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What oil??



Shall I put in my mk2 Clio 172??? I know people say ELF from Renault but can others be put in or is it best to put that in???

Also, what coolant?? Any off the shelf or are some better than others??

Thanks

:)
 
  Skoda Fabia vRS
use a good fully synthetic 5W-40, better can be had than Elf, its just Renault have ties with them, pm oilman on here

for the coolant, use the Renault stuff, its cheaper from GSF than the dealers though
 
  Clio 172 mk2
BRUN said:
use a good fully synthetic 5W-40, better can be had than Elf, its just Renault have ties with them, pm oilman on here

for the coolant, use the Renault stuff, its cheaper from GSF than the dealers though

Yep....5/40w is my oil of choice
 
I've just had my oil changed with Motul 300V POWER 5w-40. The engine does feel a lot smoother. Should also improve mpg, but only got it done on Friday so too soon to tell.
 
  193 mk2
motul 300v 5w40 or silkoline pro s 5w40 both are very good quality fully synthetic oils
 
Fred2001Dynamic said:
can't handle the heat, i'd aviod it

Don't be daft, you clearly don't know what you are talking about. It's a race oil, a real synthetic ester/pao.

Please qualify your statement!

Cheers
Simon
 
The Pro S 5w-40 can handle up to 120degC sump temps, which is far higher than most oils I know of.

Cheers
Simon
 
I have used Castrol Rs 10w-60 for 2years since i do trackdays and the oil gets very hot in the clio, up to 145 degrees! I thought a 10w-60 oil was the right oil to use when running that hot? Am i wrong? Oilcooler is next on my wishlist.
 
RPM said:
I have used Castrol Rs 10w-60 for 2years since i do trackdays and the oil gets very hot in the clio, up to 145 degrees! I thought a 10w-60 oil was the right oil to use when running that hot? Am i wrong? Oilcooler is next on my wishlist.

The Castrol RS 10w-60 is a hydrocracked mineral oil, it will buckle before a top quality ester/pao synthetic 5w-40 and definatley 10w-50.

The main problem with the 10w-60 is its just too thick for these cars, its not even mention in the handbook, SAE50 tops.

Cheers

Simon.
 
oilman said:
The Castrol RS 10w-60 is a hydrocracked mineral oil, it will buckle before a top quality ester/pao synthetic 5w-40 and definatley 10w-50.

The main problem with the 10w-60 is its just too thick for these cars, its not even mention in the handbook, SAE50 tops.

Cheers

Simon.
I'll check tomorrow for definate but 5-60 I'm sure is allowed evn ig we agree 10-40 is the most for 99.99999% of people on here.
 
  Skoda Fabia vRS
you REALLY dont need a 60 rated oil in the UK.........in most cases you dont need a 50
 
Let's get one thing clear, I supply 10w-60 and recommend it where it is appropriate for the engine or the application but conversly I caution against it's misuse!

I have debated this many times on many car forums and I know there are some that do not agree with me however I have never had a reasonable technical explanation why 10w-60 is in fact suitable, it's certainly not mentioned in the handbooks of many modern highly tuned performance cars, with the exception of some Alfa Romeos for "spirited driving" whatever that is meant supposed mean.

Explaining this is diffucult so there may be questions but I'll try my best to explain it in plain English!

Lets look at what oil specs actually mean and particularly the higher number which is in fact the oils SAE number (the "w" number is in fact the cold crank viscosity and measured in a different way) The SAE number is measured by the oils viscosity at 100degC.

Your cars require according to the manufacturers specs, sae 30, 40 and in some cases sae 50.

To attain the relevent sae number the oil has to be at 100degC (no thinner than)

SAE 30 11cst approx
SAE 40 14cst approx
SAE 50 18cst approx

Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.

As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC.

SAE 60 is in fact 24cst viscosity at 100degC!

This is 33% thicker than an sae 50, 70% thicker than an sae 40 and over 100% thicker than an sae 30!

So, what's the problem with this thickness?

Well, this is measured at 100degC and at lower temps (70-90degC) all oils are thicker than at 100degC so the problem is compounded to some extent.

The downsides of such a thick oil (when not specified) are as follows:

Additional friction, heat and wear.
A reduction of BHP at the wheels
Lower fuel consumption

The thicker the oil is the more friction and drag and the more power the engine needs to move it around the engine which inevitably translates to less at the wheels.

So, when do we spec a thicker oil?

Well, you will probably have seen us on occassions recommending a 10w-50 but only in these circumstances.

1. If the car is heavily modded and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
2. If the car is used on track and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
3. If it's required by the handbook.

Our criteria for this is based on oil temps as an sae 40 semi-synthetic can handle around 110degC for limited periods whereas a proper synthetic sae 40 can hande 120-130degC for prolonged periods due to its thermal stability.

Once you see more than say 120degC for prolonged periods an sae 50 is adviseable as it is 18cst at 100degC and still 11cst at 130degC! This is in fact the same as an sae 30 at 100degC.

More importantly at 90degC an sae 40 is 15cst, an sae 50 is 20cst and an sae 60 is 30cst!

In a worst case scenario with thick oils (when not required) is that you will experience air entrainment and cavitation inside the bearings at high RPM. Not clever stuff!

I know this is technical stuff but oil is a combination of science and engineering and few people know enough about it to make an informed choice. Just because your mates use it and have had no problems is not a good enough reason to use it, your engine would prefer and benefit from the correct oil.

Cheers
Simon
 


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