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expensive though int it mate £6000 you can buy a car for that . i rekon i could knock one up for about a £1000 with various bits he he
CTR--VX220D
Mark Fish?
runs off to ring girlfriend!!!
check out http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/
they are rotrex distributors in the uk. This is on their website:
they are rotrex distributors in the uk. This is on their website:
For Those Wanting To Build Their Own Supercharger Kit.
We can supply most of the necessary parts to make a kit for any engine or car, the one thing we cannot provide is the support bracket for the charger, as this is different for every car, even some times for the same engine fitted in different specifications of the same make and model. Let me explain. The charger needs to be supported at the front of the engine so it's drive pulley lines up with the alternator drive belt train, as it is the alternator belt that drives the charger. Some models of car have air conditioning, some don't, some have power steering pumps driven off the alternator belt, some don't, it is this complexity that means there are no support brackets unless some0ne has done it before and also kept a template of the bracket. To make one is an easy job, I say easy from a technical point of view but probably very time consuming. The bracket is made out of 10 mm flat steel plate and made with a hole for the nose of the charger to mount into and extended as long as necessary to go down the front of the engine to connect to any handy, studs, threaded holes etc, that ALL engines have. The charger can be mounted in any position that allows the belt drive train to connect up to it, in other words, mounted high or low or on any side of the engine. The only thing to be careful of is if this mounting position allows a reasonable routing for the inlet air pipe and the pressurized air out. Everyone asks us if we will make the bracket for them and the rest of the kit, the answer is basically, NO. The reason for this is we cannot give a price for something we have not seen or attempted before and we do not like open ended price jobs as it usually leads to arguments. The reason it is so difficult to price such things is that the space in the engine compartments are so limited on most cars and to make the bracket may even involve taking the engine out as you cannot see enough or get your hands in to make the bracket. As mentioned earlier, things like the air conditioning pump of power steering pump maybe in the way and these need re-siting and brackets made for same. One way to overcome the power steering problem is to throw away the standard mechanical belt drive pump for an electric one, like used on the Saxo's, this pump can be used on any car as you can site it where ever you want being a self contained unit.
OK, you have got your bracket made, the next thing is to affix an idler pulley to this bracket just below the charger pulley,so that the belt gets a good wrap on the pulley as without this the belt will slip, you will loose boost and the belt will not last 5 minutes. To fix this pulley, which we can supply, you just tap a 10 mm thread into the bracket, job done. If the run of belt to the charger from the last pulley it went around, is long, you may need an additional tensioning pulley fitted midway between the last pulley and the charger pulley. The reason I mention this is that usually you get a direct run of belt from the crank pulley to the charger, the length between being 12 to 15 inches, this is really too long. What happens in this situation is that when on boost the charger is taking power to drive it, and so the belt is tight, when you take you foot off, the charger takes no power, so momentarily the belt goes very slightly slacker, when you put your foot down again the belt slips until the tension has built up again, operating like this wears the belt out prematurely and results in no drive, no boost. To combat this we use another pulley mounted on the bracket again, somewhere about mid belt run. It should be noted this pulley is not used to tension the belt, the normal alternator adjuster is used for set up tension, this tensioner is just to keep the tension steady. NOTE; The charger works on the modern multi rib poly V type belt, for those with older cars using the thick single V belt, you need to go to the scrap yard, find a modern car, rob the alternator pulley, as these are practically universal, and take the crank pulley off. This is unlikely to fit your car but to make it work get and engineering firm to cut the outside flange off, with the ribs on, do the same with your old pulley and then weld the new rib pattern on your old crank pulley.
Once you have completed this, the hard work to doing your supercharger kit is already done. all you have to do is put a piece of string around the pulleys and measure it and get a suitable length of belt, we can help here if you have problems. One note of caution here, there is not in infinite number of belt sizes so it is just as well to try and ascertain the length you are going to need before fixing your final position for both the idler and tensioner pulleys so that the belt length will be in range of available product. The moving of the pulley fixing by 5 mm can affect belt length by up 10 mm, so you can see by careful positioning you should have no trouble getting a required length that is available.
Now all you have to do is connect an inlet hose to the charger intake, with an air filter unit. We can provide special flexible hosing for this purpose plus we have a range of K&N filters, which you would locate in any convenient position in a cool a place under the bonnet, preferably encased and piped so it can only draw cold air from the front of the car. Likewise with the pressure side, plumb it up to the throttle body using Samco or similar pressure resistant hose, anything else will just burst. If you have long runs of hose to and from the charger it is better to make a metal pipe to take either the inlet or pressurised air, as this special hose is expensive and does not have the self rigidity over long distances. The easiest way to do this is to get new exhaust pipe of the right diameter and "cut and shut" weld it together, I know this is not pretty but it is sufficient whilst you test your system, you can get custom made bent pipes and chrome them when you have finished all your conversion.
The next thing is to provide a system for inserting an extra 1 or 2 injectors, to provide the extra fuelling necessary, you do not touch your standard system for 2 reasons.
1) With our system you do not want to alter the original ECU settings for fuelling, as by leaving this alone the car just runs like it did before when off boost.
2) The complications of trying to re map the whole system (needing expensive stand alone ECU) using the original injectors to give more fuel under boost whilst keeping the off boost running the same as before are mind blowing.
What we suggest is putting in a metal section just before the throttle body that has a holder for the injector/s, we can supply both injector holders and injectors and the necessary fitting kits. After doing this all you have to do is adjust the MF2 unit, described under management.
On a car that has not been done before we recommend fitting a restrictor in the nose of the intake of the charger to reduce boost pressure whilst you set things up and if everything is Ok, gradually open it up until you get optimum settings. This is especially important when fitting over size chargers. I know you want as much BHP as possible but going the whole hog from the start is fraught with problems. If you have not got the kit set right as far as boost and fuelling, you will undoubtedly blow the engine apart, so caution is the word, remember you only need about 6 lbs of boost to get a 40% increase in power. Another factor why caution is advised, even assuming your engine is strong enough to cope with a 100% power increase, your clutch and gearbox, may not be, so go slowly with the BHP. If you go for the limit first time out and the engine, clutch or gearbox blows up, you will not know what has caused it. Even if we assume it is just too much BHP, it would be nice to go up a bit at a time to know the limitation before problems happen, then when you get to the breakage point, when you rebuild you can knock the power down to allow for this.
230.........NA 1.6 honda B series attain that sort of output and circa 600bhp when running boost.
JUst the whole, piggy back, extra injectors before the TB (great idea for fuel delivery), no mention of ignition control which is more important than fuel with boost.
i've seen plenty of their work and i'm surprised that none of the saxo's are pushing more. Saying that none of them are pushing high numbers in expensive NA builds.
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