Interesting... I used to believe most of what he told me too... more fool me and more fool you unfortunately.
Lets cut the bulls**t.
As far as I can see you dont spend money on tuning, is that correct? I am not talking about £300 for an exhaust either.
I spend thousands on my car every year and have first hand experience of numerous companies. I have tried to build up some knowledge along the way and am not some numpty who bought a cheap ph1 with a throttle body conversion.
At the end of the day GDI AWT hillpower and hopefully most of Cliosport.net couldnt really give a s**t what your opinion on any given product is. If you cant afford to buy it then its just hot air.
il ring round some R/Rs in the northwsest now and get some prices
Lets cut the bulls**t.
As far as I can see you dont spend money on tuning, is that correct? I am not talking about £300 for an exhaust either.
I spend thousands on my car every year and have first hand experience of numerous companies. I have tried to build up some knowledge along the way and am not some numpty who bought a cheap ph1 with a throttle body conversion.
At the end of the day GDI AWT hillpower and hopefully most of Cliosport.net couldnt really give a s**t what your opinion on any given product is. If you cant afford to buy it then its just hot air.
therein lies the problem, "as far as you can see"... always a good indicator of knowing sweet f-all. My Williams has receipts for almost 15k (some of which I gave to Ben to do work... so I have experience of him there), I also spent considerable time when Mehdi had the white ITB'd Clio done as we went on at least 4 seperate occasions to pick it up being told it was finished. With him being a close mate of mine when he gets updates I naturally got them too seeing as we share an interest in tuned Clio's. I wont discuss what I spend on this one, but suffice to say it's faster than when I bought it... by some margin now. So unfortunately, while I cant go and tune a car myself (which I have no interest in doing) I have seen a hell of a lot of tuned Clio's in various states, both Mk1 and Mk2 and am informed enough to say what I think does and doesn't work
You may spend thousands on tuning but your not doing the work are you? So how does merely paying for the full kit and having it installed increase ones knowledge pray tell? I'd be dropping the car off with whoever was doing the work and my ass would be on a train back to manchester until it's done... yet through some amazing twist in what we call reality this would somehow make me more knowledgable on the subject? Tell you what, you give me £1000 and I'll give you some more IQ, I'll PM you my account number :clown:
Sadly it's not quite how it works, I take an interest in something and have had Clio's for a while now, so I know based on the current market selection of mods what does and doesn't work. In relation to this new kit I have no idea, hence the reason I asked and I'm sure the other 12'000 view's were also keen in knowing after 8 months of speculation and hype.
LOL. I thought we were going to cut the bulls**t.
I am happy in the fact that I own a nice house and have plenty of disposable income, who cares about IQ? How old are you? I bet you still live with your mum or at best rent a s**tty 1 bed flat, lol.
you made reference to buying mods making you automatically knowledgable, I'm telling you how stupid that sounds.
Some simple modifications to the fuelling and spark maps sorted them out. When I spoke to Andy a few months ago he was still trying to fob me off with the OMEX hardware fault. Apparently these problems were nothing to do with the mapping.
For the idle problem he wanted to fit an air bypass valve. I had a go at it myself one Sunday morning. The OMEX adds or takes away advance to acheive an idle setpoint. If you want it to idle at 1100rpm it monitors the revs and adds advance it it goes below and takes it away if it goes above. You can monitor a graph that shows rpm vs ignition. My car was sitting at 900rpm always adding advance but never acheiving the setpoint because the rpm was already to low. By increasing the advance in the static map at idle rpm I got a perfectly stable idle.
By using my common sense I acheived something that Andy had tried numerous times to sort but couldnt. I remember going to GDI and describing this problem for the first time to Andy. He rushed out with an allen key and wound the stop on the throttle body. If he new anything about mapping a car he probably would have realised that the idle is based on the throttle position so by winding the throttle body increased the TPS feedback and the OMEX thinks you have the throttle pressed so does not try to idle. Another disaster where the car left worse then it had arrived.
