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what oil for a 90k valver





my valver is due its 90.000 mile service soon,

i had magnatec put in it on its last service at 84k, however i am not happy with the oil, the grade in it is 10w 40.

is it still ok to use this grade oil (another make obviously) as the engine has done a fair few miles now,

i spoke to a garage who specialise in renos, and he said hed put in fully sythetic, like it should have ?? and that it would be 5w

apart from the grade to put in please could people tell me the make of it ,and where to get it from,

many thanks !!
 


im going to sound dumb here, but will normal castrol in 10w 40 be fine,

as with the magnatec it sounds awful (like a diesel) when cold.
 


where do i get elf and silkolene olils from ???

ive never seen them anywhere !

also from what i remember my 16v never used to sound like a diesel when cold ???
 


Its much more prominant when the oil levels a little low...

U can get Elf from ya local reno dealer, i used ELF competition ST 10w40 and thought it was great, dunno wot it will be like for a high miler tho... perhaps a differnt weight oil might be better.

Check around some car stores for silkolene, never used it but ive heard lots of people say good things about it!
 
  Titanium 182


valvoline max life for higher milled performance engines, iv used it, makes it a little quiter on cold mornings

cant remeber the grade, but its thin but developed for old lumps
 
  Skoda Fabia vRS


your right about Magnatec, dunno what it is but its done it to loads of people on this forum hardly anyone on here uses it

id recommend Silkolene 10W-50 from http://www.a-pp.comwww.a-pp.com

remember when lookin at the price its in 5L bottles not 4 and is a fully synthetic oil of the highest quality
 


next question is, if i buy oil and get the garage to use it when its serviced, how much oil do i need ???
 


90K isnt a high milage engine, its just entering puberty.

a good semi of sull synth 10w40 for winter and 15w50 for summer is fine.

ELF comp semi from ren is both cases is great, castrol is fine, shell helix, total is fine, most oils are fine. Just when its a cheap oil its a cheap oil. The correct ACEA cetificate will proove its fine.

There are better oils that you can get via the net and cost a tad more and you have to wait, and generally its not worth it. I would run the elf stuff from ren as its good stuff, cheap although serive life should really be about 3-5k if you do alot of town driving. Its cheap so changes are just general running costs.
 


Quote: Originally posted by cat171 on 07 January 2004

how much oil do i need ???
The book states 6.5L, but Ive never needed to put this much in mine at oil changes, about 6L only.

Remember you need some left over as the valvers use oil over time and you will need to top it up every 1-2K.
 


buy 2 x 5ltrs containers, or 2 x 1 gallon alternativly.

The sumps got bigger the later they are, my valver used to only take about 4ltrs where as both the williams engines are over 5 with my williams 3 taking almost 6ltrs when i did its last week!

remeber a sump plug washer - the the filter feel like its not coming just keep trying, it dosent just move then spin straight off, needs a good 3/4s of a turn mega hard and its easy to thnk its not turning, if its been left its always a good 30-40mins to free off. The first valver was impossible to move even while i had the bumper,bonnet,radiator & removed.

what ever happened to the nice filters with the nut on the outside?
 


Quote: Originally posted by 16v - 2.0 on 07 January 2004

what ever happened to the nice filters with the nut on the outside?
Use a williams/megane 2.0 oil filter. Exactly the same inside as a valver one, just a bit shorter and has a nut on the back.
 


Quote: Originally posted by 16v - 2.0 on 07 January 2004


buy 2 x 5ltrs containers, or 2 x 1 gallon alternativly.

The sumps got bigger the later they are, my valver used to only take about 4ltrs where as both the williams engines are over 5 with my williams 3 taking almost 6ltrs when i did its last week!

remeber a sump plug washer - the the filter feel like its not coming just keep trying, it dosent just move then spin straight off, needs a good 3/4s of a turn mega hard and its easy to thnk its not turning, if its been left its always a good 30-40mins to free off. The first valver was impossible to move even while i had the bumper,bonnet,radiator & removed.

what ever happened to the nice filters with the nut on the outside?
thanks for that,

i aint goin anywhere near it, im going to give them the oil and tell them to use it for the service,

just need to find the right place to get to work on it !!
 
  Clio 190bhp Hybrid


For 15 quid you can get national tyres to do it with Duckhams QXR semi synthetic and new filter. That is what I do with a voucher they put in the paper. Oil is worth at least 20 quid and filter costs at least a fiver, plus all the hassle. Cheaper to get somewhere like them to do it.

If you prefer to take it elsewhere and provide own oil etc. Halfords fully synthetic on offer at £14.99 at the mo and you can get Total Quartz semi from GSF cheap with our 10 percent discount.
 


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