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tuning options?



  Better than yours. C*nt.
Not bothering and buying something with a turbo and tuning potential in the first place.

I don't like being Mr. Negative but once you're bored of the power an exhaust, map, cams and intake system gives you on your RS then you need to look for something like the VAG 1.8T which you can tune the b****cks off, as the F4R isn't particularly fruitful in it's gains until you spend more money than makes sense on these things. It's really an engine for tuners to showcase what they can do, rather than for the masses to make rediculously quick.

Example the 2litre Duratec lump Ford do gets part of 280-300bhp from Throttlebodies, whereas I've seen no more than 250bhp on an F4R - and if that's flywheel then the Ford/Yamaha 1.6 Sigma engine won't be far behind that as that can get around 220@fly in top tune.
 
Example the 2litre Duratec lump Ford do gets part of 280-300bhp from Throttlebodies, whereas I've seen no more than 250bhp on an F4R - and if that's flywheel then the Ford/Yamaha 1.6 Sigma engine won't be far behind that as that can get around 220@fly in top tune.

If you put some very wild cams on and strengthen the bottom end to rev to 9k you will get 280bhp + out of an F4R. You havent seen it because not many clio owners are prepared to fork out 15k on an engine.
 
  Meg on pistonheads £6995
FatFighters

Lose three stone yourself, rear seats, spare wheel, jack, headrest bar one and drive round on orange light

Approx 100kg lost or equivalent of 15bhp gained, for FREE!
 
  Better than yours. C*nt.
Example the 2litre Duratec lump Ford do gets part of 280-300bhp from Throttlebodies, whereas I've seen no more than 250bhp on an F4R - and if that's flywheel then the Ford/Yamaha 1.6 Sigma engine won't be far behind that as that can get around 220@fly in top tune.

If you put some very wild cams on and strengthen the bottom end to rev to 9k you will get 280bhp + out of an F4R. You havent seen it because not many clio owners are prepared to fork out 15k on an engine.

Whereas you can get the Duratec with all ancillaries running 280-300bhp for £6-7k...
 
  Better than yours. C*nt.
FatFighters

Lose three stone yourself, rear seats, spare wheel, jack, headrest bar one and drive round on orange light

Approx 100kg lost or equivalent of 15bhp gained, for FREE!

She's a lady (ok, she's female) - you can't tell a female to lose weight! Not and keep your manhood!
 
  AMV8, Mk1 Golf
FatFighters

Lose three stone yourself, rear seats, spare wheel, jack, headrest bar one and drive round on orange light

Approx 100kg lost or equivalent of 15bhp gained, for FREE!

She's a lady (ok, she's female) - you can't tell a female to lose weight! Not and keep your manhood!

lol lose 3 stone?? that would make me like 5.5 stone :S

i want to keep my clio - but make it a wee bit special, bit different from everyother one
 
If you put some very wild cams on and strengthen the bottom end to rev to 9k you will get 280bhp + out of an F4R. You havent seen it because not many clio owners are prepared to fork out 15k on an engine.

Whereas you can get the Duratec with all ancillaries running 280-300bhp for £6-7k...

Duratec is a more modern efficient engine but it isnt easy to get that power

http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Duratec/Duratec Taper throttle top of the range kit.htm

You might get the bits for 6-7k but that doesnt include fitting.

steel crank, steel rods & Omega high compression pistons, a dry sump system, high specification camshafts and an upper & lower injection system. Plus new ECU and loom and ITBs
 
http://www.shawspeed.com/fdura.htm

It'll take a day to swap the engines over between a car that shipped with a 2ltDuratec if you're a noob, it'll take a professional all of 4-5 hours.

Arent they just kit prices? You still need someone to fit to an engine.

With Throttle Bodies

230bhp Kit £3257.12 inc. VAT
Twin Jenvey throttle body setup, Omex 600 management ECU & Loom, Inlet manifold, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, Air filter, Lightweight alternator setup, injector blanks, pair SS2 cams, EGR and water system blanks, set heavy duty big end bolts

250bhp Kit £5225.17 inc. VAT
As above with SS3 inlet cam and heavy duty valve spring set, set forged pistons, set steel rods, ported head

260bhp Kit £5286.85 inc. VAT
As above with SS3 inlet and exhaust cams and double valve spring set
 
To get someone to fit this lot to an F4R inlcuding part and mapping would be 6k and you would be lookin at 220bhp ish

230bhp Kit £3257.12 inc. VAT
Twin Jenvey throttle body setup, Omex 600 management ECU & Loom, Inlet manifold, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, Air filter, Lightweight alternator setup, injector blanks, pair SS2 cams, EGR and water system blanks, set heavy duty big end bolts
 

Christopher

ClioSport Club Member
  Z4M
decat
awt inlets
cup racer induction system with battery relocation
set of new cams
remap

that's what i'm trying for, you won't be talking silly money either.
 
other than ITB's there's not much worth bothering with on these engines Laura, bar cams as Carbon said... you already have that Maxogen thingy anyway which I believe are very good... so really you just want a set of cams, inlet match and a remap... failing that just get a big power potential turbo car, Golf, TT or S3 or go jap.
 