It appears that I am more knowledgeable then Andy when it comes to getting a car to idle using this method. Maybe I could set myself up as an approved OMEX mapper. Read this post would you believe I knew what I was on about?
How much have you delved into the engine mapping side of things? I write control system software for a living mostly factory automation but its not disimilar to engine mapping. You use the inputs from sensors/devices to control outputs via a software program.
I remember spending many a Sunday afternoon in a cold garage helping my dad fix his old bangers. It kind of put me off the whole grease monkey side of cars. At the end of the day I can afford to pay someone else to do that for me.
Some simple modifications to the fuelling and spark maps sorted them out. When I spoke to Andy a few months ago he was still trying to fob me off with the OMEX hardware fault. Apparently these problems were nothing to do with the mapping.
For the idle problem he wanted to fit an air bypass valve. I had a go at it myself one Sunday morning. The OMEX adds or takes away advance to acheive an idle setpoint. If you want it to idle at 1100rpm it monitors the revs and adds advance it it goes below and takes it away if it goes above. You can monitor a graph that shows rpm vs ignition. My car was sitting at 900rpm always adding advance but never acheiving the setpoint because the rpm was already to low. By increasing the advance in the static map at idle rpm I got a perfectly stable idle.
By using my common sense I acheived something that Andy had tried numerous times to sort but couldnt. I remember going to GDI and describing this problem for the first time to Andy. He rushed out with an allen key and wound the stop on the throttle body. If he new anything about mapping a car he probably would have realised that the idle is based on the throttle position so by winding the throttle body increased the TPS feedback and the OMEX thinks you have the throttle pressed so does not try to idle. Another disaster where the car left worse then it had arrived.
It appears that I am more knowledgeable then Andy when it comes to getting a car to idle using this method. Maybe I could set myself up as an approved OMEX mapper. Read this post would you believe I knew what I was on about?
Gaining experience of engines and how they work is all well and good, but if someone asks you what cams they should put in their car do you think the average person on here wants a load of BS and waffle about combustion etc etc or a simple, this works, that doesn't.
Gaining experience of engines and how they work is all well and good, but if someone asks you what cams they should put in their car do you think the average person on here wants a load of BS and waffle about combustion etc etc or a simple, this works, that doesn't.
Thats probably the difference between us then. You are happy to understand cars and how they work at a lower level to me.
Going back to ITBs I read an article in a book that described how different inlet lengths effected the performance characteristics of the engine. Basically a longer length gives better torque and shorter more top end. Its like modern cars with variable inlets where a valve closes at a certain rpm to shorten it giving the best of both worlds. When you look at the ktec setup with its short trumpets you think that must be all top end and no torque.
How much have you delved into the engine mapping side of things? I write control system software for a living mostly factory automation but its not disimilar to engine mapping. You use the inputs from sensors/devices to control outputs via a software program.
I remember spending many a Sunday afternoon in a cold garage helping my dad fix his old bangers. It kind of put me off the whole grease monkey side of cars. At the end of the day I can afford to pay someone else to do that for me.
and this has what relevance to yours or indeed my knowledge on ITB's or mods in general for the Clio? So you think you have an idea on how to map a car... great, I like apples... what is your point?
Gaining experience of engines and how they work is all well and good, but if someone asks you what cams they should put in their car do you think the average person on here wants a load of BS and waffle about combustion etc etc or a simple, this works, that doesn't. It's like someone that PM'd me the other day asking if they should use Piper 270's in their car, I told them that on an otherwise stock engine that doesn't like to rev they are pointless and to go for something around a 260, or whatever the cat ones measured at on mine (F7R by the way). I know the 270's dont work from personal experience and from when other people have used them and they have needed more revs than the engine can safely deliver. This is just purely an example, but you say single TB is pointless and does nothing, well I'm telling you otherwise. We can go round in circles and do the whole you insult me and I come back with something infinitely more witty and creative but then the thread would just get locked needlessly.
no, the mods could do with advising or a bit of editing, this thread will only rise again