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Turbo



  S4 (320bhp) + Clio 16v


Next year me and my bro are thinking of finding a mint (exterior) williams or valver high miles on it and recon the old engine and turbo it. Strip it out completely! Take it on track and 1/4 miling. Has it been done and one on here got it or any info advice would be great!
 


You dont want a williams if your thinking about turboing it - you want a valver. (for many reasons) one being that the crank is alot stronger (s/s in fact) allowing you to rev harder / longer.

Tho TBH - why not just buy a car thats already turbod like an R5,RST,scooby - will be alot cheaper in the long run if your just thinking / dreaming about track days.
 


i suspect a light FWD turbo car is totally useless on 1/4 mile


Quote: Originally posted by tom-m on 03 March 2004
Next year me and my bro are thinking of finding a mint (exterior) williams or valver high miles on it and recon the old engine and turbo it. Strip it out completely! Take it on track and 1/4 miling. Has it been done and one on here got it or any info advice would be great!  
 


Quote: Originally posted by crono33 on 03 March 2004

i suspect a light FWD turbo car is totally useless on 1/4 mile



Quote: Originally posted by tom-m on 03 March 2004


Next year me and my bro are thinking of finding a mint (exterior) williams or valver high miles on it and recon the old engine and turbo it. Strip it out completely! Take it on track and 1/4 miling. Has it been done and one on here got it or any info advice would be great!





my thoughts exactly
 
  Nippy white cup


This aint too bad tho...
B9 GTT
Having now gone to a good home in Newcastle, this was an animal of a car. The best time run in the car at Santa Pod raceway was 13.05 standing quarter mile at 111mph. The car is extremely well known and was featured front page in Fast Car magazine last year, and was also on show at Max Power Live, USC 99 and 00, The Motor Show 00 Fast Car Stand and Trax 00 Fast Car Stand.
B9 also won Best Interior at Mean Street Cruise on two occasions in 2000.
Catch B9 on television later on in the year having been filmed at one of the Cruises last year.

1st at USC 99 13.9 at 109 m.p.h. (1st day ever run down the stip)
2nd at USC 00 13.2 at 109 m.p.h.
 
  S4 (320bhp) + Clio 16v


Sorry didnt explain myself prperly. Its not going to be used just for track and 1/4 mile. will be an everyday car as well. true doesnt have to be a clio but y not? Just the fact u dont see many turbo clios as well!
 
  2005 Nissan Navara


rockport-wot do u mean by s/s? if its wot i think it is,stainless steel, WTF!!

id say a willy crank is stronger than a 1.8, since it is the same as the diesel one, is it not?
 


Quote: Originally posted by tom-m on 03 March 2004

Far slower! Dont they push about the same as a williams??
Williams is about 150bhp as standard. R5 GTTs are 115/120bhp as standard but weigh less. Worth noting that my mate spent about a hundred quid on his (bleed valve etc) and saw 160bhp the same day. Theyre far more tunable and will be faster for cheaper.....but thats true of any turbo i suppose!
 


yup, the turbo will be easier to tune and a billion parts are out there already.

But an extra 400cc and extra 8 valves with a turbo would be better.
 
  S4 (320bhp) + Clio 16v


lol. For the price i could get a williams for i could get an 5 plus a lot more money left to spend on the engine! Just toying with ideas at the mo.
 
  2005 Nissan Navara


it depends how far u wanna go with it. u could run a low pressure system and not really need to touch internals-cheap

or u could run 2bar, spend a couple of thousand on the engine-more expensive
 


1.8 16v with low comp pistons special rods uprated bolts special shells one off oil pump wire ringed block big valve head one off cams springs hybrid turbo one off head stud kit baffled sump charge cooler paddle clutch one off gearbox with gripper diff uprated drive shafts
 


yes but biggest expense is turbos so why lose 100 bhp on low comp block pistons are only 40 notes each as you say where do you stop
 


Quote: Originally posted by BenR on 03 March 2004


no......the 1.8 crank is stronger.

and agree, it aint stainless!!!!!
Didnt mean to say S/S - meant "Steel" and if it isnt stronger then the williams crank then BBPT must be talking out of there arse - personal i know who i would believe.
 


lots cheaper than nine as long as you dont produce in excess of 250 bhp as stock clutch and box can be used. not stock clutch but not twin paddle
 


Quote: Originally posted by rockport on 03 March 2004


Quote: Originally posted by BenR on 03 March 2004


no......the 1.8 crank is stronger.

and agree, it aint stainless!!!!!
Didnt mean to say S/S - meant "Steel" and if it isnt stronger then the williams crank then BBPT must be talking out of there arse - personal i know who i would believe.