I disagree. A low ratio gear box and lsd will probably give you a faster car point to point than itbs / cam set up, but that kind of depends on the roads or tracks you use. A sadev box from a cup racer, second hand, is not that expensive and easy to fit. It will give much better performance than most common tuning packages. You could also look at proper suspension modifications. I dont mean the off the shelf stuff people put on their cars, but expensive, well set up, lightweight components.

it kind of depends if you want to talk horse power down the pub, or want a fast car.
 
  M2 Competition
A cup gearbox also needs rebuilding often.

Aye, but she already has coilovers iirc, so sounds like shes after more power.

Thought about stripping the interior/ fitting buckets taylor?

Lots of gains to be had from weight saving.
 
I disagree. A low ratio gear box and lsd will probably give you a faster car point to point than itbs / cam set up, but that kind of depends on the roads or tracks you use. A sadev box from a cup racer, second hand, is not that expensive and easy to fit. It will give much better performance than most common tuning packages. You could also look at proper suspension modifications. I dont mean the off the shelf stuff people put on their cars, but expensive, well set up, lightweight components.

it kind of depends if you want to talk horse power down the pub, or want a fast car.

low ratio box and LSD means Sadev as you say... these are not cheap and need rebuilding a lot... fine for a track car but not on the road... also would love to know how much "not that expensive is" really is. but yeah, they are better than ITB's for performance, think a Cup Racer using one is 0-100 in around 11 seconds or under?
 
I disagree. A low ratio gear box and lsd will probably give you a faster car point to point than itbs / cam set up, but that kind of depends on the roads or tracks you use. A sadev box from a cup racer, second hand, is not that expensive and easy to fit. It will give much better performance than most common tuning packages. You could also look at proper suspension modifications. I dont mean the off the shelf stuff people put on their cars, but expensive, well set up, lightweight components.

it kind of depends if you want to talk horse power down the pub, or want a fast car.

I havent seen a sadev box for less then 3k secondhand and doubt it would be great in the morning rush hour.

I agree that the shorter ratio box and lsd would be a good idea but again you wont see much change from 2.5k fitted.

What sort of suspension are you talking about?

Its horses for courses most people want a headline grabbing bhp figure before lsd and gearboxes are even thought about.
 
A cup gearbox also needs rebuilding often.

This is not true. The helical gear set from UK cup race cars can last for years with no rebuilds. Even the straight cut boxes of the european season do not require frequent rebuilds if serviced regularly. Speak to SWR about logivety of the boxes, which are as good as you will get from any standard box. Most rebuilds are needed because people fail to install full throttle cut ecu software, and obviously if you flat shift a sequential box with no throttle cut, the gears set will take a hammering.
 
  VRS
decat
awt inlets
cup racer induction system with battery relocation
set of new cams
remap

that's what i'm trying for, you won't be talking silly money either.

Whats the cup induction system like mate?

This plan sounds good to me :)

the cup induction system id like what markm has got! the battery is relocated and instead of a 90degree inlet elbow u use a 30 degree one iirc! the filter basically sits behind the headlight.
 
A cup gearbox also needs rebuilding often.

This is not true. The helical gear set from UK cup race cars can last for years with no rebuilds. Even the straight cut boxes of the european season do not require frequent rebuilds if serviced regularly. Speak to SWR about logivety of the boxes, which are as good as you will get from any standard box. Most rebuilds are needed because people fail to install full throttle cut ecu software, and obviously if you flat shift a sequential box with no throttle cut, the gears set will take a hammering.

more hassle than it's worth, they would want servicing after each race, so factor in your average week and some of the days it will be given death and your probably looking at weekly to 2 weekly service intervals... on a road car... pointless and no cheaper than ITB's... would have a faster car, but I'd go for bodies every time.
 
  Clio 172 mk2
260bhp NA engine would be nice...how 'usable' would it be on the road though...i.e where would the power be?

For 5k I think I'd have to be looking at a different car
 
  AMV8, Mk1 Golf
i just want a fast day to day car, will rarely see the track tbh

i would like a nice jap car but for me insurance is a bit of a issue as im 19

and well i like my hatchs
 
  BMW M4; S1000 RR
At the end of the day, it's a FWD hatch. (Along with everything else discussed)

How much power can you really throw at it before it starts hurting you..

Wanting more than 200hp I would want RWD to pair. Though with the common mods stated, I imagine it makes for interesting drives in the Clio. After all it's still going to be competing with over 95% of cars on the road.
 
260bhp NA engine would be nice...how 'usable' would it be on the road though...i.e where would the power be?

For 5k I think I'd have to be looking at a different car

it would be easily usable if it's setup correctly, your only going to have traction problems in the first two gear and maybe a bit of spin in 3rd with decent rubber (not GSD3's!)
 


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