'03 MCS, MKV Ed30
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The "Ive taken a pic and I kinda like it" thread
- Thread starter Revels
- Start date
Mk2 Golf gti
I went for some rooftopping last night. I ended up climbing a ladder onto the roof while carrying my camera and tripod, but it was worth it!
Gongeuptap Rotary. by v15ben, on Flickr
Gongeuptap Rotary. by v15ben, on Flickr
R26
Epic shot Ben!
Some great shots uploaded since my last visit.
Scott - Regarding the whole aperture thing, landscapes I never drop to f/5, ever. My landscapes, and more so sunsets and rises, are almost always shot f/16-f/20, or if I have some prominent foreground, i'll shoot f/9-f/11....i'm not saying this is right nor wrong, but it never fails me (this is shooting UWA Sigma 10-20).
The first one here for example, f/18 and tack sharp front to back.....
Here's a couple more from me...
Loch Lomond sunrise by Martin Steele., on Flickr
Eilean Donan Castle by Martin Steele., on Flickr
The boathouse by Martin Steele., on Flickr
Scott - Regarding the whole aperture thing, landscapes I never drop to f/5, ever. My landscapes, and more so sunsets and rises, are almost always shot f/16-f/20, or if I have some prominent foreground, i'll shoot f/9-f/11....i'm not saying this is right nor wrong, but it never fails me (this is shooting UWA Sigma 10-20).
The first one here for example, f/18 and tack sharp front to back.....
Here's a couple more from me...
Loch Lomond sunrise by Martin Steele., on Flickr
Eilean Donan Castle by Martin Steele., on Flickr
The boathouse by Martin Steele., on Flickr
Not an Amazing shot, but I just thought it was a cool reflection 
Through the lens by Niall97, on Flickr
Through the lens by Niall97, on Flickr
In general diffraction kicks in from f11 on aps-c and significantly lowers resolution at f16 onwards. A good article http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm
Last edited:
ITB BG 182
I do not know why, just some thing about this photo that I really like. Im loving the new lens too
View attachment 79795
View attachment 79795
Mk2 ph1 clio
'Mia' Rover Mini 35
Fiesta ST-3
Thanks mate.
Martin I think you may be confusing sharpness with depth of field.
Some notes on sharpness below that can be found on google. Note how the below notes correspond directly to the canon/sigma 10-20 MTF chart (attached) unfortunately the chart only goes to F11 but you can see the sharpness drop off already by F11 over F8. By f16-f22 its significantly lower again.
As a rough rule of thumb F5.6 -F8 should get everything in focus and will generally be the sharpest apertures to use for across frame sharpness landscapes. I might drop to F11 if I have foreground interest for increased depth of field.
“Sweet Spot” / Optimal f-number:
All lenses have an aperture setting, or range, that is called a "sweet spot" for sharpness. Each lens is different, but as a general rule of thumb, the sharpest images are taken with the aperture 2 f/stops down from the widest opening. So if your camera has a lens which is wide open at f/2.8, then the "sweet spot" will be two stops down to f/5.6.
But what many photographers don't realize is that you will also get "softer" images with the aperture at its smallest opening, due to diffraction (light rays get slightly "bent' as they squeeze through very small apertures, resulting in you getting progressively less sharp images beyond a certain aperture). When you use smaller apertures (larger f-numbers) to achieve a greater depth of field, at some point the aperture size will cause some softening due to the effects of diffraction.
Some notes on sharpness below that can be found on google. Note how the below notes correspond directly to the canon/sigma 10-20 MTF chart (attached) unfortunately the chart only goes to F11 but you can see the sharpness drop off already by F11 over F8. By f16-f22 its significantly lower again.
As a rough rule of thumb F5.6 -F8 should get everything in focus and will generally be the sharpest apertures to use for across frame sharpness landscapes. I might drop to F11 if I have foreground interest for increased depth of field.
“Sweet Spot” / Optimal f-number:
All lenses have an aperture setting, or range, that is called a "sweet spot" for sharpness. Each lens is different, but as a general rule of thumb, the sharpest images are taken with the aperture 2 f/stops down from the widest opening. So if your camera has a lens which is wide open at f/2.8, then the "sweet spot" will be two stops down to f/5.6.