Its more a case that the williams crank is physically stronger as it was taken from a diesel lump... but the crank from a 1.8 16v is suppose to be better for tuneability and high reving ;)
 
  2005 Nissan Navara


personally dont know which crank is stronger! (never done analysis of them!)

the 1.8 crank has shorter thro (obviously), so this will lower CR aswell. it will allow the engine to rev higher since piston speed is lower (less distance to travel in one revolution)
 


rod/stroke ratios, acceleration rates, peak speeds.

The 7p is some 10mm shorter than the 7r, so thats a mightly low CR! lol

but it has longer rods and lower compression height.
 


Is the crank shaft strenght that important has anyone broke one and been told that if youd had the other crank you would have been ok?

The diesel one (turbo) held back 93hp at ~4k so when you rev the engine to 8k then it should be good for least 186hp as doubling the revs with the same torque gives twice the HP and thats before you take account of the extra strenght the company build into them

Looking at the cransk wont tell you which is stronger you need to know how they are made one may be lighter and smaller but much stronger.
 
  2005 Nissan Navara


TBH either crank will be easily up 2 the job. its the rods/pistons that should be considered 4 high boost.

it isnt the power that will do the damage, it is the torque. but ur right, there is a safety factor, thats why either will be up 2 it!

Ben, wot is the effective piston height difference between 7p and 7r at TDC?
 


Quote: Originally posted by edde on 03 March 2004


Is the crank shaft strenght that important has anyone broke one and been told that if youd had the other crank you would have been ok?

The diesel one (turbo) held back 93hp at ~4k so when you rev the engine to 8k then it should be good for least 186hp as doubling the revs with the same torque gives twice the HP and thats before you take account of the extra strenght the company build into them

Looking at the cransk wont tell you which is stronger you need to know how they are made one may be lighter and smaller but much stronger.
That is a very weird and erm, not very sensical way of looking at crank strength. The 2ltr should be able to take the torque, but not the rpm.
 


Quote: Originally posted by stan* on 03 March 2004


TBH either crank will be easily up 2 the job. its the rods/pistons that should be considered 4 high boost.

it isnt the power that will do the damage, it is the torque. but ur right, there is a safety factor, thats why either will be up 2 it!

Ben, wot is the effective piston height difference between 7p and 7r at TDC?





The difference between deck heights or comperssion heights?

I dunno as i havent got either piston handy to measure.
 


Quote: Originally posted by stan* on 03 March 2004

ur m8 might have seen 160 that day, but how long did it last?
Well, he sold the car not long after but id imagine its still going. He got 160 and also put silicone hoses in, dump valve, strapped the intercooler so it could handle it more safely. The car had only done about 80k as well which helped.
 
  BMW 320d Sport


Im gonna ignore all the 5GTT vs. F7 engine nonsense - apart from to say that theres no substitute for capacity, as Ben so eloquently put it, an extra 400cc and 8 valves makes a big difference if its turbocharged the same.

The thing Im more interested in is why you would want a turbocharged motor if youre building a track day car? Id want a highly tuned NA engine for track work, not a turbo. I drive a turbo valver because I want a bloody quick road Clio and it is, plus it serves my purposes on the 1/4 mile. But the characteristics of turbo power delivery are definitely not what you want on a track, NA is the way to go.
 
  S4 (320bhp) + Clio 16v


Its not going to be just for track mate. any every day car that i could take on track days and do 1/4 mile and that. same sort of approach as u!
 


I turboed my F7P for 6,500 pounds. I would consider getting a turboed motor and then chuch that sort of money a it. I love my clio turbo, but it has cost me a mint! Definately wouldnt even consider the old push rod and tappet mate. Not in the same league.
 


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