Understanding the UCH...

[CrippsCorner]

Right it looks like mine might be at fault with a blown relay. After much searching, it seems there are a few options. Renault seem to charge a bomb... so I could get mine repaired, or buy a second hand one.

Can you buy simply the UCH on it's own, if it's from another Clio 182 with the right code on it? It seems most of the sets on eBay etc. come with the ECU and other things which I don't need! Alternatively I could have a go at the repair myself, although I'm a bit worried about messing it up even further.

 

[Mike@Rentech]

get a used one the same part number and type , open it up remove the surface mount chip its an 8 pin chip 93C**** on it if I remember correctly and swop it with your one.
but you need to be good with a soldering iron and make sure you fit it correctly.
I have done a few for local motor traders and most of the time its sorted problems out fine.

 

[Mike@Rentech]

this vid may help..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1WuSkFJ0k0

 

[CrippsCorner]

Hi mate, thanks for the advice but I think I'm having a different issue, this is what's related to mine...

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...2-UCH-investigation-solution&highlight=window

It's this relay that seems to go...

I was talking it over with a couple of electronics guys at work and they seem a bit dubious about it... willing to give it a go though if it saves me over £100.

 

[MicKPM]

Make sure you've not got water ingress first otherwise any repair/replacement will be short lived

 

[Mike@Rentech]

The chip holds all the coding , so doing what I have said will sort it. It allows use of a 2nd hand uch.

 

[CrippsCorner]

Right! I get you know, I thought you meant to apply the replacement chip to my PCB, but you're meaning the other way round aren't you... that's certainly an option.

Where's the best place to look for a UCH on it's own? All the ones on eBay come complete with everything for about £140 which I really don't need

 

[Chip-mk1]

Right! I get you know, I thought you meant to apply the replacement chip to my PCB, but you're meaning the other way round aren't you... that's certainly an option.

Where's the best place to look for a UCH on it's own? All the ones on eBay come complete with everything for about £140 which I really don't need

I cant think why anyone would sell a UCH cheap seperately TBH as it makes the key and ecu then worthless anyway.


If you have a remap currently, its worth trying to keep your ECU for that reason, so Mike's suggestions is certainly worth a go.

Just bear in mind if you make a mistake with the soldering and damage the chip, you will have to go and buy a complete set then anyway, although thats not a big deal of course as 140 quid isnt really the end of the world like it would be back if you did this when the cars were a lot newer and not being broken so much.

 

[mikeh]

That relay is through hole isn't it? That should be easier to change than a surface mount chip that is likely to be quite delicate, isn't it?

 

[CrippsCorner]

I cant think why anyone would sell a UCH cheap seperately TBH as it makes the key and ecu then worthless anyway.


If you have a remap currently, its worth trying to keep your ECU for that reason, so Mike's suggestions is certainly worth a go.

Just bear in mind if you make a mistake with the soldering and damage the chip, you will have to go and buy a complete set then anyway, although thats not a big deal of course as 140 quid isnt really the end of the world like it would be back if you did this when the cars were a lot newer and not being broken so much.

Good point I do actually have a remap on mine so don't want to be changing the ECU out... if I can't get hold of a UCH separately I'm still probably better off giving the relay bridge a go as it's 44p for a resistor compared to £140 lol.

 

[mikeh]

Why do you want to bridge the relay? It's there for a reason. Replace it.

 

[CrippsCorner]

Well tbh I'm just going but this guys thread...

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...2-UCH-investigation-solution&highlight=window

Specifically this section...

As far as I can surmise, the only function of the relay is for the one-touch function but as there's no one-touch activated on the passenger side, it's therefore redundant. As I said in the write-up, the feed is fused by the 30 amp window fuse at the fusebox and is a switched live anyway, so there is a suitable level of protection there already and the 30 amp fuse only serves the passenger side circuit anyway - the driver's side window is controlled by the UCH fuse in the centre of the fusebox.

It also seems very hard to get hold of the right replacement.

 

[mikeh]

Fair enough, if that's the case then it makes sense.

 

[CrippsCorner]

Almost at the end of my tether with this one! I tried doing the bridging test on the UCH connection as per...

UCH

Next it was time to bypass the UCH and test the window, so I bridged the Y/R and red wires at the connector with a length of wire. The feed to the UCH is both switched and fused, so this was a completely safe thing to do. Bingo! The window worked, well at least it went up and down, I’ll gloss over the fact that the regulator obviously needs a bit of investigation where it holds the window!

View attachment 103575

This highlighted that the UCH was to blame! Surprise surprise... so it was time to remove it and start working out what was going on.

However when bridged, my window still refused to move!? Also, I found it strange that I am supposedly getting no voltage at the window fuse despite the drivers side working perfectly. Any additional ideas? I'm beginning to admit defeat and take it to the garage

 

[andy_casey]

The driver's side runs off a separate circuit, so that'll explain why it works and the passenger side does not.

Have you supplied 12v directly to the window mech to prove it works?

 

[CrippsCorner]

Anyone know where the cables from the switch on the passenger door go... is it to the connector that plugs into the UCH?