But what many photographers don't realize is that you will also get "softer" images with the aperture at its smallest opening, due to diffraction (light rays get slightly "bent' as they squeeze through very small apertures, resulting in you getting progressively less sharp images beyond a certain aperture). When you use smaller apertures (larger f-numbers) to achieve a greater depth of field, at some point the aperture size will cause some softening due to the effects of diffraction.
Some great shots uploaded since my last visit.
Scott - Regarding the whole aperture thing, landscapes I never drop to f/5, ever. My landscapes, and more so sunsets and rises, are almost always shot f/16-f/20, or if I have some prominent foreground, i'll shoot f/9-f/11....i'm not saying this is right nor wrong, but it never fails me (this is shooting UWA Sigma 10-20).
The first one here for example, f/18 and tack sharp front to back.....
Here's a couple more from me...
Loch Lomond sunrise by Martin Steele., on Flickr
Eilean Donan Castle by Martin Steele., on Flickr
The boathouse by Martin Steele., on Flickr
I do believe you are correct. I'd had a long ass, bad day with no sleep when I posted LOL!
R26
For landscape shots, unless I'm trying to get the longest shutter speed possible, then I'll be anywhere between f8-f11. That's the general 'sweet spot' for most lenses.
You shouldn't really be using really large or small apertures for landscape shots.
You shouldn't really be using really large or small apertures for landscape shots.
Italian 3.2 V6
Your spot on for full frame
us poverty spec aps-c users need to drop back a stop so f8-11 on full frame equates to f5.6-8 on aps-c.
R26
Nice shot Niall.
Couple of points
- CLEAN YOUR CAMERA!
- I would try to warm up the top of the photo to remove the strong colour cast from your GND filter.
EDIT" oh....you changed the pic
Couple of points
- CLEAN YOUR CAMERA!
- I would try to warm up the top of the photo to remove the strong colour cast from your GND filter.
EDIT" oh....you changed the pic
Cheers Dan, Just as I posted this I noticed the HORRIFIC amount of dust marks on the pic, I always make sure the sensor stays clean by taking appropriate measures when changing lenses, which is a real let down Its quite embarrassing the amount of dust on this photo, makes me look like a noob who dosn’t have a clue what sensor dust is Looks like some little particles of Tenerife have found their way inside my camera, so I’m making sure that gets sorted. And yeah I’ll have a fiddle again in light room.
Its quite embarrassing the amount of dust on this photo, makes me look like a noob who dosn’t have a clue what sensor dust is Looks like some little particles of Tenerife have found their way inside my camera, so I’m making sure that gets sorted. And yeah I’ll have a fiddle again in light room.
Right, so I managed to remove the awful dust spots, which are going to be quickly dealt with, and the Sky Temp changed
Wigan Edited by Niall97, on Flickr
R26
Looks much better!
Bet that took a while to remove all those spots!
Bet that took a while to remove all those spots!
Thanks Glad I managed to recover the shot! and It did, I don’t fancy doing it for every long exposure I do, so I’m going to invest in one of those Gitzo’s Rocket Blowers and see if I can remove some of the dust, if that doesn’t work then its paying to get it done.
Glad I managed to recover the shot! and It did, I don’t fancy doing it for every long exposure I do, so I’m going to invest in one of those Gitzo’s Rocket Blowers and see if I can remove some of the dust, if that doesn’t work then its paying to get it done.
R26
Not fancy using sensor swabs? That's what I use.
They don't get 100% of the crap off, but for you I'm pretty sure one pass of those would significantly improve your sensor.
They don't get 100% of the crap off, but for you I'm pretty sure one pass of those would significantly improve your sensor.
R26
Yes, as they are physically touching the sensor, so they wipe the crud off.
Blowers are useful for removing the larger stuff, but some of the crap sticks to the sensor, so it won't be removed.
I'd try those first, a much cheaper alternative to sending it away for sure!
Blowers are useful for removing the larger stuff, but some of the crap sticks to the sensor, so it won't be removed.
I'd try those first, a much cheaper alternative to sending it away for sure!
