Sub Pops when i turn CD player on and Off

[craig20102010]

sorry to keep starting all these topics i did leave it as a question in my other topic but no one seems to be lookin at it now its been answered

bassically tho when i turn the CD player on the Sub kicks quite loud and also when i turn the CD player off it kicks What could this be due to

JBL Subs 10" 1000watt

SPL 450watt amp 4 2way

Standard 2volt pre out on Sony headunit

 

[night.icon]

bad earth

 

[Mole]

might also just be the amp. SPLx arent the best manufacturers.

 

[craig20102010]

lol i kno i got surgested that the wires could be the wrong way round on the subs or on one of the subs.

its a fairly big box like what ive got runnin these two subs im after a bit sharper Sounds i know i cud do with a more powerful Amp for that but i was woundering if the box might be to big as well see the picture http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1101080471__sound-001.jpg

 

[Final Maxim]

when i turn on my pc speakers they go pop, turn em off they go pop. my mates sub used to go pop too when u turned it on. no idea what it, just power getting/going from them i guess

FM

 

[craig20102010]

any idea on Making them Sound more clear? Do i just need a more Powerful Amp?

 

[Final Maxim]

could be the box. enclosed subs usually, to sound best, have to be in a certain sized box depending on watts n all that technical stuff. also porting the box can sometimes help. you should try find out the manufacturers recommendations for housing those twin subs and ported or non ported.

i could be talkin sh*t though and it could just be your amp

FM

 

[Mole]

the box does look too big, usually they say for 10" subs, around 1.25 cubic feet is the right volume,

But also the RMS power of your amp could be far less than what your subs require,

Your using an SPLx amp, which prolly is 450w Max power not RMS power. Youll prob find that the SPLx amp is only putting out around 1/2 that power, if not less.

 

[craig20102010]

yeh it will be the amp

i do think the box is to big but im not sure how to measure the Cubic size of the box so that i can get the right effect i just want sharper base i know i defferntly need a more powerful amp or one amp per sub

if made it ported what type of base would i get out i see most of the Vibe subs in ported boxes and they sound wiked and there like 12" subs ina really small box so would be helpful if you could help me on how to measure the Box to get the right cubic feet

it Says the Volume of each Box has to be 0.75ft cubed how do i turn that into a metric measurement like inches ? so that its like say 20"cubed so its easyer to work out what mine is


[Edited by craig20102010 on 22 November 2004 at 4:04pm]

 

[Friction]

The pop is basically normally a result of a capacitor discharging rapidly and sending a pulse to the sub - not particularly good for the sub, but not neccessarily bad either.

As for the box, it certainly looks too big, which will result in a flat sound that lacks punch. Ported boxes are better for SPL (loudness, although the port must be tuned accordingly), sealed boxes are easier to build and offer better SQ over ported boxes.

an inch isnt a metric measurement btw, its imperial - same as cu ft. Basically 12inches in a foot = 9 cubic inches?

 

[craig20102010]

Right so its deffernetly Sealed that i want then i dont really want Loudness i want what you sed "more punch" bassically.

I put that 0.75ft cubed into inches cubed it works out to be 1269inches cubed which is a nice big number i just got to work out now what three numbers times to gether to get that size.

 

[clio_massive]

it happens 2 my sub aswell when i turn the cd player on/off. ive just learnt to live with it

 

[derv]

here is a good place to start http://ccs.exl.info/calc_box.html#boxhttp://ccs.exl.info/calc_box.html#box
those boxes deffo look way too big, and i dont think your amp is up to the job. i started off with a sound lab amp, which i got for £10, i found most cheap amps make the sub go "pop" when they switch on and off.

 

[craig20102010]

thats mint cheers for that ill have to check that when i get home so i can work out how to use it and that. im at work at the moment

 

[Rorrie]

the box, or the fact that that subs are wired the wrong way (polarity reversed - as this is often deliberatly done to focus bass) will not casue the pop, thats somethign in the electrical system, it could be the hu, could be a bad earth on the sub, it could be the amp, its an elimination proccess, but will not be too hard if you only have 1 amp and 1 hu.

 

[Dink]

yeah the pop will be the amp
most amps have a sort of "soft on/off" circuit
i doubt the splx has one so i wouldnt bother checking anything else to be honest

 

[craig20102010]

yeh wel as long as i know its the amp and that i just need to upgrade my amp which i was going to anyway. Its just a matter of what amp or amps to get.

im thinkin about getting two mono amps or one powerful amp. the mono amps i was lookin at are the alpine <A class=headerNavigation href= "http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=12_15&products_id=2755&osCsid=0eaefbff74f32d0507a06d832ebbd163ALP-MRPM350 which seem to be nice and power ful for the RMS but they say they are:

RMS 14.4V Power
• 350W x 1 [2ohms (1%THD)]
• 200W x 1 [4ohms (1%THD)]

So this means that my Subs will run at about 200watt RMS becuase they are 4ohm subs but i dont understand what the 14.4v power is. Does this mean that i have to have 14.4volts powering the amp and if it does how do i power them or do they give out 14.4volts

 

[Friction]

14.4v is the typical voltage they use when testing. Most car alternators put out 13.8v.

Also, youd be just aswell buying one of those monoblocks and wiring the two subs for an overall 2ohm load, from a money point of view.

 

[davep24]

its the amp! characteristic of a class A amplifier, dont worry about it coz it wont do any damage. have you thought about getting a class D amp, lots of power and very low THD

 

[craig20102010]

Quote: Originally posted by Friction on 23 November 2004


14.4v is the typical voltage they use when testing. Most car alternators put out 13.8v.

Also, youd be just aswell buying one of those monoblocks and wiring the two subs for an overall 2ohm load, from a money point of view.






And how do i turn the 4ohm sub into an over all Load of 2 ohm

how do i wire that up?

[Edited by craig20102010 on 23 November 2004 at 2:56pm]