Forgot to mention it is on coilovers and has camber boltsA full super alignment is for cars with full front rear camber, caster, toe adjustment.
Unless you have camber bolts your cars only front tow adjustable. you just need anyone with a set of Dunlop gauges or the closest alignment place.
I wouldn't travel for it, I actually have tracking gauges as I got bored of driving to and from the tyre shop.. All 4 cars are front toe only, I don't need a 4 wheel laser alignment..
So I need to get it set to -1.45 degree camber and +10 toe so that's +5 toe each side ?Too much front camber for a road car,
if you want it to drive nicely on the road knock 1 degree of camber (down to 1 45) off the front and set toe out of 6-10 minutes (and lift the suspension 30mm)
Anyone know of a good place to get my geo settup near Chester who know what there doing with lowered cars ?
You're mixing up camber and caster on the sheet.Too much front camber for a road car,
if you want it to drive nicely on the road knock 1 degree of camber (down to 1 45) off the front and set toe out of 6-10 minutes (and lift the suspension 30mm)
You're right its castor I'm being thick:up:You're mixing up camber and caster on the sheet.
Those readings look fine for a road car IMO. If it's increased toe out from the readings before then it'll naturally want to follow the camber of the road more than before. It's the downside to having a more responsive front end.
why have front camber bolts? I bought some, took them to get fitted,the guy said,waste of time for the road....your left toe it way out,your trust angle should be zero..am no expert,just reading my read out,on sportlines springs. your front is like mine,my car handles like a dream..Forgot to mention it is on coilovers and has camber bolts
you seem to know what you've on about,how are my readings? haYou're mixing up camber and caster on the sheet.
Those readings look fine for a road car IMO. If it's increased toe out from the readings before then it'll naturally want to follow the camber of the road more than before. It's the downside to having a more responsive front end.
The front looks fine to me. Toe out (negative numbers) will tend to make the car want to wander and follow the road, but it gives the steering a more responsive feel. I'd say that either your alignment before was toe'd in and so you're feeling the difference now, or there's genuinely an issue somewhere. Play in ball joints and wishbones can cause the car to wander more than it should, but I'd have thought a garage would've checked for that before doing alignment!you seem to know what you've on about,how are my readings? ha
I know its a silly question ,isn't the rear toe not adjustable, its just the way the wheel sits on the hub..that's why his thrust angle is not zero, because the back wheel is out of line.hence pulling to one side .You're mixing up camber and caster on the sheet.
Those readings look fine for a road car IMO. If it's increased toe out from the readings before then it'll naturally want to follow the camber of the road more than before. It's the downside to having a more responsive front end.
the alignment before was, positive 0.16 left, positive 00.2 right. total toe was 0.19 ...rear was the same, cause it cant be adjusted ,after it was done, the car felt great..The front looks fine to me. Toe out (negative numbers) will tend to make the car want to wander and follow the road, but it gives the steering a more responsive feel. I'd say that either your alignment before was toe'd in and so you're feeling the difference now, or there's genuinely an issue somewhere. Play in ball joints and wishbones can cause the car to wander more than it should, but I'd have thought a garage would've checked for that before doing alignment!
As mentioned above, the rear isn't great, but it's rare to see a perfectly straight rear end on these anyway.
I had a new steering rack fitted and new track rod ends, so it needed a proper wheel alinement ,not just tracking..the alignment before was, positive 0.16 left, positive 00.2 right. total toe was 0.19 ...rear was the same, cause it cant be adjusted ,after it was done, the car felt great..
why is he's rear toe so far out? what could be the cause? I know the camber changes when lowered.that can be a benefit..@klm182 FFS I got mixed up between yours and the OP's posts... I was readings the OP's results sheet lol! The readings on yours look spot on tbh! The rear is pretty straight too, most rear beams aren't as straight as that from what I've seen on here, unless they've been shimmed.
I'm not sure tbh, could've taken a slight knock in the past maybe. Mine is similar though. 28 minutes toe in on the rear left, and 3 minutes on the rear right.why is he's rear toe so far out? what could be the cause? I know the camber changes when lowered.that can be a benefit..
blink motorsport, proper know how
Anyone flat flooring a car will+1 how many places put weights in the drivers seat to simulate a person while doing the setup.
Seems a lot better now but with the toe being out on the rear it does worry me a little , anyone know what sort of work is involved to correct that ? It has Michelin PS3 s all roundWeighting a car up is only required when manufacturers tell you to weight as part of the correct alignment procedure, i.e bmw, or they'll give you a ride height that the vehicle needs to be set to and then you'd weight down to match that ride height. If a vehicle has coilovers, it should be corner weighted along with alignment setup, in which case you'd need to simulate drivers weight for best results on track.
Above readings are fine and the guys at demon tweeks know what they're doing! (No i don't work for them ;-) )
What tyres have you got on?
Seems a lot better now but with the toe being out on the rear it does worry me a little , anyone know what sort of work is involved to correct that ? It has Michelin PS3 s all round
Demon Tweeks is not far from you.
What do the h@r lower it by ? I would leave the back the way it isI have mate. Had cooksports, eibachs, apex.
I have now got h@r springs and rate them above all of those for ride and looks
What do the h@r lower it by ? I would leave the back the wayI have mate. Had cooksports, eibachs, apex.
I have now got h@r springs and rate them above all of those for ride and looks
looks good , I would want mine somewhere near as low on the front as it is now so would have to go for the lowest decent spring there is . Gna have to measure mine from floor to centre of the wheel arch and seeMine with 20mm spacers on the front
£49.99 to £59.99 using a hunter hawk eye. That's demon tweeks pricesI was just talking about this today.
There's a place in hawarden that did mine a while back for £20 or £30. I thought this wasn't a bad price but I was told it was expensive. How much do people usually pay for regular alignment?