back..
But because Ive got a race engine they've bloomin drilled a hole in my plenum and fitted the vapour line into it :S
Also looks like that gold bit is missing

 

[VXR killer]

where you get that plenum from looks beefy, how much it cost.